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center brace on 120?

Hey everyone

just got a 120, at a great price, but with some issues. I don't mind the few scratches, but I'm worried about the center brace which is broke/missing. Is there a way to fix it or replace it. I think I can do it with a piece of acryllic, but need some instruction on how to do it. Anyone got any ideas?

edwin
 

panmanmatt

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
If there is any part of the center brace remaining, you can cut a piece of acrylic to fit then drill and tap it and use threaded nylon thumb screws to attach it to what's left of the brace.

Or if it is a standard size tank most LFS can order you a whole new top trim piece.
 
Cool MATT

I was thinking the same thing on the center brace, got to see if it's possible. If not, whatelse can be done? Also, it would be very hard to get the original trim off wouldn't it?

Any other ideas out there?

rev
 

panmanmatt

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I replaced the top trim on a 55 gallon. I just cut the old one off in pieces as I was replacing it anyway. Figured it was safer to cut the plastic in sections then risk breaking the glass.

Only other option would be to use Weldon to secure a piece of acrylic over the brace but I'm not sure how well that would hold up.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Is the "brace" plastic trim or is it a glass divider? If it is just plastic trim then it is largely cosmetic and used for holding the glass (I'd worry less about this). If it is glass I'd be inclined to try to reconstruct or replace it.
 

panmanmatt

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Phyl said:
Is the "brace" plastic trim or is it a glass divider? If it is just plastic trim then it is largely cosmetic and used for holding the glass (I'd worry less about this). If it is glass I'd be inclined to try to reconstruct or replace it.

Actually the center brace is structural. It holds the top of the tank together. Without it the front a back panes of glass would bow out from the weight of the water. This can/will lead to failure of the silicone seams causing the tank to leak and possibly blow apart over time.
 

Brian

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I've heard of people who have replaced the center brace with an acrylic strip, they left a small piece of the old brace in then drilled 2 holes in each side and screwed in (with nylon screws) a strip of acrylic.
 
I probably will replace the trim or have it replaced. I was wondering what is the pressure of the tank water , rock,sand, etc against the wall of the tank? Anybody have a idea?

As for removing the trim, what would I have to do to remove it?

Rev
 
C

concept3

Guest
If it was mine, I would get rid of the plastic trim altogether and make an All glass Eurobrace and forget the center brace- Kinda like my tank- I love the "free range" I have from above


plumb8.jpg
 
Emperor Merv,

you're da man, I love that idea, but I'm on a budget. as my wife, lol. I knew you would chime in but I thought you would answer my question on the pressure on the sides/front. Really, I need that info, can you help, anybody?

rev
 
C

concept3

Guest
Hey Rev- Gladiator, LOL


That tank was ordered that way. I had them specifically build it without the center brace since I had troubles with my last tank with clearance-

The only thing you would need to do with an existing constructed tank is to lift off the plastic brace, scrape off the silicone as they use it as the adhesive and have 4 pieces of pre-cut glass and put it together- The Eurobrace will be strong enough to keep the center glass from bowing. If the tank had one originally, it's a wise idea to put one back- Don't need all that water on your hardwood floors now right?
 
Merv,

buying the tank with the center brace misssing, just to goodof a deal to pass by. I saw a tank with a steel eurobrace, any thoughts about that? And I want to ask you a question about a venture, care to hear?

rev
 

panmanmatt

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
When I did my 55, I used a sharp knife to cut the silicone from around the top rim both inside and out. The corners is where the silicone is the thickest. After that I carefully pulled the trim up starting at one spot and working around the tank. I can tell you that it doesn't come off easily. I ended up cutting the trim in some places and taking it off in a few pieces.

After it is off use a sharp razor blade to clean off any left over silicone then clean the area with some rubbing alcohol.

To replace the new trim I ran a bead of silicone along the inside of he new trim and place it onto the tank. I inverted the tank to allow the weight of it to hold the trim in place until the silicone cured. In your case it may be easier to put some type of weights o it to hold it down.

HTH
 
thank Matt

guess I have all winter to work on this, and from what you've just said, it will take me that long, lol. I appreicate your help nonetheless. I think inverting the tank on the new frame would be ok, will consider it. Got to find the frame first. Let me see if I can find one

edwin
 

panmanmatt

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
It took me about 1 1/2 hours to do the 55. Most LFS can order you a new top trim. Just give them the dimensions of the tank, it will also help if you know who made the tank (AGA, Perfecto, or Oceanic) so they can match it exactly especially if it is anything other than a black trim.
 
cool

just asked Tom about one, I believe it's a AGA tank, but I'll double check. And thanks for saving my winter, lol. Now my wife will find something else for me to do, geez

edwin
 

panmanmatt

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
RevClyburn said:
cool

just asked Tom about one, I believe it's a AGA tank, but I'll double check. And thanks for saving my winter, lol. Now my wife will find something else for me to do, geez

edwin

You can take all winter if it'll save you from other chores. I just did mine to get it done. Had all the parts and wanted to get it on before the new one got broken too.
 
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