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So cut into the red leading to the two canisters. Red line piece from three canister side goes into the port opposite of the valve handle. Then left and right from valve go into the di where the red currently goes and one goes to the drain.
You are teeing right after the ro membrane the thing playing in sideways in the pic on the clean side (test tds to find clean side). And right before the clean water goes into the di
You want the clean side of the ro membrane ( usually the blue line) to go into the port opposite the valve. Then the left and right of the valve go to drain or di canister.
So carbon every six months because it protects the membrane, sediment when you see a pressure drop of you have a gauge, and di only when your over one tds. Your wasting money replacing di before you see a tds rise.
But the reduced di flow is because you are using most of the incoming water to wash the waste side of the membrane. The issue is bad water slowly creeps to the clean side when the system is off. The flush kit does nothing for the dirty water on the clean side. The bypass clears out the dirty...
Membrane flush kits are on the waste side of the membrane and do not help much with tds creep. The flush kit and the di bypass discussed above do very different things.
Makes perfect sense, real world mileage may vary haha. Just test and see if it works out, you will probably always need a carbon source to have enough bacteria to make an impact.
Most tanks will always need a phosphate export method besides the skimmer I.e. gfo, carbon dosing, macro, algae scrubber etc. The skimmer removes dissolved organic compounds before they turn into phos and nitrate they can't remove it directly once either is in the water.
That's not strong at all, stick to 2 parts vinegar to one part vodka. And you can double Or triple the dose because vinegar is weaker by a lot than vodka.