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Chiller question

S

sinkingbeach

I have a 1/10th hp chiller, old tank is 92g, same sump and worked really well in the summer, new tank is 175G, sump is aprox 40G, do you think this chiller can pull the temp down 3-4 degrees in mid summer, that's what was needed with the old tank? Will tank temp be higher with more volume or just take longer to cool.

thanks
 
A

AnDom1

Hi

Normally, I'd say no, but in this case you might have a good shot if.....

1...it's really just a 3-4 degree reduction you want and you can live with a display temp of 78-79 degrees;

2...the area(s) where the tank and sump are located are air conditioned to have a stable temp of about 72 degrees; and

3...there is sufficient ventilation above both the tank and sump for heat to escape coupled with strong water movement to faciliate oxygen exchange at the water surfaces. Fans as part of the lighting system would also help.

However, be prepared for the chiller to turn on/off more frequently and run for longer periods. It'll cost you more to run even with all of the above conditions met, so you might want to check that cost vs. the price of a bigger chiller.

If after getting feedback from others, you still are unsure, get a larger chiller.

Dom
 
C

Carlo

sinkingbeach said:
I have a 1/10th hp chiller, old tank is 92g, same sump and worked really well in the summer, new tank is 175G, sump is aprox 40G, do you think this chiller can pull the temp down 3-4 degrees in mid summer, that's what was needed with the old tank? Will tank temp be higher with more volume or just take longer to cool.

thanks
Click to expand...

I'd step back and take a look at what you really need to accomplish. For example are you trying to keep the temps down to a solid 78 or just trying to keep them at or under 84? If you previously pushed for 78/79 but can settle for 82/84 (not going over 84) then you may be just fine with only the 1/20. A lot has to do with ambient air temp around the tank.

Personal opinion but I think a lot of people use chillers when they aren't even needed. I like to keep temps at 82-84 in the summer and 78-79 in the winter with a slow change over period. This simulates what they would experience in the wild. 78ish (where a lot of people aim for) is on the low side of the temperature scale corals experience in the wild. A 3/4 degree change from night to day is also nothing to worry about as long as you are in the proper natural range and the corals are accustomed to it.

So it really depends on your tank and how long you've had the corals accustomed to certain temps. You could start to let them fluctuate a bit now while it's easier in the winter and then gradually raise the temps through spring so the heat of the summer has a much lower affect on them.

Did you previously run any fans over the tank or sump? Could you do this if needed to adjunct the chiller on those really hot days? There are many questions like this that could allow you to get by without a chiller. I've never used one myself even in the summer in a 3rd floor apartment that would get really hot. I instead ran my heater at night to keep my night time temps from dropping to low and then got by with a fan on the sump during the day. I'd hit the 85 degree mark at time but never had a problem with anything. Matter of fact growth was much better in the hotter temps.

So the point of this post isn't to try and tell you what to do but to point out maybe other options and maybe to get clarification on what exactly you are trying to accomplish with the use of the chiller.

Carlo
 
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