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Heaters???

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Didn't want to hi-jack Old Salty's thread. But do we really need heaters for our tanks? Most post speak about the tank getting to hot in the summer and installing a chiller or other methods to bring the temp down. Wouldn't the pumps and house temp be enough to keep the tank at a fair temp? I keep my house between 75 and 78 in the winter, between 68 and 70 in the summer. I actually took out my heater as it is old, submersible glass.
 
I have 2 heaters on min as my tank is in my basement where it is always around 68-75. If I didn't have them, my tank would definitely get too cold as it has happened during blackouts, even with my 3 halides, 2 return pumps and skimmer.

At night my tank gets down to about 78 and the heaters kick on, so yes I'd say you need heaters.

Check out the ViaAqua Titanium heater. Really like that one!
 

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Good point. I neglected the fact that some keep the tank or sump in the basement. I don't have a basement so the sump is under the tank in the stand. I plan to upgrade to 125 or 150 and was just wondering what others do. I already had an issue with a return pump in which the wire cassing slid off and exposed wires.
 
Exposed wires :eek: Thats a perfect example for why you should have a grounding probe!!

Also as you get into bigger tank and bigger sumps...the surface area increases. As the surface area increases the tank will cool off a lot quicker through evaporative cooling.
 
Heaters are always a plus in keeping temperature on point as possible. I always have mine on and plugged in even in the summer with a set point of 74 degrees just in case the tank drops to that level from air conditioning and colder days/nights when I open the windows.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Having two Mag pumps, a 24 and a 9.5, and with the lights on, my heater does not come on.  But at night, when the lights are off, it does.






9supratt4 said:
Exposed wires :eek:  Thats a perfect example for why you should have a grounding probe!!

We've had this discussion before, but grounding probes only protect you.  They actually could be the cause of killing off your fish.  By providing a completed circuit for the electricity, it will now flow through your tank, killing your fish.  Without it, no completed circuit =  live fish...and for you, hopefully only a tingle when you put your hands in the tank.
 
Mike and I use heaters in our Nanos. We find that our little tanks are very sensitive to changes in temp. We have a halide on the 30g. The heater turns off when the halide starts running, and turns back on after the halide turns off. Without a heater on, we have swings in temp in this tank.

For the 20g, which has t5s, and for the 12g, which as PC's, we do not use a heater in the summer. We need the heater in all tanks in the winter. . . the 12g can drop to 70 degrees without it, and the 20g hovers around 74 without it.
 
redfishbluefish said:
We've had this discussion before, but grounding probes only protect you. They actually could be the cause of killing off your fish. By providing a completed circuit for the electricity, it will now flow through your tank, killing your fish. Without it, no completed circuit = live fish...and for you, hopefully only a tingle when you put your hands in the tank.

That is quite interesting. I know the groud probe is for your safety, but I never thought about having a completed circuit and the effect on the tank.

Now, what if all the electrical equipment was in the sump and the ground probe was in the sump as well?? Would that keep the electric out of the DT?
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
With the water all touching, I'd think it would have the same effect. I know we feel the tingle no matter what body of water we put our hand into when the system is running and something is zapping.
 
I use heaters since mine is the basement and tons of Surface area. just look at anything metal down there.. Rusted like crazy!
 
with an open top, several low wattage powerheads and an external return/skimmer pump - i definitely need heaters in the winter. In the summer i unplug the heaters.
 

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Okay. I am convinced I need a heater based on the responses. How should I determine what size heater? My 300 watt caused much evaporation when it was on. I have a 75g DT with a 30g sump. Is it overall water volume, DT volume, sump?
 
I went with 2 200 watt heaters for my 75 with 20 sump. Wanted it be even, and have a backup if one fails. Got 2 marineland stealths off of tbaquatics.com
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Your heater shouldn't cause evap. Generally speaking the heat in your house (dry forced hot air heat?) or fans over the sump are what causes the evaporation. What makes you think it was the heater? You would have to have heated the tank to steaming to cause evap by heating the water.

Gallons * 4 @ 2 heaters. Sounds like what John ended up with as well. You want the heater slightly oversized for the volume or it will have to work long and hard to get/keep the water at temp. You could always keep the temp set to around 75 to reduce your heating expenses.
 

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Phyl,
It Just seemed that way. Whenever the heater was on the water in the sump to need more and frequent top off. Time of year didn't matter. Maybe it was just perception. Thanks for the formula.

Mark
 
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