PH concern

[MadReefer]

I had some problems with my PH, which was posted in the Zoa forum. I was able to raiie it from 7.8 to 8.1 using Kent buffer. I know, I know. Anyway, did a water change of 7 gallons on my 75 gal tank and 30 gal sump. I just tested the PH and it dropped to 7.9, test was done 3 hrs later. I assumed it was the water conditioner I added because my tap water always had a PH of 8.4. I decided to test the tap water and the PH was 7. the water company must be doing something different. How can I ensure my PH is at the right level and stabilizes?

Mark

 

[Carlo]

Just in case you aren't aware pH increasers are actually ALKALINITY increasers. So always test your alkalinity before using them or you could end up chasing a problem that can't be fixed (pH) but you'll end up spiking your alk very high.

Keep your alkalinity in the 8 to 11 dKH range. If your alkalinity is in this range then you can't use an additive to raise the pH itself. Normally lower pH is caused by to much CO2 in the fish room or not enough surface movement on the tank. If you can arrange your powerheads so it's rippling the surface you'll have better O2/CO2 exchange and typically the pH will be higher in the tank.

The problem for most people especially in winter is that our homes have a lot of CO2 in them since they are closed up tight. In spring/fall with windows open the pH is usually higher for obvious reasons.

A couple of ways you can artificially raise the pH is by dripping kalk or high pH based alk buffer (only to the point the system can use it).

Carlo

 

[MadReefer]

Carlo,
Thanks for the repsonse. I run into that CO2 problem every Feb and usually add an airstone to the tank. I have added powerhead to the tank and the other side has a Koriali 3 pointing at the surface angled left. I also adjusted the return hose. The surface gets much movement in my opinion. My concern is the fact that the tap has the low PH. You are correct as my alk is 300ppm and I cannot add more buffer. Not sure what I can do for water changes or top off to get the PH up.
Mark

 

[mladencovic]

...
My concern is the fact that the tap has the low PH. You are correct as my alk is 300ppm and I cannot add more buffer. Not sure what I can do for water changes or top off to get the PH up.
...

Tap water is supposed to be around 7 ! Usually it is a bit more alkaline (7.2-7.4) But it could be slightly acidic as well (rain water), it all depends on your water supply. Why don't you try using RO unit. It will soon pay out in savings on water conditioners you use, and you will have much better water and far more control of what is in it.

In the end, as Carlo has pointed out, If the air in the house is rich in CO2, the surface agitation and airstones will not bring it down. If you were not using tap water that is usually rich in Ca, I would have suggested using the Kalk to raise the pH.

 

[MadReefer]

I did some research on Kalk and the websites state to mix it with RO water, not tap. I don't have an RO unit or access to one. Can I mix the Kalk with tap or water from my tank?

 

[Carlo]

You could use tap water if you have to BUT you don't want to use salt water as it doesn't mix well.

As mladencovic pointed out you should really really consider an RO/DI unit. It will save you so much grief down the road I can't imagine running a marine tank without one.

Carlo

 

[reefitup]

I considered running down to the LFS to get some RO water to start my 29 BioCube that's still in it's box and staring at me... :

It's been KILLING me having it here for the past week or so and not be setting it up, but I'm picking up an RO from a member next weekend ;D at the meeting so I'm going to wait to get that.

Brand new empty tank and I'm waiting to pick up the RO unit. That should be worth noting And trust me... it's killing me to not throw water in and go, but I know from previous reef tanks, the problems with using Tap water...

Not sure where you live, but Aquarium Center in Clementon/Blackwood area sells it for I think 50 cents a gallon so you might check your LFS.

Back in the day, when RO's were really not affordable, I had 6 containers I bought from Walmart. They were teal in color and they actually looked like thinner gas containers (I think 6 gallons) you would see on the back of a jeep or 4x4 and they had a nozzle for pouring (nice bonus feature). I used those to get RO water from the LFS...

Now R/O's are alot cheaper than they were years ago and they really do pay for themselves over the long haul...

 

[DaveK]

It's easy enough to see if you have a CO2 problem. Turn the room heating down, and open a window foe a few hours, and see if you get a change in pH that you can't otherwise explain.

It's not unusual to see drop in pH in the winter, especially if the house is tight.

Some people have resolved the problem by placing the air pump used in a location where it gets fresh air. Some older models of air pumps even had a place where you could connect a piece of tubing that you could run to the outside.

 

[MadReefer]

There are no LFS close by that sell RO water. The closest place would be AqOb, which is about a 20min drive. I opened the window yesterday and propped the canopy open a little. The PH went to 8.1 maybe 8.2.

 

[Phyl]

Are you using test kits or probe? If a probe, when was the last time you calibrated?

 

[MadReefer]

I am using test kits. Dip stick and drops. Using two to ensure accurate readings. Well as accurate as possible.