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120g Into the Sea -- My First Saltwater Build

OK -- Its time. The stars have aligned and I have gotten out of my own way. Plus, my spouse has been won over :) I'm going to be embarking into the world of reefing.

Taking the advice I've seen I am going to outline my plans here and I welcome feedback or suggestions. I try to measure twice and cut once whenever I can.

I plan on keeping corals and a variety of fish - I'm prefer having smaller and medium sized fish for schools and pairs rather than specific large fish.The fish that have caught my eye so far: clowns (I love them), Mandarin, and tangs. As for corals - I love movement and a torch coral is what sparked me to reconsider getting into saltwater. I'm still learning about the different kinds of corals but so far torches and (strangely) green star are my faves.

On the the proposed setup -- this is where I really need some eyeballs to make sure I'm being smart in what I'm ordering. I am going with a larger tank so budget is going to be limited for more high end components. My plan is to put in the size tank I want, start basic with components/livestock, and upgrade parts overtime. Aside from where noted I have not pulled the place order trigger yet.

Tank:
120 gallon SC Aquarium - internal overflow (need to be as flush as possible) herbie style drain - Ordered and OtW

Sump:
RUBY SUMP 36 -- I'm still unsure on this one. I am fairly certain I want to go the refugium route (given then desire for mandarins) -- unsure on the proper size for my intended tank

Return Pump:
Eheim - Compacton 5000

Powerheads: Still very conflicted about what to do here
IceCap 2K GYRE FLOW PUMP WITH DUAL PUMP WIFI CONTROLLER (2000 GPH) - I was thinking a decent Gyre (or 2) could hold me over until I can upgrade to several Vortech MPs. Though I don't love the idea of wires coming out of the DT.

Heater:
250W EHEIM JAGER AQUARIUM HEATER x2

Lights:
Maxspect RAZOR X R5 200W LED FIXTURE or Aquaticlife T5 Hybrid

ATO:
Tunze OSMOLATOR UNIVERSAL 3155 AUTO TOP OFF

Skimmer:
Classic 152-S 6" Internal Protein Skimmer

RODI:
Aquatic Life 100gpd -- I already have this setup with a 35 gallon container. I'm getting 1 on my TDS meter...Do I need to add another stage or is 1 ok...

rodi.jpg
 
New tank is on a truck in CA and moving!

Also to assuage my husband's concerns we have a structural engineer coming by today to double check that the floor will support the new tank, hard wood stand, and sump. While I'm still deciding on which sump to order is a 40g suml for a 120g tank a fair estimate just for purposes of discussion with the engineer?
 
I would think that would be a safe bet. And the sump is never full with water like the display is, so you'd be buying additional safety factors with 40g as well. Plus I think they add a 200% safety factor to the overall load, so you'll be safe no matter what :)
 

deepblue68

POTM Winner
OK -- Its time. The stars have aligned and I have gotten out of my own way. Plus, my spouse has been won over :) I'm going to be embarking into the world of reefing.

Taking the advice I've seen I am going to outline my plans here and I welcome feedback or suggestions. I try to measure twice and cut once whenever I can.

I plan on keeping corals and a variety of fish - I'm prefer having smaller and medium sized fish for schools and pairs rather than specific large fish.The fish that have caught my eye so far: clowns (I love them), Mandarin, and tangs. As for corals - I love movement and a torch coral is what sparked me to reconsider getting into saltwater. I'm still learning about the different kinds of corals but so far torches and (strangely) green star are my faves.

On the the proposed setup -- this is where I really need some eyeballs to make sure I'm being smart in what I'm ordering. I am going with a larger tank so budget is going to be limited for more high end components. My plan is to put in the size tank I want, start basic with components/livestock, and upgrade parts overtime. Aside from where noted I have not pulled the place order trigger yet.

Tank:
120 gallon SC Aquarium - internal overflow (need to be as flush as possible) herbie style drain - Ordered and OtW

Sump:
RUBY SUMP 36 -- I'm still unsure on this one. I am fairly certain I want to go the refugium route (given then desire for mandarins) -- unsure on the proper size for my intended tank

Return Pump:
Eheim - Compacton 5000

Powerheads: Still very conflicted about what to do here
IceCap 2K GYRE FLOW PUMP WITH DUAL PUMP WIFI CONTROLLER (2000 GPH) - I was thinking a decent Gyre (or 2) could hold me over until I can upgrade to several Vortech MPs. Though I don't love the idea of wires coming out of the DT.

Heater:
250W EHEIM JAGER AQUARIUM HEATER x2

Lights:
Maxspect RAZOR X R5 200W LED FIXTURE or Aquaticlife T5 Hybrid

ATO:
Tunze OSMOLATOR UNIVERSAL 3155 AUTO TOP OFF

Skimmer:
Classic 152-S 6" Internal Protein Skimmer

RODI:
Aquatic Life 100gpd -- I already have this setup with a 35 gallon container. I'm getting 1 on my TDS meter...Do I need to add another stage or is 1 ok...

rodi.jpg
I would invest in a heater controller to hook your heaters too.i have a bluebird but also have used ranco controllers.
 
As far as a refugium size... it’s more about light and intensity than volume. So your sump size is fine. However. A larger one does add more volume and that’s never bad with reefing.
 
Ugh -- so we had a structural engineer come out today to check the house to assuage my husband's concerns. The engineer said we should do a significant amount of support - which wouldn't be too difficult except one side has an HVAC return and a drain pipe from the 1/2 bath. I might even be tempted to move ahead with that spot anyway but the joists run parallel with the tank there. Does anyone else have larger tanks on their first floor above a basement with parallel joists? Had any issues? Used anyone affordable to reinforce?

The other 2 options now are to put it in the entryway so it is still a visual piece for our first floor - I'm leaning to this, it would be perpendicular to multiple joists and would be easy to reinforce in the crawl space if needed. BUT there wouldn't be a place to sit and look at the tank. It would be standing only. Not what I had envisioned but still adds to the aesthetic of the house and would be accessible for maintenance, etc. The 2nd option would be to put it in the basement where we have a room that is currently our exercise room. I would move my office down there so that I get the benefit of being able to enjoy the tank in my office where I'm spending the majority of the time recently. Down there it would be on concrete and should I decide I want additional tanks in the future I have an office/fish room that can accommodate.....but then the tank isn't in a central area for others to enjoy.

I'm so torn on this....I wish I could have it in the great room but dealing with support columns and having to work around or even move plumbing is going to be way to expensive......Feeling a little disheartened but trying to find the best path forward.
 

amado

Dal
Staff member
Board of Directors
NJRC Member
My vote is always the basement.
Basement are the best for fish tanks
Salt water will damage walls / floors no matter how careful you are you will always have water on the floor.
Ato will fail and you will have water on the floor. Pumps die and you will have water on the floor.
If it’s in the Basement you can just clean it up without having any damage.

Fish tanks especially new one look really bad
When you 1st set it up. It will look bad for a long time. If you put this in the middle of the house then it becomes a problem.
If it’s in your basement nobody will care.

My tank is in the basement and I have tiles on the floor if water spill it’s no problem.

Fish rooms are awesome and you can add frag tanks or large sumps with no problem


Fish also like a peaceful low traffic location.
They are more happy with less traffic of people and noise. It’s also not good for the fish tank when you clean the house/ lights scented candle or exterminate
 
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I am not a structural engineer so what I am about to say please take with a grain of salt. I certainly am not suggesting the engineer is wrong However. If your problem is you don’t want to deal with a column. All you have to do is increase the size of the header. Fact is. There are millions of buildings with very large expanses carrying great loads. My garage is 30’ X 50’ and has no columns. And it supports a floor above with equipment. A smaller example is I have several fish tanks on the first floor of my home. And in two cases the joists are parallel. All I had to do was sister the joists and now it can handle double the load.
Now don’t get me wrong. Weight of a tank is a serious concern. And you are doing the right thing by checking with a professional. I am only pointing out that if you want the tank in a particular location. Doubling or even tripling joists will fix the problem. It is done all the time. Also. Amado is not wrong. Some day you will spill salt water. It is Inevitable. That doesn’t mean you will wreck your home. But things happen. Basement locations are ideal for several reasons. No ambient sun light messing with the tank. As discussed earlier... No need for additional support. Generally easier access to electric and plumbing. And a dozen other reasons. But non of that maters one bit if the tank isn't in a location where YOU can enjoy the beauty that it will become. And if I may be so bold. Everyone speaks of the “ugly” phase. This is the period of time that the tank goes thru attempting to reach equilibrium. There will be algae and death and diatoms. The list Is long. However I have enjoyed every phase. Never once did I consider it ugly. In fact it is amazing. Reefing is way more than just a glass box filled with some livestock from a local shop it can truly be an adventure.
 
I have a 75 gallon on the first floor but wouldn't go bigger without having a pro look at it. When I do go bigger, it will be in the basement as well (no carpet in the basement though).
 
So my neighbor is very handy - runs a business installing awnings and other things. He has a fair experience with some structural things as well, though he is not an engineer. He is convinced we can additional support using angles that would be more than sufficient.
The point about saltwater oopsies in the basement VS the hard wood on the 1st floor is also making me pause a little bit....

Ugh I'm thankful for your input guys, this is really tearing my brain and decision making capabilities up and the advice helps
 
So my neighbor is very handy - runs a business installing awnings and other things. He has a fair experience with some structural things as well, though he is not an engineer. He is convinced we can additional support using angles that would be more than sufficient.
The point about saltwater oopsies in the basement VS the hard wood on the 1st floor is also making me pause a little bit....

Ugh I'm thankful for your input guys, this is really tearing my brain and decision making capabilities up and the advice helps
Enjoy the ride. Don’t let it get to you. There are more ways to reef than one can imagine. But one fact remains constant. Nothing good happens fast. And reefing is at the top of that list
 

Jamie S

NJRC Member
So my neighbor is very handy - runs a business installing awnings and other things. He has a fair experience with some structural things as well, though he is not an engineer. He is convinced we can additional support using angles that would be more than sufficient.
The point about saltwater oopsies in the basement VS the hard wood on the 1st floor is also making me pause a little bit....

Ugh I'm thankful for your input guys, this is really tearing my brain and decision making capabilities up and the advice helps
Since your neighbor is so handy, perhaps he can cut out you’re hardwood floor under where you want the tank and he can install tile. That could help solve that concern.
 

amado

Dal
Staff member
Board of Directors
NJRC Member
Most refers don’t last past one year.
So I wouldn’t make any changes to a home for a hobby. Fish die corals die and having this happen in a living room can be a problem.
Most people leave the hobby when they have a failure. Tanks crack and leak. Heaters fail on /off. This storm last week killed a lot of people’s tanks. So I would keep it simple as possible. If you decided you don’t want a fish tank a year from now. How easy is it to go back to normal. 60 gallons of salt water can destroy your floors and walls. If this happens in the basement it’s just a mop or dry vac.

In my last home I build a 125 gallon cichlids tank ( fresh water) in the basement. I place that tank In the same room as my sump.
When my 125 gallon tank cracked in the middle of the night all 125 gallons drained to the sump.
I lost all fish but I had no damage to the house.
I got another tank and started a salt water tank.
 
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ericrodriguez

NJRC Member
Most refers don’t last past one year.
So I wouldn’t make any changes to a home for a hobby. Fish die corals die and having this happen in a living room can be a problem.
Most people leave the hobby when they have a failure. Tanks crack and leak. Heaters fail on /off. This storm last week killed a lot of people’s tanks. So I would keep it simple as possible. If you decided you don’t want a fish tank a year from now. How easy is it to go back to normal. 60 gallons of salt water can destroy your floors and walls. If this happens in the basement it’s just a mop or dry vac.

In my last home I build a 125 gallon cichlids tank ( fresh water) in the basement. I place that tank In the same room as my sump.
When my 125 gallon tank cracked in the middle of the night all 125 gallons drained to the sump.
I lost all fish but I had no damage to the house.
I got another tank and started a salt water tank.
How did your tank just cracked? A rock fall off?
 
How did your tank just cracked? A rock fall off?
There has to be a stresser of course but not all tanks are created equal. You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Just watch a you tube video of glass cutting. If glass is thin like 1/4” or less, All you have to do is scratch the glass and you can snap it. But rest assured. There are real good tanks with nice low iron thick glass. That would be difficult to break with a hammer. You just have to accept that sometimes there is a reason one tank is A lot cheaper than An other. A really good indicator for the quality of a glass box is if the tank has plastic bands or rims on the top and bottom of the tank (most box store/pet shop tanks) these are not for looks. They are there because the glass is to thin without the rim to support itself when full of water. In most cases tanks break because the plastic Trim fails leaving the glass alone to hold back the water pressure.
 
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