fatoldsun
NJRC Member
Digital Aquatics Reefkeeper 2 (RK II). 8 controllable outlets with the controller head unit. Includes the temp probe, cable to connect RKII with the outlets and serial cable to connect it to a computer. I'm happy to include a pH probe but it's dry and likely won't calibrate accurately.
It works great, just the LCD display is dim in direct light. You can still read it. Worked great and was super easy to program. I controlled my lights, kalk reactor, ATO, heater and cooling fans all on this (puls 1 or 2 other things). I was keeping it as a spare /to set up another tank but that's not happening for a while.
$100 cash/picked up in Moorestown
$115 paypal and shipped
And the serial cable
--**AND**--
AquaMedic Kalkwasser ‘Reactor’ KWR 1000
This is a reactor that looks more like their calcium reactor than the kalk stirrer you’ll see here in the US. They sell this version overseas more than domestically. I can’t say why. The reactor works by hyper saturating a kalk solution with a built in circulation pump. The pump intake utilizes a 10 micron filter sock to prevent clogging. I used my controller to “stir” or circulate for about 2 hours and then after 9 hours of settling the controller would kick on my ATO which stayed powered for an hour (usually did its job in about 5 minutes). This thing was fantastic but my system is too small (90g DT) to need it now that I have a calcium reactor. Running both was overkill. Before I had the calcium reactor I ran this alone and I never had to dose anything for calcium, just a little vinegar/carbon for pH – I did eventually change the controller to skip stirring when the pH was off. The reactor actually has a port to use a separate pH controller with a probe right in the solution. I didn’t use that – just relied on the tank. This kept things very stable and my coralline growth was fantastic. In some ways it was better (or at least faster) than it is now with the calcium reactor. It comes with some extras that I didn’t use like a drip counter and some small replacement parts that I ordered from AquaMedic in Germany when I replaced the filter socks described above. (Once I was paying the international shipping I ordered back-up of everything that I thought would wear out – including extra filters). I’d like $175 plus buyer pays shipping (it’s kind big and my guess is it will be about $15 to ship depending on where you are relative to NJ)
This is right after I pulled it off line
…and here it is cleaned up
Here it is in action about 24 hours after adding new kalk
A close up of the “filter-sock” a day or two after replacing the Kalk. As this accumulated kalk disappears it’s time to add new – very easy with the valve at the bottom and using a funnel into the pH port up top. You do not have to take the unit apart except to clean every 6-8 months
And at last, a stock photo
It works great, just the LCD display is dim in direct light. You can still read it. Worked great and was super easy to program. I controlled my lights, kalk reactor, ATO, heater and cooling fans all on this (puls 1 or 2 other things). I was keeping it as a spare /to set up another tank but that's not happening for a while.
$100 cash/picked up in Moorestown
$115 paypal and shipped
And the serial cable
--**AND**--
AquaMedic Kalkwasser ‘Reactor’ KWR 1000
This is a reactor that looks more like their calcium reactor than the kalk stirrer you’ll see here in the US. They sell this version overseas more than domestically. I can’t say why. The reactor works by hyper saturating a kalk solution with a built in circulation pump. The pump intake utilizes a 10 micron filter sock to prevent clogging. I used my controller to “stir” or circulate for about 2 hours and then after 9 hours of settling the controller would kick on my ATO which stayed powered for an hour (usually did its job in about 5 minutes). This thing was fantastic but my system is too small (90g DT) to need it now that I have a calcium reactor. Running both was overkill. Before I had the calcium reactor I ran this alone and I never had to dose anything for calcium, just a little vinegar/carbon for pH – I did eventually change the controller to skip stirring when the pH was off. The reactor actually has a port to use a separate pH controller with a probe right in the solution. I didn’t use that – just relied on the tank. This kept things very stable and my coralline growth was fantastic. In some ways it was better (or at least faster) than it is now with the calcium reactor. It comes with some extras that I didn’t use like a drip counter and some small replacement parts that I ordered from AquaMedic in Germany when I replaced the filter socks described above. (Once I was paying the international shipping I ordered back-up of everything that I thought would wear out – including extra filters). I’d like $175 plus buyer pays shipping (it’s kind big and my guess is it will be about $15 to ship depending on where you are relative to NJ)
This is right after I pulled it off line
…and here it is cleaned up
Here it is in action about 24 hours after adding new kalk
A close up of the “filter-sock” a day or two after replacing the Kalk. As this accumulated kalk disappears it’s time to add new – very easy with the valve at the bottom and using a funnel into the pH port up top. You do not have to take the unit apart except to clean every 6-8 months
And at last, a stock photo
