Any boat fixers in here?

That time of year. Going to bottom paint over next week or so but also need to replace my trim motor (just the motor due to rust out, not the whole unit).
I know the marina will charge about 3.2 million so was planning to go it myself.
Was just wondering if there was anyone here wanted to take it on (as paid work, of course) or wanted to rent themselves out as an instructor for a couple hours.

If he's still around, MikeM would be the guy. I know he lives down in your neck of the woods, but I haven't seen him on the site in some time. Might wish to PM him to see if he's around and willing to do it. It is fairly simple if you can get past the rust.

I've done a couple outboard trim motors, but never an I/O.....years ago, and you didn't mention what you had. Here's what I remember. Getting to the bolts could be difficult. Lift the motor all the way up. If the trim motor isn't working, there is usually a crank option to lift the motor. Now support the motor because the easiest way to get to the bolts is to pull the trim rod pin, allowing the trim motor(s) to swing forward a bit, exposing the bolts. The biggest problem I had was when the bolts on one of the jobs had Phillips heads, and I had to use an impact driver to free them up. But they were typically hex bolts and one time Allen head. If Allen head, you'll have to use a socket Allen to free them up. That little L shaped Allen you might have won't cut it. Ever motor I've done only had four bolts. Undo the bolts; tap on the motor with a hammer to free it up; and now reverse the operation putting it back together. I'd suggest cleaning the parts/bolts you're reusing and give them a litlle coat of anti seize....even the trim rod pin. This is the brand/stuff I use



You can buy it in a little tube for what you're doing. I use it like holy water on almost ever mechanical job I do, so I get the big bottle.


Oh, I forgot....you obviously need to disconnect the electrical connections.

Hope this helps....again, a fairly easy job. Sorry, I'm remember as I type....I've had more success with PB Blaster over WD40 as a penetrating lub.

My mind is still working on this.....the trim rod pins I've worked on had C-clips, aka circle clips, aka circlips....and probably some other names. It looks like the letter C with two holes at the ends. We actually called them Jesus clips because inevitably, as you're taking it off or putting it on, it slips off the special tool and goes flying somewhere into the shop, never to be found, while you yell out "Jesus". If you don't have that tool, Harbor Freight is your best bet since you'll likely only use it once, and they would be the least expensive. I just looked up the tool and they call it a Snap Ring Pliers and have a $3.99 set. If you wish to get daring, I've actually taken them off using a screwdriver and hammer hold a rag on the opposite side to catch the flying clip.

Paul,
Thanks. It’s a Merc 150 OB. Appreciate the details and will contact (attempt to) Mike, snag the lubricant, and hit HF for the tool as I do have a pin to kill. Trim motor is working, or was at the end of last season, but it’s so darn rusted that bolt access/removal is my biggest concern. I’m surprised the thing can still keep fluid pressure.
I know these jobs aren’t huge and I’m learning as I go (repairing some gel coat and drilling fiberglass as well pre-season), but, as I’m sure you know, once these things go a bit sideways 90% of the time it winds up being a downhill sled ride over glass without the sled.
Appreciate the input and will take all on board.

Mark, just looked up the Merc 150 and looks slightly different to the ones I did. The major difference is that it appears you don't have to pull the trim rod pin to get to the back two bolts. However, if it's like this video, it's Allen bolts and you'll need the Allen sockets....and I don't know if they are SAE (American) or metric.