algae problem please help!!!!

[jceli728]

Hello guys,

I'm sort of new to this hobby and a new member of this group. I've had a FOWLR tank for about 2 years now. I have started adding soft corals to my tank, and upgraded my light to a PC 4x65w. Since then I started having a problem with a green film like algae that covers all the sand when the lights are on. I have tryed differnt things to get rid of it but nothing seems to work(water changes, less light time, red slime remover).

Couple of people at the LFS have told me to get a UV sterilizer, but I have been really doubtful about that, since the uv will only kill free floting particles. I order one anyways and i'm willing to give it a try. Please tell what else can I do to resolve the problem.

Water parameters:

salinity 1.25
Alkalinity 8-9
calcium 490
nitrate <20 after water change <10
nitrite 0
Phospahte 0

Lights 8hrs total day and atinic reverse hrs on refugium

 

[MikeNapoli]

How long has this been happening?

What are you using to test your water?

Do you have a refugium in your sump? If so are you growing any macro algae?

Haw often/much do you feed?

Are you using RODI water or Tap water?

 

[Hawkeye]

welcome to NJRC!

It sounds like the amount of nutrients introduced into the tank (food, poop etc.) is greater than the tanks' ability to extract/remove/process. The phosphate reading may be misleading since the algae growing at the bottom is probably absorbing the phosphate.

It'd be helpful if you could detail the size of the tank and the inhabitants. You say it was a FOWLR and I'm thinking you've got like panther grouper/snowflake eel/lionfish all eating like there is no tomorrow... ;D

 

[jceli728]

about 2 months. I'm using a reef test kit from LFS my sump is a refugium for macro algae. I have been using RO water and every since I started having problems with this algae I cut down the feeding to every other day. before I used to feed them every day and never had this problem.

 

[jceli728]

My main tank is a 72g bowfront reef ready, 20g sump that acts as a refugium for macro algae, i have a mag7 for a return and for water movement a saio 680 in the middle of the back glass on 24/7, 1 maxijet 1200 at each end of the tank that go on and off at 1hr intervals.

My inhabitants:

1 med size yellow tang
1 Percula Clow
1 Green Mandarin
1 small blue tang
several blue and red hermit crabs
sand shifting snails

corals
Small colony of polyps
torch coral
star polys

 

[Carlo]

You need to reduce the nutrients in the tank as already mentioned. Basically speaking if you have algae growth you have excess nutrients. Doesn't matter what a test kit tells you as the algae can use the nutrients from the water as fast as they are produced leaving nothing to test for.

It may sound like you need more live rock for bacteria processing or maybe better types of rock if you can't reduce the feeding to the point that the nutrients are processed properly.

The immediate suggestion that comes to mind is to get rid of the phosphates you have. Pick up a small reactor and run some of the white phosphate media (rinse it first well) to reduce this level to zero and then use a GFO based phosphate media to keep the phosphates low in the tank. With the white pellets like Phosguard you will want to use small amounts and change it out every 4 days. With the GFO you can leave it for a month or two depending on how well it lasts in your system.

These are "bandaids" to the nutrient problem you have. It's best to solve the problem if possible. Many reefers use these products and they are common practice but nonetheless it's best to try and solve the problem.

Also your rock is probably full of detritus and junk which doesn't help things at all. Maybe a good cleaning of all your rock is in order especially if you converted over from the FOWLR system without a thorough cleaning.

Maybe you could skim wetter to remove more stuff from the water column. Speaking of skimming what skimmer do you have? Do you have any sponge filter or bio balls in your system? Tell use more about your setup and I'm sure you'll get some valuable ideas from the members here.

Carlo

 

[Erich]

Well green algae comes from mainly.

Your lights are on for a longer than usually period of time.

If your lights are on long than 6 -8 hrs a day you may want to have the light time dialed back from currently set. Algae loves light especially if it has lots of it for a long period of time. I stagger my lighting, it maybe on for 4 -6 hours off for another 2 hours then on again for another 2hrs. Or you can have your lights turn on latter in the morning like 9 or 10am and shut off around 6 or 8pm. A UV filter is a step in the right direction for clearing out the green algae. Also I would suggest some algae eating snails to clean up the green algae.

That will be a good step in the right direction. Green Algae is not bad just not very attractive, but it is very easy to fix.

 

[Carlo]

I'd be careful about using a photoperiod like that especially with corals in the tank as it throws off their internal clock and whatnot. This type of photoperiod has been studied pretty well and it was found to not be healthy long term for the corals.

The whole lighting thing is also a bandaid just as using GFO or similar is. No amount of light will cause an algae outbreak if the nutrients aren't there to begin with.

Carlo

 

[BobCReef]

I tried once to convert a FO tank to a reef. Never could get the nutrients down. I think the problem with converting is you start out behind the 8 ball. The fish have loaded up the system with junk. its hard enough to keep nutrients down when starting at zero. don't want to discourage you just talking about my experience.

 

[Carlo]

It's usually tough but doable. Best thing in my opinion is suck out the substrate and replace it. Pull the live rock and scrub off detritus in tank water external to the tank and then put it back in.

You have a fighting chance at least if you get rid off built up detritus.

Carlo

 

[jceli728]

thank you guys for all the sugestions. I don't have any bio balls in my system at all, I'm using a truboflotor 1000 multi for a protein skimmer.

What do you gusy think about the uv sterilizer? should I add to my system? and how should I run it? many people have told me diffrent thing from don't use it, run it 24/7 and last one that I thought might be a good idea is to run it only while the lights are on so beneficial bacteria have a chance to reproduce at night.

Also is it better to have the light on my refugium on 24/7?

 

[Carlo]

Both UV & Ozone are fine (I use them) but I'd suggest spending the money elsewhere first where you can get more overall bang for the buck first. For example before I'd buy a UV I'd first upgrade to a bigger/better skimmer that will pull more out of the water which will put a much bigger dent in your nutrient problem then the UV ever will.

The lighting of the refugium question really depends on your nutrient levels and what you are growing in there. If you stick with only Cheato you have a choice. Many run 24/7 while others run the lights on opposite light schedules from the tank itself. The opposite light schedule helps keep the pH from dropping as much at night when there isn't photosynthesis going on in the main tank.

A rough suggestion would be to run it 24/7 until you can test ZERO on all the nitrogen tests and phosphate test kits and have no signs of algae. Once you get to that point drop the light schedule to running opposite. If your nutrients climb you can always go back to 24/7 again. In other words let your tank dictate to you how much it needs to run. I myself prefer 12-15 hour max on times whenever possible as you will get other fauna growing in the refugium and some of these critters will appreciate the down time as they would find in nature.

Carlo

 

[JRWOHLER]

How much live rock do you have. I agree with Carlo you don't want to mess with your corals using funky light cycles. I would start with two things mentioned. First get a turkey baster and blast the heck out of your rocks then do a good water change 25%. Then add some chemical phosphate media to obsorb some of the extra. I have read of some success with a HOT filter when you do this that really cleans what you have in short time. I would do this twice a week with our without the extra filter.

If you don't have the 1-2 lbs of LR per gallon I would work on getting some well cured live rock and building that up too.

 

[Subliminal]

It seems to me that any drastic change in this hobby just takes time to work itself out.

You went from basically a dark tank to a brightly lit tank. It's going to take a little while for your tank to work itself out. Basically, trying to keep the nutrient intake down will help, as will maintaining proper calcium/ALK/Mg levels.

But, it's still probably going to take some time.

Many have luck with the phosphate reactors as mentioned above.

 

[jceli728]

thnaks for all the help so far. I had order a UV Sterilizer, so I install it in my system anyways and it's been ther for 2 days now running 24/7. everything seems norbut but the only drastical change that i notice was that my water now is crystal clear, I always thought my water was clear but now is very clear. I have also decided to invest some money in a phosphate reactor, let me know what do you guys think about this one before I buy it.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+11586&pcatid=11586

What is the best phophate media that I should use with this one. I've read all over the place and it seems like everyone has good things to say about the reactor and the media made by two little fishes.

 

[chaoscat]

You need to reduce the nutrients in the tank as already mentioned. Basically speaking if you have algae growth you have excess nutrients. Doesn't matter what a test kit tells you as the algae can use the nutrients from the water as fast as they are produced leaving nothing to test for.

You just can't state it any plainer than that. Those words ought to be posted at the top of every reef forum everywhere. You ought to have to state it like the pledge of allegiance before you can own a reef tank.