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I do, but it just doesn't feel the same as vacuuming crushed coral or dolomite. The sand can get sucked out too easily if you don't keep an eye on it.

I know I'm weird, but I kinda miss that look sometimes. It was simple and straightforward. When the rocks got too nasty, I would just pull them all out and replace with my second set of rocks. I also miss vacuuming crushed coral. :p Just something strangely therapeutic about sucking out nasty...

Hey, I'm all for (non-disease) biodiversity in a reef tank! :p The same way I'd want to keep a mantis shrimp or cirolanids out.

Back before reefs, we used dead coral skeletons as decorations for fish only tanks (photos below). Nuisance algae would grow like crazy BUT we could do "coral changes" by swapping out the decorations with a second set of corals that had been bleached. Keeping everything nice & white. I remember...

I setup my first true reef tank sometime in the 1980s, and used all live rock to do it. (We didn't even realize back then that "dry rock" was an option.) Anyway, I put the LR in my tank, and of course there was die-off, but I think it cured in a few weeks. I knew it was safe to add fish/corals...

Everything looks good! I admire your carpentry skills. The canopy + stand have a nice, natural look to them.

Disease management - This method involves just managing the presence of diseases, instead of eradicating them. You know you have Ich/velvet, etc. in your tank or are willing to risk it by forgoing QT. Despite how strongly I advocate disease eradication these days, I employed disease management...

This article expands upon the Ich eradication vs. Ich management thread I wrote. It takes other diseases - such as Velvet, Brook, Uronema, Flukes, Bacterial Infections - into consideration; and discusses the best strategies for preventing vs. managing all pathogens commonly found in a saltwater...

I've always put mine towards the bottom, in an area of low-moderate flow. Keep their sweepers out of reach from all other corals; they will even sting frogspawn & hammers.

Might just be Lympho: Lymphocystis – Marine Fish Diseases and Treatment

1) Where are the checkpoints? There is a checkpoint along Interstate 95, 13 miles south of the Georgia border in Nassau County. There is also a checkpoint on Interstate 10 near the Florida-Alabama border. 2) How does it work? All drivers, except semi-trucks, are filtered off of the highway and...

They have checkpoints setup on the Interstate at the Florida border. If you have Louisiana plates or driver's license, they tell you to self-quarantine for 14 days. State Troopers want to know where you'll be staying in Florida so they can check on you every so many days.

I just read they are deploying 1,000 military to NYC. And I don't think they are coming there for a parade! :p I just keep telling myself, "This too shall pass." What's done is done. Hopefully we can all learn from this and better protect ourselves in the future.

Things aren't anywhere near as bad on the panhandle (where I am) as they are in the peninsula. Especially near Miami and Tampa. But I can't go back home (Louisiana) because Florida probably wouldn't let me back in. :oo: These are interesting times, old friend.

Just like a month inside the house ain't gonna kill you, the same holds true for fish in QT. ;) They'll get on with their lives once they reach the DT. Supposedly all the wholesalers are either shutting down or running out of fish, so I'd buy what you can right now if you really need a fix.

These fish in QT don't seem bothered by white:

This is worth a read: Keeping, Breeding, and Raising Saltwater Mollies

I always use calibration fluid, but afterwards double check with RODI just to see what reading I will get. It's always the same: 35ppt (calibration fluid) = 0ppt RODI. The one time the RODI reading was a little off the TDS was not 0.

Your livestock has probably just gotten used to the higher salinity. Retest after calibrating, but I recommend slowly (over a period of several days) bringing your SG down to 1.026. If for no other reason than to make life easier on any new fish/corals/inverts you add to the tank.

+1 The only thing about urchins is they are sensitive to high nitrates and changing water chemistry in general. They do best in stable aquariums.