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auto top off

I'm really getting sick of toping off my tank every day by hand and I have overflowed my barrels several times so its time.
I saw kent float switch for rodi to barrels is this the best thing to use? they said something about not for use with dual di's what are people using?
also whats a good water top off for sump? can you run all this off one unit?
trop wanted 80 bucks for float kit is this reasonable?
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
We've been using the Kent Float Valve in our RO/DI barrel for years now with no problems at all (knock on wood!). As far as a top-off mechanism for the sump, we swear by THESE. We have a few of them in different systems and they work great. I would definitely recommend them.
 
Good thread, I hope to see more responses. I'm looking to automate this also. Right now I'm torn between an auto top off and a doser and haven't quite figured out how a contoller unit like the RK2 would fit into this. Also, is it best to feed the unit directly from the RO/DI or do I need a separate container. With a doser, I could possibly dose both top off and 2 part or Kalk. While with just a auto top off, it's either RO/DI or Kalk. There are inexpensive auto top off's for under $100, but I'm hesitant because every time I've tried to save money in this hobby, I end up spending money twice.
 
Mike does the RO hook up to this float switch ? and will it turn off water from the unit? I can still tap off this to go to sump right? As you can guess I'm pretty ignorant with this stuff.
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Yes, the RO/DI hooks into that float valve and it turns your RO/DI unit on and off.

Here is how the process works: Your RO/DI water goes through the Kent Float Valve and into your Barrel. When the water level in the barrel gets to the right height, the valve raises and shuts down the flow from your RO/DI unit. You'll need a separate pump to move water from your barrel to the sump. That pump gets plugged into the outlet that is attached to the AutoTopOff float switch. When the water level in your sump drops to a defined level, the float switch activates the outlet and turns your pump on. When the water in the sump gets to the right level, the float switch shuts the pump off. Now, since you've just pulled water from your RO/DI barrel, the Kent float valve will drop and your RO/DI unit will turn on to refill the barrel. It makes top off's completely hands free and a no brainer.

The dual AutoTopOff float valve comes with a high level sensor which acts as a back-up. If the first float valve fails for any reason (it gets stuck in the low level and doesn't rise or whatever) the water will hit that high level switch and raise it and it will shut down the pump.

If you're a real "belt and suspenders" kind of guy, you can add an AquaController to the mix to make it pretty much completely error proof.

Anyway, I hope that process makes sense!
 
Another alternative (aren't there always options in this hobby?):

I have used the tunze osmolator...though when i got it - it wasn't as expensive as it is these days (you can blame the weak dollar and that it is manufactured in europe). Anyways - I have never used the two float switches - though I may look into it given the price.

Reasons why I like the osmolator: Pump is included...it's a cheapie -but does the job. The pump will shut itself off if it runs for more than 5 minutes continuously. This is "just in case" a sensor gets stuck. There are two sensors that go in the sump - one is an optical sensor. The backup is a float switch in case the optical gets dirty.

If the water reservoir for whatever reason "runs out of water" - the oz will sound a beeping alarm and the pump will shut-down and not burn itself out. It also has a simplistic monitor indicating what function is occurring (see below)

TZ4111_3.jpg


Honestly I would not leave on vacation without something I know will not flood the tank while I am away or cause an electrical fire.
 
i got one from 3 weeks ago from autotopoff.com after reading about how people swear by them on this site. i am now included in that group of people. it looks a bit intimidating at first with all the wires, but its the easiest thing to set up.
 
pgordemer does that unit really do it all no other equipment needed or do I still need auto topper unit? need a pump right. what size?
great info everyone thank you very much.
 

pgordemer

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
reeferwanabe said:
pgordemer does that unit really do it all no other equipment needed or do I still need auto topper unit? need a pump right. what size?
great info everyone thank you very much.

All you need is a pump..... I use a maxijet 1200. One of the floats us in the sump, the other one is in the 55 RO barrel. The unit will only turn on the pump if the sump is low and the RO water reserve is high. You can also set it up, so that both floats are in the sump as a low and high.

Like John, my 55 RO has a float switch to keep it filled from the RO/DI unit, and the float from the auto-topoff in the RODI keeps it off if I use too much making water for the tank to not burn out the maxijet.

As a second line of defense, I have it plugged into the aquacontroller on a 2 minute every 3 hour cycle, so if any float ever got stuck, it could never run for more than 2 minutes at a time. Its over kill, but you never know.

It works well, I have topped off anything or turned a valve manually in a few years.
 
I just have a shut off valve coming from my ro/di , and just shut it off until it drips about a drop a second into the sump. Cheap and has worked for me for about a year now. Knock on wood no floods yet ;D
 
OK just got unit in Is there anyway to extend the wire on one of these? my RO bucket is in the next room I was going to put the controller in this room then run a line to sump under tank but the wire wont reach from sump to back room.
 
I hooked up top off today runs perfect now to run the water lines. I'm using a maxijet 1200. what do you use to hook up ro line to the output or do you just put it in the venturi part of the pump? wont get full pressure this way but it would probably work. have to transition down.
 
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