Can someone tell me about media....i bought floss..phosgard..chemipure blue...and purigen...im taking the foam out..carbon..and bioballs that came with the fluval evo..and replacing it with the above..is that correct. I do all 3 things at the same time. To reduce algae..and hopefully more healthier for the corals...do i run the skimmer with it? Or wait. Any info would be helpful. Its all coming tomorrow
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Media??
- Thread starter Ruth C Lewis
- Start date
Is this on a running tank? if so you just took out part of your good bats. There was good bat growing on the bioballs and foam. Your tank might have a mini cycle cause of this change.
I personally never ran chemipure, phosgard, or purigen so I can't speak on those. On my 54 I ran gfo and carbon. my 36 I am running just carbon and a filter pad (tank still new so not sure what kind of issues, if any, I will have) Some of these chems help reduce algae but you might want to try and find out the cause of your algae. Do you have enough flow to keep stuff from steading? Are you lights on too long, too bright? Do you over feed? Those are just some questions to ask to see if your algae issue coming from anything like those. Good luck and keep us posted.
I personally never ran chemipure, phosgard, or purigen so I can't speak on those. On my 54 I ran gfo and carbon. my 36 I am running just carbon and a filter pad (tank still new so not sure what kind of issues, if any, I will have) Some of these chems help reduce algae but you might want to try and find out the cause of your algae. Do you have enough flow to keep stuff from steading? Are you lights on too long, too bright? Do you over feed? Those are just some questions to ask to see if your algae issue coming from anything like those. Good luck and keep us posted.
Testing is key.
Water needs a ton of elements in it to keep everything healthy and happy, as I'm sure you know.
Floss is easy, I run it all the time in all tanks at the top layer of my filters.
It collects garbage and cr@p.
It should be changed OFTEN, I change mine every 1-2 days, as anything left in it decays.
Its an easy form of mechanical filtration and is cheap to boot.
You can use it all the time.
Purigen is a synthetic that will help reduce Nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia - basically the end 'fish waste' cycle.
The fish produce ammonia, which kills fish.
Bacteria convert ammonia to less harmful nitrIte.
Another bacteria converts nitrIte to nitrAte.
NITRATE is used by plants (eg corals) in the tank, which is good.
BUT, too much nitrAte is bad as it causes algae growth.
So, test and measure. If ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are high, Purigen may help.
Chemipure (or blue) is a mix of carbon and materials designed to remove odors, silicates, and phosphates.
Phosphates, like nitrate, are used by plants (eg coral) to grow, again, good.
Too much phosphate also, probably more so than anything else, encourages algae.
Phosphates are increased by dissolved organics - overfeeding, not changing filter floss or filter media, etc.
Again, needed for tank in minimal levels.
Fish do NOT need to eat much, think of what you think a fish needs and subtract about 75%.
Also, a clean up crew (CUC) of snails and/or crabs help deal with left over food to prevent the phosphate buildup.
BUT, that does encourage more poop in the tank, and back to the above nitrogen cycle stuff.
So, test. If Phosphates are high, Chemipure may help.
Phosguard removes silicates and phosphates.
See Chemipure above - it does the same thing but isn't as effective as removing odors.
Removing odors is the job of carbon, which also helps keep the water clean ('polished').
Chemipure contains carbon and Phosguard doesn't.
Note 1) Algae is everywhere in the sea. It is a natural occurrance and some algae in a tank is normal. ITs when we let the parameters get out of control that it becomes a nuisance.
Note 2) The only reason algae gets out of control is that we don't use RODI water, overfeed, don't filter enough (protein skimmers are requirements on larger systems), or don't do enough water changes (which dilutes all bad stuff)
Note 3) If you have perfectly clear water, and are running a number of chemicals at once, your water will look great but your livestock will suffer severely. Impurities are required in the aquarium, keeping them in balance is what we're here for.
Note 4) Proper flow in an aquarium will help distribute nutrients, bring detrius to the filter/skimmer, and keep algae from getting a foothold on your rocks.
Note 5) An option not mentioned above, and if you have a sump or fuge, is to grow something like chaetomorphia (chaeto), a plant which will naturally absorb a lot of the extra nutrients that would usually be used by algae, but thats a topic in itself
So, that aside, my 2c.
NORMALLY...
In my 25g IM shallow reef I have #30 of rock.
I run a modified Sicce 1.0 return pump (250gph) and an AquaClear 30 (150gph) for a constant 400gph flow to the surface and front glass (which is appx 20x flow).
I run 2 multi level filters (common on Innovative Marine tanks). It has 3 levels.
It looks like, no, it is, this...
I use floss on the top, where the water enters, which I change every 1-2 days.
I use a small bag of carbon in the middle. Carbon 'polishes' the water and removes odor. Carbon also reduces oxygen, which is bad, so don't go overboard on it, use recommended amounts.
In the bottom of one of them I use a chunk of Amazon.com : CerMedia MarinePure Plate Bio-Filter Media for Marine and Freshwater Aquariums, 8 by 8 by 1-Inch : Pet Supplies to add 'live rock' surface area artificially.
As I feed a bit heavy, I use a small amount of Phosguard (in a bag) on the bottom of the second one sometimes if my algae is starting to get out of control (note I expect some normal algae).
Water passes out the bottom of these to another chamber, where I have a protein skimmer, which I clean every few days.
I do a 10% water change per week.
IN AN ALGAE OUTBREAK (I have a small red outbreak now)...
I have floss on top, changed daily.
I use a turkey baster to blow off the rocks daily, sometimes 2-3 times a day.
I add Phosguard mixed in the middle chamber of one of them with the carbon (this replicates Chemipure (somewhat)). When algae subsides I will reduce or remove the Phosguard.
I replaced the Phosguard in the second unit with Purigen as the 'big gun' to wipe excess ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, which I will remove after a few days as to not to strip out too many nutrients.
I am doing a 10% water change 2x per week.
To add to flow I've just added a Hydor wavesmart controller and 2 hydor 240gph powerheads, so, at times, tank flow may be up to 650gph+ with alternating currents ( 30x+ flow). This overshoots the 10-20x flow rule (where I should have max of 500gph) and the corals and fish are loving it. This is now a new standard in the tank.
So...
Get a good test kit.
Assuming the bioballs aren't dried out, and you can keep some in the tank/sump/filter (even in a mesh bag), this will help keep things stable. Then remove bioballs in a few weeks.
Dont't use too much of anything or you'll strip your water bare.
Flow is good.
Be patient.
Hope some of this helps.
Also, much of my advice is usually garbage, but I'll give it a try none-the-less.
Water needs a ton of elements in it to keep everything healthy and happy, as I'm sure you know.
Floss is easy, I run it all the time in all tanks at the top layer of my filters.
It collects garbage and cr@p.
It should be changed OFTEN, I change mine every 1-2 days, as anything left in it decays.
Its an easy form of mechanical filtration and is cheap to boot.
You can use it all the time.
Purigen is a synthetic that will help reduce Nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia - basically the end 'fish waste' cycle.
The fish produce ammonia, which kills fish.
Bacteria convert ammonia to less harmful nitrIte.
Another bacteria converts nitrIte to nitrAte.
NITRATE is used by plants (eg corals) in the tank, which is good.
BUT, too much nitrAte is bad as it causes algae growth.
So, test and measure. If ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are high, Purigen may help.
Chemipure (or blue) is a mix of carbon and materials designed to remove odors, silicates, and phosphates.
Phosphates, like nitrate, are used by plants (eg coral) to grow, again, good.
Too much phosphate also, probably more so than anything else, encourages algae.
Phosphates are increased by dissolved organics - overfeeding, not changing filter floss or filter media, etc.
Again, needed for tank in minimal levels.
Fish do NOT need to eat much, think of what you think a fish needs and subtract about 75%.
Also, a clean up crew (CUC) of snails and/or crabs help deal with left over food to prevent the phosphate buildup.
BUT, that does encourage more poop in the tank, and back to the above nitrogen cycle stuff.
So, test. If Phosphates are high, Chemipure may help.
Phosguard removes silicates and phosphates.
See Chemipure above - it does the same thing but isn't as effective as removing odors.
Removing odors is the job of carbon, which also helps keep the water clean ('polished').
Chemipure contains carbon and Phosguard doesn't.
Note 1) Algae is everywhere in the sea. It is a natural occurrance and some algae in a tank is normal. ITs when we let the parameters get out of control that it becomes a nuisance.
Note 2) The only reason algae gets out of control is that we don't use RODI water, overfeed, don't filter enough (protein skimmers are requirements on larger systems), or don't do enough water changes (which dilutes all bad stuff)
Note 3) If you have perfectly clear water, and are running a number of chemicals at once, your water will look great but your livestock will suffer severely. Impurities are required in the aquarium, keeping them in balance is what we're here for.
Note 4) Proper flow in an aquarium will help distribute nutrients, bring detrius to the filter/skimmer, and keep algae from getting a foothold on your rocks.
Note 5) An option not mentioned above, and if you have a sump or fuge, is to grow something like chaetomorphia (chaeto), a plant which will naturally absorb a lot of the extra nutrients that would usually be used by algae, but thats a topic in itself
So, that aside, my 2c.
NORMALLY...
In my 25g IM shallow reef I have #30 of rock.
I run a modified Sicce 1.0 return pump (250gph) and an AquaClear 30 (150gph) for a constant 400gph flow to the surface and front glass (which is appx 20x flow).
I run 2 multi level filters (common on Innovative Marine tanks). It has 3 levels.
It looks like, no, it is, this...
I use floss on the top, where the water enters, which I change every 1-2 days.
I use a small bag of carbon in the middle. Carbon 'polishes' the water and removes odor. Carbon also reduces oxygen, which is bad, so don't go overboard on it, use recommended amounts.
In the bottom of one of them I use a chunk of Amazon.com : CerMedia MarinePure Plate Bio-Filter Media for Marine and Freshwater Aquariums, 8 by 8 by 1-Inch : Pet Supplies to add 'live rock' surface area artificially.
As I feed a bit heavy, I use a small amount of Phosguard (in a bag) on the bottom of the second one sometimes if my algae is starting to get out of control (note I expect some normal algae).
Water passes out the bottom of these to another chamber, where I have a protein skimmer, which I clean every few days.
I do a 10% water change per week.
IN AN ALGAE OUTBREAK (I have a small red outbreak now)...
I have floss on top, changed daily.
I use a turkey baster to blow off the rocks daily, sometimes 2-3 times a day.
I add Phosguard mixed in the middle chamber of one of them with the carbon (this replicates Chemipure (somewhat)). When algae subsides I will reduce or remove the Phosguard.
I replaced the Phosguard in the second unit with Purigen as the 'big gun' to wipe excess ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, which I will remove after a few days as to not to strip out too many nutrients.
I am doing a 10% water change 2x per week.
To add to flow I've just added a Hydor wavesmart controller and 2 hydor 240gph powerheads, so, at times, tank flow may be up to 650gph+ with alternating currents ( 30x+ flow). This overshoots the 10-20x flow rule (where I should have max of 500gph) and the corals and fish are loving it. This is now a new standard in the tank.
So...
Get a good test kit.
Assuming the bioballs aren't dried out, and you can keep some in the tank/sump/filter (even in a mesh bag), this will help keep things stable. Then remove bioballs in a few weeks.
Dont't use too much of anything or you'll strip your water bare.
Flow is good.
Be patient.
Hope some of this helps.
Also, much of my advice is usually garbage, but I'll give it a try none-the-less.
Last edited:
Lol... (the last line) but pretty much im keeping everything looking good but zoas..after i found hydroids...so on and on from there...i feed a quarter of a pinch of flake for 3 fish...couple squirts of frozen swapped out on weekends. Water changes. Ro used. 10% 1 or 2 days a week. After feeding on weekends about 20 %. My mistake newbie here of course was i didnt dip the zoas and was feeding them heavy. I upgraded today with a blenny..2 peppermints. And a six line .... with 2 small turbos. I dont like snails but i think i need them...i know overload! Heres my tank nowTesting is key.
Water needs a ton of elements in it to keep everything healthy and happy, as I'm sure you know.
Floss is easy, I run it all the time in all tanks at the top layer of my filters.
It collects garbage and cr@p.
It should be changed OFTEN, I change mine every 1-2 days, as anything left in it decays.
Its an easy form of mechanical filtration and is cheap to boot.
You can use it all the time.
Purigen is a synthetic that will help reduce Nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia - basically the end 'fish waste' cycle.
The fish produce ammonia, which kills fish.
Bacteria convert ammonia to less harmful nitrIte.
Another bacteria converts nitrIte to nitrAte.
NITRATE is used by plants (eg corals) in the tank, which is good.
BUT, too much nitrAte is bad as it causes algae growth.
So, test and measure. If ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are high, Purigen may help.
Chemipure (or blue) is a mix of carbon and materials designed to remove odors, silicates, and phosphates.
Phosphates, like nitrate, are used by plants (eg coral) to grow, again, good.
Too much phosphate also, probably more so than anything else, encourages algae.
Phosphates are increased by dissolved organics - overfeeding, not changing filter floss or filter media, etc.
Again, needed for tank in minimal levels.
Fish do NOT need to eat much, think of what you think a fish needs and subtract about 75%.
Also, a clean up crew (CUC) of snails and/or crabs help deal with left over food to prevent the phosphate buildup.
BUT, that does encourage more poop in the tank, and back to the above nitrogen cycle stuff.
So, test. If Phosphates are high, Chemipure may help.
Phosguard removes silicates and phosphates.
See Chemipure above - it does the same thing but isn't as effective as removing odors.
Removing odors is the job of carbon, which also helps keep the water clean ('polished').
Chemipure contains carbon and Phosguard doesn't.
Note 1) Algae is everywhere in the sea. It is a natural occurrance and some algae in a tank is normal. ITs when we let the parameters get out of control that it becomes a nuisance.
Note 2) The only reason algae gets out of control is that we don't use RODI water, overfeed, don't filter enough (protein skimmers are requirements on larger systems), or don't do enough water changes (which dilutes all bad stuff)
Note 3) If you have perfectly clear water, and are running a number of chemicals at once, your water will look great but your livestock will suffer severely. Impurities are required in the aquarium, keeping them in balance is what we're here for.
Note 4) Proper flow in an aquarium will help distribute nutrients, bring detrius to the filter/skimmer, and keep algae from getting a foothold on your rocks.
Note 5) An option not mentioned above, and if you have a sump or fuge, is to grow something like chaetomorphia (chaeto), a plant which will naturally absorb a lot of the extra nutrients that would usually be used by algae, but thats a topic in itself
So, that aside, my 2c.
NORMALLY...
In my 25g IM shallow reef I have #30 of rock.
I run a modified Sicce 1.0 return pump (250gph) and an AquaClear 30 (150gph) for a constant 400gph flow to the surface and front glass (which is appx 20x flow).
I run 2 multi level filters (common on Innovative Marine tanks). It has 3 levels.
It looks like, no, it is, this...
I use floss on the top, where the water enters, which I change every 1-2 days.
I use a small bag of carbon in the middle. Carbon 'polishes' the water and removes odor. Carbon also reduces oxygen, which is bad, so don't go overboard on it, use recommended amounts.
In the bottom of one of them I use a chunk of Amazon.com : CerMedia MarinePure Plate Bio-Filter Media for Marine and Freshwater Aquariums, 8 by 8 by 1-Inch : Pet Supplies to add 'live rock' surface area artificially.
As I feed a bit heavy, I use a small amount of Phosguard (in a bag) on the bottom of the second one sometimes if my algae is starting to get out of control (note I expect some normal algae).
Water passes out the bottom of these to another chamber, where I have a protein skimmer, which I clean every few days.
I do a 10% water change per week.
IN AN ALGAE OUTBREAK (I have a small red outbreak now)...
I have floss on top, changed daily.
I use a turkey baster to blow off the rocks daily, sometimes 2-3 times a day.
I add Phosguard mixed in the middle chamber of one of them with the carbon (this replicates Chemipure (somewhat)). When algae subsides I will reduce or remove the Phosguard.
I replaced the Phosguard in the second unit with Purigen as the 'big gun' to wipe excess ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, which I will remove after a few days as to not to strip out too many nutrients.
I am doing a 10% water change 2x per week.
To add to flow I've just added a Hydor wavesmart controller and 2 hydor 240gph powerheads, so, at times, tank flow may be up to 650gph+ with alternating currents ( 30x+ flow). This overshoots the 10-20x flow rule (where I should have max of 500gph) and the corals and fish are loving it. This is now a new standard in the tank.
So...
Get a good test kit.
Assuming the bioballs aren't dried out, and you can keep some in the tank/sump/filter (even in a mesh bag), this will help keep things stable. Then remove bioballs in a few weeks.
Dont't use too much of anything or you'll strip your water bare.
Flow is good.
Be patient.
Hope some of this helps.
Also, much of my advice is usually garbage, but I'll give it a try none-the-less.
Attachments
Oh btw i need a better test kit but everything was good except for nitrites a bit high. Nitrates were good
Well i do have alot of that. After my tank is good ill feed him
Oops sry mark. But i saved all your info. Got the bios back.i heard on other forums that it collects the diatris and is bad
Tank doesn't seem too bad off. I would definitely recommend floss to try and get out some of that free floating debris and algae bloom. The floss as someone said is cheap and effective, and can be changed daily to keep it grabbing as much as possible. Some might even recommend a sterilizer.
Try one media at a time though. No sense in spending alot of money on all 3 when just 1 of them may do the trick.
Personally I've had good luck with chemipure blue. Used in in response to an algae bloom and cloudy water. My floss was dirty after literally an hour and was changing it daily. After 2 days I noticed a significant increase in water clarity and less free floating algae.
Try one media at a time though. No sense in spending alot of money on all 3 when just 1 of them may do the trick.
Personally I've had good luck with chemipure blue. Used in in response to an algae bloom and cloudy water. My floss was dirty after literally an hour and was changing it daily. After 2 days I noticed a significant increase in water clarity and less free floating algae.