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laying eggs
- Thread starter Olivier
- Start date
I would wait for phil to chime in, cause hes got me beat on success rates. Granted my clowns dont readily breed as much as ocellaris and percs.
I would at first let them keep going since they need a couple clutches to get good at it and produce a raisable clutch.
I would at first let them keep going since they need a couple clutches to get good at it and produce a raisable clutch.
congrats! take pics of the parents as undoubtedly people will ask once you start raising them!
thanks for the compliment barry - but most of my success is probably due to pure luck.
Are the eggs being laid on something that can be removed from the tank?
if so - there a few techniques on mofib that talk about removing the eggs and trying to hatch them in a separate tank with an aerator. Some people use a people of tile/slate to coax the clowns to lay there in order to remove the eggs for ideal hatch rates.
other people - including i believe sanjay joshi - use the scoop method. Which is to wait for the eggs to mature in the DT and let the parents maintain the eggs and scoop the fry out when they hatch around the 7th or 8th day or so.
If you choose the "scoop" method there is always a risk that they do not hatch when you are ready to scoop. If you want to reduce the risk of you being asleep whent hey hatch - you could make your own "fry catcher" or purchase one from Marine Depot or something. It's basically a contraption that has a light (fry attracted to light) and a water pump with a screen (preventing fry from getting sucked in). I've seen DIY devices and am told they work great - plus you get a nice night's sleep instead of bleary eyed from catching.
thanks for the compliment barry - but most of my success is probably due to pure luck.
Are the eggs being laid on something that can be removed from the tank?
if so - there a few techniques on mofib that talk about removing the eggs and trying to hatch them in a separate tank with an aerator. Some people use a people of tile/slate to coax the clowns to lay there in order to remove the eggs for ideal hatch rates.
other people - including i believe sanjay joshi - use the scoop method. Which is to wait for the eggs to mature in the DT and let the parents maintain the eggs and scoop the fry out when they hatch around the 7th or 8th day or so.
If you choose the "scoop" method there is always a risk that they do not hatch when you are ready to scoop. If you want to reduce the risk of you being asleep whent hey hatch - you could make your own "fry catcher" or purchase one from Marine Depot or something. It's basically a contraption that has a light (fry attracted to light) and a water pump with a screen (preventing fry from getting sucked in). I've seen DIY devices and am told they work great - plus you get a nice night's sleep instead of bleary eyed from catching.
So if i sum up the equipment needs - it's some kind of fry catcher on day 8.
Then a small tank to place the fry in. You should have at least 50% of that water from the DT. Use an aerator - a rigid line is nice but plastic will do. I typically just let it bubble gently. A heater is probably not needed unless you keep your house very cold. however a usual setup for me will have a heater set at 78, a cheap glass thermometer and an ammonia badge. In the regular light fixture I cover it up maybe 50% so as not to blind the fry. Only when they are maybe 30 days old do I remove the covering.
The biggest step though will be setting up the rotifer culture. Unfortunately your eggs will hatch before the meeting date - otherwise I would bring you a bucket load of rots. If you can come up here or meet me - I can provide you some to get started on. You will want to get some type of phyto to feed the rotifers. For the rotifier bucket - an old salt bucket with a rigid tube for air will work.
If all this is not too difficult, it's relatively easy after that. Water changes, adding a sponge filter after day 5 or so and start weaning the fry off of live food onto dry food.
Then a small tank to place the fry in. You should have at least 50% of that water from the DT. Use an aerator - a rigid line is nice but plastic will do. I typically just let it bubble gently. A heater is probably not needed unless you keep your house very cold. however a usual setup for me will have a heater set at 78, a cheap glass thermometer and an ammonia badge. In the regular light fixture I cover it up maybe 50% so as not to blind the fry. Only when they are maybe 30 days old do I remove the covering.
The biggest step though will be setting up the rotifer culture. Unfortunately your eggs will hatch before the meeting date - otherwise I would bring you a bucket load of rots. If you can come up here or meet me - I can provide you some to get started on. You will want to get some type of phyto to feed the rotifers. For the rotifier bucket - an old salt bucket with a rigid tube for air will work.
If all this is not too difficult, it's relatively easy after that. Water changes, adding a sponge filter after day 5 or so and start weaning the fry off of live food onto dry food.
