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Float switch holder
- Thread starter Bloodman
- Start date
I always love the DIY stuff, but I'm going to be brutally honest:
1. Most float switches can't get wet on the top side.....it's not a waterproof connection where the wires come in from the top. Might not short out immediately, but it will within short order.
2. There is no backup....specifically on the upper float switch. All float switches fail, and it would be best to have a second float switch slightly higher than the first, in series to the first float switch.
What I would have done is to use horizontal float switches that come with a mini bulkhead. Drill a hole in your container and install the float switch....all wires on the dry side.....no bracket needed.:
This is the kind of switch I used in my ATO container.....works great.
Otherwise, nice job in forming the acrylic holder....did you do that using your kitchen oven? And nice acrylic work in building the shelves for the float holders.
1. Most float switches can't get wet on the top side.....it's not a waterproof connection where the wires come in from the top. Might not short out immediately, but it will within short order.
2. There is no backup....specifically on the upper float switch. All float switches fail, and it would be best to have a second float switch slightly higher than the first, in series to the first float switch.
What I would have done is to use horizontal float switches that come with a mini bulkhead. Drill a hole in your container and install the float switch....all wires on the dry side.....no bracket needed.:
This is the kind of switch I used in my ATO container.....works great.
Otherwise, nice job in forming the acrylic holder....did you do that using your kitchen oven? And nice acrylic work in building the shelves for the float holders.
Excellent feedback. I like those float switches, where did you get them? I put the acrylic in front a electric portable heater for 20 minutes and it bent super easy. For failsafe, I have the ro-di entering into the container via a Kent Marine float valve. If both fail, I have my leak detector on my apex that will shut off the valve and send me an alert. If that fails, I lined the whole sump area with shower pan rubber with a floor drain. I'm scared to death of water ruining my hardwood floor.
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Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
radiata
NJRC Member
Paul,
Have you ever made any anything to proctect these switches from snails/starfish etc? If so, what did you use? If not, what might you suggest?
Thanks,
Bob
Bob, I never had a snail guard on a horizontal float switch....considering I have this in my ATO reservoir in RO/DI water....with no snails. However, on vertical float switches, I've used little plastic jars with a wide-mouth lids were I've drilled holes in the side of the plastic bottle.
The issue with horizontal switches is that they need considerable width...the drop length of the float. I have a couple plastic bottles from my 90 year old drug addicted father (legal drugs) that might work, that I could bring to the meeting this month, if you're interested.
The issue with horizontal switches is that they need considerable width...the drop length of the float. I have a couple plastic bottles from my 90 year old drug addicted father (legal drugs) that might work, that I could bring to the meeting this month, if you're interested.
RJ, two suggestions:
1. HERE's the DIY write up I did....for about $13. If interested, I could do the soldering for you....or actually assemble the whole thing if you buy the parts.
2. Option two is to pick up Aquahub's Premium kit....for $40.....still requires assembly, but no soldering.
Note with either option you still need an outlet and pump......I'd suggest Tom's Aqualifter for a pump...they cost around $15. The outlet would be less than $5.
1. HERE's the DIY write up I did....for about $13. If interested, I could do the soldering for you....or actually assemble the whole thing if you buy the parts.
2. Option two is to pick up Aquahub's Premium kit....for $40.....still requires assembly, but no soldering.
Note with either option you still need an outlet and pump......I'd suggest Tom's Aqualifter for a pump...they cost around $15. The outlet would be less than $5.