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Plumbing Assistance
- Thread starter jgraz
- Start date
Why is there a valve on the back of the tank? I wouldn’t put it there for two reasons….difficult to get to and the torque created when attempting to open or close the valve that close to the glass could crack the glass.
Bring the valve down into the sump and put it there. This way you can get to it from the front of the sump.
Now, on second thought, I’m thinking that is your return line. If that is the case, your pump will be happier if you meter your return water by Tee’ing off the return line and installing the valve there. The tee’ed off line just returns to your sump. I know, that doesn’t make sense with words. Lets try a picture:
The pump is below the union. The tee splits off the return line just above the union. You can’t see it in the picture, but there is a valve at the end of that horizontal pipe coming off the tee. By turning that valve, it meters the water going up into the DT. This way there is minimal strain put on the pump.
Bring the valve down into the sump and put it there. This way you can get to it from the front of the sump.
Now, on second thought, I’m thinking that is your return line. If that is the case, your pump will be happier if you meter your return water by Tee’ing off the return line and installing the valve there. The tee’ed off line just returns to your sump. I know, that doesn’t make sense with words. Lets try a picture:
The pump is below the union. The tee splits off the return line just above the union. You can’t see it in the picture, but there is a valve at the end of that horizontal pipe coming off the tee. By turning that valve, it meters the water going up into the DT. This way there is minimal strain put on the pump.
Additional comments on your line coming down to your sump from your overflow:
1. Put in a union somewhere on the back so that if and when you want to move the tank, or clean out a pipe, you can do it without having to cut it.
2. That last piece of pipe going into your sump; do NOT glue it……Just friction fit that pipe. It will hold just fine. Again, if you want to pull your sump out or change the length of that pipe, or install a sock, it’s easier to do.
1. Put in a union somewhere on the back so that if and when you want to move the tank, or clean out a pipe, you can do it without having to cut it.
2. That last piece of pipe going into your sump; do NOT glue it……Just friction fit that pipe. It will hold just fine. Again, if you want to pull your sump out or change the length of that pipe, or install a sock, it’s easier to do.
I just put the valve there just cause well that s the way the LFS set It up for me. I was using the clear flexable tube cause the pump came with a barbed end and just figured it would be easier to set it up that way. I can just as easily change it though, and go straight PVC.
As far as that sump ever coming out, it ain't. The only way that comes out is if I tank down the DT. So are the unions still needed.
Thanks for the help
As far as that sump ever coming out, it ain't. The only way that comes out is if I tank down the DT. So are the unions still needed.
Thanks for the help
The only plumbing I have is flexible tube. When I remove the pump for cleaning, I just cut off the tube right at the barbed fitting and either reattach it or replace the tube. Two or three feet of tubing isn't that expensive, and I always have a few feet on hand. I also don't use any kind of valves either since I'm only providing the return to the tank, I just make sure, after considering head loss, that I have the right pump.
I agree with redfish bluefish's suggestions. Especially the part with the tee on the pump discharge. I would like to add a suggestion. IMHO it is best to have a flexible connection as soon as you can when you come out of your bulkhead fitting. The longer the rigid pipe is coming out of the tank the more leverage and stress against the glass. Flexible pvc works great and it is still relatively rigid so your piping doesn't flop around or collapse like clear tubing can. You only need a few inches of it.
first of all - sorry for gang green. Woulda coulda shoulda i guess.
back on topic.
Make sure you water test/ensure no leaks on that sump.
Also the water flowing down - at that height into the sump you will not be able to employ a filter sock. Some people use em - others don't. Just pointing that out.
Finally if we are using flexible hose - i prefer black. You get all kinds of build up/algae that grows in clear ones. Especially if you plan on having any macro in your sump.
Just my 2 cents.
back on topic.
Make sure you water test/ensure no leaks on that sump.
Also the water flowing down - at that height into the sump you will not be able to employ a filter sock. Some people use em - others don't. Just pointing that out.
Finally if we are using flexible hose - i prefer black. You get all kinds of build up/algae that grows in clear ones. Especially if you plan on having any macro in your sump.
Just my 2 cents.
You shouldn't need the valve when you turn the pump off. If you do you don't have your return in the tank high enough. I wouldn't put the valve behind the tank if you won't be able to grab it with both hands. A valve that hasn't been turned for a while can need a lot of force to turn. I'd put it near the pump right after a union.
I felt like I was watching the Flight Crew for the past few weeks.
Why no sock? I was not planning on using one but the ability to add if need would be nice.
Sump was steady tested. Nice and water tight. Not pretty but tight.
Couple quick things,
The bulkhead coming out of your gh kit, make sure there isnt paint behind the flange.
Definetely use flex pvc out of the 90s from the bulkheads, all it takes is one bump to be a problem.
I agree to move the valve, not sure what return pump you are using, but you should be able to "hard" plumb the whole way.
I personally wouldn't put a union in the drain line... in the event of a problem or moving the tank a coupler is 50 cents and replacing the entire line is $15.
If you need to replace the bulkhead any sch40 bulkhead will fit.
Definitely dont glue last leg of drain in, or atleast use a unglued coupler in last leg.
The bulkhead coming out of your gh kit, make sure there isnt paint behind the flange.
Definetely use flex pvc out of the 90s from the bulkheads, all it takes is one bump to be a problem.
I agree to move the valve, not sure what return pump you are using, but you should be able to "hard" plumb the whole way.
I personally wouldn't put a union in the drain line... in the event of a problem or moving the tank a coupler is 50 cents and replacing the entire line is $15.
If you need to replace the bulkhead any sch40 bulkhead will fit.
Definitely dont glue last leg of drain in, or atleast use a unglued coupler in last leg.
i was just thinking a lot of socks tend to be like 12" long or so. You'd have to really bend the thing to get it on that. I guess it's do-able but you'd make things easier if it didn't return so close to the bottom of the sump.
More the reason NOT TO GLUE that last connection into the sump. Here’s my plumbing entering the sump……no glue, just friction fit.
this setup is definitely not PAUL setup because the hand in the picture isn't Paul. too white 
More the reason NOT TO GLUE that last connection into the sump. Here’s my plumbing entering the sump……no glue, just friction fit.