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Mickey's Reef

M

mickeysreef <*))))<

NJRC Member
yeah will go with goodair's advice and get that ph neutralizer. i'm going to buttress the top and bottom of stand with 3/4 or 15/16 ply (glued and screwed!) and insert 2x6 and 2x4 corners up and down behind original supports. and then on the bottom, i'll have 2x6 ground contact legs going across the short span. idk how many i can fit in 6' but i may leave just a couple inches between each. that should raise the height of the stand by almost 4 inches

the only thing im wondering about is if i should cut one of the original supports out and fit a larger sump in there. i feel like i dont really need it. i'm not a big believer in monster sumps. im more of a tool for the job guy. so i have a 40g sump with built in refugium. i can fit a sock or maybe a roller mat (will have to measure to be sure about the roller), and a skimmer, return and refugium. now i do plan on adding a second skimmer in another tank down there but that will just be a small tank, like maybe a raised 10g. and by going with a smaller sump, i'll have a lot of space like for instance i can have a large ATO container - or if i wanted to add a scrubber or maybe even a frag grow out tray. something to think about down the line. (thanks for the idea HN!)

The nice thing is that since the stand is in the middle of the room, i can get under it from both sides, so i have to build doors for what is normally just the open back.

whats awesome is i have a tiny pantry a few feet from the tank that im going to convert into a water closet. i'll be able to keep rodi or mixed in there. too bad theres only enough room for one container. maybe i can make a custom container like a stacked washing machine but stacked water bins.
 
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M

mickeysreef <*))))<

NJRC Member
this is the pantry I've been given permission to take over. basically because I'm building a new kitchen on the other side of the house and it be a very far walk to get over here for a can of beans.

and I'm thinking that a stand made from steel could be the solution to carry the weight of the vertical mixing station.

the door on directly left is going to be closed and the door directly right is going to get opened up
 

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Mike S

I usually lean towards a larger sump when considering how much water will drain back into it if your return pump goes off. I’d do some calculations to figure out how much water will drain out of your display into your sump factoring in how much water is already in it. My display is slightly larger than yours. My sump is 80 gallons and it can fill to the top when everything drains back into it.
 
M

mickeysreef <*))))<

NJRC Member
primer is down just not around windows. lots of oil seeping through. the rafters were painted with an oil base brown. like 50 years ago so oil isn't that bad but still coming through. oil in wood paneling on walls is also seeping through.

the front room we painted was exactly the same. I did like 5+ coats of primer before I gave up. went back a few months later and primer finally turned everything white. don't think I need 5 coats (hopefully not) just think I need to let it dry real good. I'll get at those windows in a few days - they need a light sanding- in the meantime I'll start to work on tank and stand. will revisit the walls and ceilings in maybe 2 or 3 weeks.
 
Hockeynut

Hockeynut

NJRC Member
mickey said:
primer is down just not around windows. lots of oil seeping through. the rafters were painted with an oil base brown. like 50 years ago so oil isn't that bad but still coming through. oil in wood paneling on walls is also seeping through.

the front room we painted was exactly the same. I did like 5+ coats of primer before I gave up. went back a few months later and primer finally turned everything white. don't think I need 5 coats (hopefully not) just think I need to let it dry real good. I'll get at those windows in a few days - they need a light sanding- in the meantime I'll start to work on tank and stand. will revisit the walls and ceilings in maybe 2 or 3 weeks.
Click to expand...
You have to use Bin primer, and not the blue can water based one. You need the red label can which is shilack based. Will kill it in one coat.
 
M

mickeysreef <*))))<

NJRC Member
Hockeynut said:
You have to use Bin primer, and not the blue can water based one. You need the red label can which is shilack based. Will kill it in one coat.
Click to expand...
we tried using killz oil red can in another room and to begin with it was way too much clean up on my paint gun. extremely difficult to shoot as well. lastly it was the same situation with the bleeding and multiple coats. I have like a whole 5g can if someone wants to buy. lol

I'm using bullseye with the paint gun and the finish is perfect. I will report back in a week or 2 on the second coat
 
Hockeynut

Hockeynut

NJRC Member
mickey said:
we tried using killz oil red can in another room and to begin with it was way too much clean up on my paint gun. extremely difficult to shoot as well. lastly it was the same situation with the bleeding and multiple coats. I have like a whole 5g can if someone wants to buy. lol

I'm using bullseye with the paint gun and the finish is perfect. I will report back in a week or 2 on the second coat
Click to expand...
Yea I don’t ever shoot it always roll and brush. Probably to thin with the gun.
 
M

mickeysreef <*))))<

NJRC Member
so have been giving a lot of thought to lighting solutions. I was set to go with the radions or kessil. leaning more towards radions but the $5000+ price tag has motivated me to look into other options. I'd just buy that 600g tank if I had 5 grand laying around like that.

I'll be ordering lights straight from China, they will be a lot like the reef brite or oraphek reef bar type models. essentially LED t5 style. have options like 60,90,120 degree lenses, .5,3
,5 watt bulbs - color selection, wifi dimming.

my only real big question is whether I should get 3 banks of 36" long lights or go with the longer 60" lights. right now I'm leaning towards the 36 for access reasons.

I'm also thinking like 4 to 6 lights per bank using 36". if I go with the 3w bulbs, that would be 24x3w. I'm guessing like 75w a unit. 75w x 16 units equals 1200w. xr15 are 100w and I was thinking at least 9 to 12.

I'm thinking to avoid the 5w and avoid potential heat problems since these don't have fans. 90 degree lenses would shoot those lights straight down into the 27"

I'm guessing these set up will run me about $300 with shipping. well see though, it's be a great deal even if it ran $1000

another good thing is I can ask them to throw in additional120 degree lenses and change out individual lenses for wider spread say for lights in the center of the tank
 

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mickeysreef <*))))<

NJRC Member
she bumped the price on me to a bit over $1000 but im out, not because the price is outrageous but because she confirmed specs with me prior to purchase and i did purchase at a lower price. so waiting on a refund and looking for a new seller. im sure the lights from her company are fine, probably even worth the 1000 but i would rather deal with someone more knowledgeable on their products.
 
M

mickeysreef <*))))<

NJRC Member
i got into prepping the stand for primer and ive decided to build a new one. doesnt make sense to brace up the old one and probably not even possible. i will save a few pieces of trim and maybe the doors (probably the doors are too small) to keep the good juju but im open to design ideas. right now im thinking a doubled up 2x6 design for top, bottom frames, legs and braces. extras i am considering are 4x4 legs and 12" ledges along the long sides

if i build a taller stand i can also get a taller sump in but im not positive i would use a bigger sump. anyway i'll have the option of adding it down the line
 
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