Anyone use ozone with an ASM skimmer? I am attempting to using a T fitting on the air intake, but I get the smell of residual ozone in the air. Am I better off getting a cheap second skimmer to run the ozone? If so any recommendations?
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Ozone & ASM Skimmers
- Thread starter 120gallons
- Start date
I run Ozone through my ASM G-3 skimmer. After trying several different ways, the only way I was able to get rid of the smell was to attach the output of the generator directly to the air input of the skimmer. The skimmer draws all it air through the generator. Buy using an air pump (Coralife Luft) on the input side of the generator, my skimmer doesn't starve for air.
Cool I was going to try that tonight. Is that the only skimmer you run? Skimmer still efficient after the ozone ( I know there'll be less junk to remove so I expect a slight decline). What size tank do you run it on?
Do you put carbon on the top of the collection output or water output?
RichT said:Uh oh, I see this thread getting moved to the Advanced Forum!
Is that 'cause Carlo replied?
Not just Carlo! We have a couple real knowledgeable Chem guys hanging around the board lately and that topic can get real technical real quick. With Carlo more than capable of holding his own, and as JDeik said earlier, "Sharks are attracted to the splashing."
Carlo said:
I was doing it more for making sure residual ozone doesn't get into the main tank. I read something about bromide possibly being created.
Also what is a good orp reading to set it at?
RichT said:
Thanks I read much on orp including many of those mentioned, that's the reason I added it to my tank. I was just seeing what others set their controllers at since I've read different sources that say everything from 350-450.
120gallons said:
Couple things, if the smell coming from the skimmer is noticeable and bothers you then by all means put a bag of carbon on top the skimmer or something so the air has to pass through it.
On the effluent, it wouldn't hurt to use carbon and if you do run carbon in your system 24/7 then this is the place to do it. However, the "need" to run the effluent through the carbon is over rated except for possible a bromide issue. Next post.
Carlo
120gallons said:
I like this breakdown of ORP values:
ORP Ranges:
Very Bad : below 140 millivolt
Bad : 141 to 180 millivolt
Poor : 181 to 200 millivolt
Too Low : 201 to 220 millivolt
New salt water : 221 to 240 millivolt
Low : 241 to 270 millivolt
Medium : 271 to 310 millivolt
Good : 311 to 340 millivolt
Better : 341 to 360 millivolt
Best : 361 to 390 millivolt
High : 391 to 450 millivolt
Too high : 450-525 millivolt
Dangerous : 526-575 millivolt
Very dangerous : over 575 millivolt
I generally try and set the target point to around 375-380 range on the controller and then dial back the generator itself so it's running 90% of the time. I like this better then short bursts of stronger ozone.
RichT:
Definitely need to clean (at least) and calibrate the probe/controller. If the generator isn't running it won't stay at that level by itself. BTW, the "shark" comment was pretty funny.
WHY YOU MAY WANT TO RUN THE EFFLUENT THROUGH CARBON - BROMIDE/BROMATE
Bromine is a halogen, a non-metallic salt-forming element related to Chlorine, Fluorine, Iodine, and Astatine. It is present in sea water mostly as free bromide ions. It is one of the eleven major elements in natural sea water at a concentration of about 65-67 ppm. It's similar to iodine and chlorine in the sense it can act as an oxidizer. The problem is that when you apply ozone to water containing bromide you get a breakdown of the bromide with by-products such as hypobromite, bromite and bromate. These can be toxic to the tank. These by-products can easily be removed with GAC.
All salt mixes tested in 2005 in the Inland Reef Salt study showed excess levels of Bromine compared to NSW ranging from 210-600 ppm. While this might sound high it gets depleted by algae in our tank. IMHO while it's possible to cause a problem I've never heard or seen of real life problems with it in our tanks. I run 500mg of ozone with carbon on the effluent and haven't experienced any problems that I'm aware off. To be fair I don't change out very much water so my levels are probably lower then most.
HOWEVER, this CAN BE a major/major problem in the future. Many people use DOW calcium in a two-part solution or standalone manner to raise calcium levels. DOW has issued a couple service bulletins about SKY-ROCKETED levels of bromide. http://www.dow.com/calcium/news/August_2005.pdf & http://www.dow.com/calcium/news/August_2005_add.pdf
In a nut shell DOW used to "extract" bromide from their calcium but is getting out of the bromide business so to speak so the bromide won't be extracted anymore. This can cause problems for aquariums, pools & spas that use ozone, possible UV and any type of powerful oxidizer. Dowflake, Pedalow and anything else DOW calcium probably won't be suitable for our use anymore.
Carlo
Carlo
ORP Ranges:
Very Bad : below 140 millivolt
Bad : 141 to 180 millivolt
Poor : 181 to 200 millivolt
Too Low : 201 to 220 millivolt
New salt water : 221 to 240 millivolt
Low : 241 to 270 millivolt
Medium : 271 to 310 millivolt
Good : 311 to 340 millivolt
Better : 341 to 360 millivolt
Best : 361 to 390 millivolt
High : 391 to 450 millivolt
Too high : 450-525 millivolt
Dangerous : 526-575 millivolt
Very dangerous : over 575 millivolt
Don't' be posting that old Thiel crap But it is a fairly good guide. You should add the other stuff to it, as in regards to when x, y or z algae appears and disappears
ORP Ranges:
Very Bad : below 140 millivolt
Bad : 141 to 180 millivolt
Poor : 181 to 200 millivolt
Too Low : 201 to 220 millivolt
New salt water : 221 to 240 millivolt
Low : 241 to 270 millivolt
Medium : 271 to 310 millivolt
Good : 311 to 340 millivolt
Better : 341 to 360 millivolt
Best : 361 to 390 millivolt
High : 391 to 450 millivolt
Too high : 450-525 millivolt
Dangerous : 526-575 millivolt
Very dangerous : over 575 millivolt
Don't' be posting that old Thiel crap
But it is a fairly good guide. You should add the other stuff to it, as in regards to when x, y or z algae appears and disappears Thanks for all the great info. What's the best way to clean the probe?