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Thoughts on Reefing Consistency

Rueric

NJRC Member
Hello Everyone,

Recently, I have been putting some more thought into consistency or "stability" recently as I dive deeper into the reefing hobby.
As I enter into my first year of coral growing, I've encountered many issues and continue to learn more as I progress.
I have two tanks, my "Main Display" being a 32g fluval flex, and a fishless "Coral QT" tank in my office, a 10g waterbox.

The tanks were stood up in July and August of last year (2021) and while I have seen some growth on my corals, growth has been quite slow and minimal.
I've been keeping a consistency of roughly 30-40% water changes on a monthly basis.
From my understanding, water changes are primarily for nutrient export and replenishment of major and minor trace elements.
While both tanks have macro algae (Dragonsbreath) inside, I assume my issue isnt with a lack of nitrate/phosphate.
My weekly testing consists of Alk, Calc, Nitrate, Phosphate (Hanna) and Magnesium (Aquaforest).
I aim for the parameters outlined by WWC's tanks: Guarantee

A weird thing about both my tanks have always been the RISE of Alk in my tank despite not even dosing.
In some instances, I've noticed the alk rising to 11dkh while a fresh batch is ~8dkh.
While this is still a mystery to me, my leading theory is that the rockwork or my substrate (special grade aragonite) may be dissolving.
One would think it's due to my alk/calc/mag being off-balanced, but my calc and mag has always remained quite stable with only Alk rising.
The salt I use is Redsea blue bucket, and I've tested the parameters for a fresh batch which closely matches the MyBatch results from Redsea.

Given the need for stability in the tank, and apparent slow growth of my corals, my plan is to step up my husbandry and increase my water change cadence to 20-30% on a weekly basis.
I think this will greatly help stabilize the alk situation, but also help to address a major component which may have been missed, trace elements.
I haven't put too much thought into the importance of trace elements, but I have been thinking diving into the reef moonshiners method.
Unfortunately, it's not a cheap method, so perhaps a single ICP test to start just to show what I'm missing.

One issue I am seeing with this approach, is my fishless office tank. I feed it quite heavily, with a consistent schedule of feeding a mix of reef roids, coral aminos, benepets benereef, and redsea AB+. I struggle to keep my nitrate/phosphate up.
My schedule for feeding is:
Daily Coral Aminos (once a week, I'll replace coral aminos with Redsea AB+)
Tue/Thurs/Sun: benepets with a bit of reef roids

Perhaps I'll just have to accept the fact that I need to dose nitrates in the office nano.
I've also greatly reduced the amount of dragons breath in the office tank to only a small frag size but my nitrates struggle to get above 10ppm.

Sorry for the rant, thank you for reading, I would love to know your thoughts

TLDR; be a better reefer by increasing water change schedule, and hope that this approach brings stability/consistency to my reef tank
 

DYIguy

NJRC Member
You didn't mention what lights/ setting/ schedule- that might have something to do with it
 

mwil79

NJRC Member
I can't comment too much on the use Red Sea Salts but I can definitely say some salt mixes higher than other. When was the last time you calibrated your refractometer or whatever you may be using?

I run a 65g and use IO Reef Crystals however I haven't done a water change in about a year at this point. I have BRS 1.1 ML a Min dosers for Alk and Cal.

As far as trace elements here is a help for that solution

Don't use RedSea AB+ and switch to Aquavitro Fuel.

It contains the similar Carbs/Aminos that are in AB+ however also includes the following trace elements:

Minerals
Boron 96 µg
Iodine 180 µg
Iron 15 µg
Copper 1 µg
Zinc 5 µg
Manganese 62 µg
Bromide 300 µg
Cobalt 4 µg
Molybdenum 15 µg
Vanadium 28 µg
Nickel 0.4 µg
Tin 0.2 µg
Rubidium 1 µg

This helps supplement anything that may be consumed when not doing as many water changes.


I get excellent growth and color from no water changes. Top offs from ato and feeding.


20220310_125535.jpg
 
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Rueric

NJRC Member
You didn't mention what lights/ setting/ schedule- that might have something to do with it
I have 2 ai primes on my 32g
1 ai prime on the nano
running the pirates schedule from 8am ramp to 11am then ramp down from 7pm to 12am lights out
 

Rueric

NJRC Member
I can't comment too much on the use Red Sea Salts but I can definitely say some salt mixes higher than other. When was the last time you calibrated your refractometer or whatever you may be using?

I run a 65g and use IO Reef Crystals however I haven't done a water change in about a year at this point. I have BRS 1.1 ML a Min dosers for Alk and Cal.

As far as trace elements here is a help for that solution

Don't use RedSea AB+ and switch to Aquavitro Fuel.

It contains the similar Carbs/Aminos that are in AB+ however also includes the following trace elements:

Minerals
Boron 96 µg
Iodine 180 µg
Iron 15 µg
Copper 1 µg
Zinc 5 µg
Manganese 62 µg
Bromide 300 µg
Cobalt 4 µg
Molybdenum 15 µg
Vanadium 28 µg
Nickel 0.4 µg
Tin 0.2 µg
Rubidium 1 µg

This helps supplement anything that may be consumed when not doing as many water changes.


I get excellent growth and color from no water changes. Top offs from ato and feeding.


View attachment 43052
I'll definitely need to look into the Aquavitro Fuel, thanks.
I use the hanna salinity checker and recently recalibrated as of this past saturday
 

mwil79

NJRC Member
I'll definitely need to look into the Aquavitro Fuel, thanks.
I use the hanna salinity checker and recently recalibrated as of this past saturday
If you have another way of testing Alk I would definitely give it a shot to see if that may be just a bad batch of reagent.

I can't imagine the rocks would be breaking down from a less than a year old tank to leach Alk. I really suspect it may be the salt and you may not realize it. Leaching from rocks is 100% possible but not to the point of 3 DKH increase unless its a massive amount of rock. Being you are running a 32 gallon tank I don't see that being the case. Do you have a local reefer near you who can run some tests for you just to rule that out? I would gladly do it but not sure where you are located.

I actually double check my hanna checkers with Salifert on occasion just to be sure.
 

Rueric

NJRC Member
If you have another way of testing Alk I would definitely give it a shot to see if that may be just a bad batch of reagent.

I can't imagine the rocks would be breaking down from a less than a year old tank to leach Alk. I really suspect it may be the salt and you may not realize it. Leaching from rocks is 100% possible but not to the point of 3 DKH increase unless its a massive amount of rock. Being you are running a 32 gallon tank I don't see that being the case. Do you have a local reefer near you who can run some tests for you just to rule that out? I would gladly do it but not sure where you are located.

I actually double check my hanna checkers with Salifert on occasion just to be sure.
I think my alk tester/reagent is fine, given i've gone through 2 vials already of reagent.
also, i test against my fresh salt too which is in line with what redsea mybatch results are
 

mwil79

NJRC Member
I think my alk tester/reagent is fine, given i've gone through 2 vials already of reagent.
also, i test against my fresh salt too which is in line with what redsea mybatch results are

Did you use any live rock when you started your tank or all dry rock and seeded with bacteria?

I was doing some reading and found a post with a similar issue someone was having due to not using any actual live rock. Once they seeded their tank with rock from an established aquarium it was an instant change.

"Welp, 5 days later and I'm down to 7.9dKh from a high of 9.1. pH is stable at 8.1 and calcium is dropping about 10ppm per day. Exactly what I was hoping for! Amazing what some live rock can do! Thank you again!"

If you would like read through.

Per one of the reef chemists on r2r the only way Alk raises is additives or a drop in nitrates such as 50ppm -> 2,3ish DKH

 

Rueric

NJRC Member
What a great posting.. It does seem like the posts are in-line with my experience as well.
I had to restart my tank due to a vermetid snail infestation.
The infestation was absolutely everywhere and since it was before I had corals, I felt like a tank reboot/cleanout was necessary.
This time around, I started with all dead rock and dead sand with a starting culture of using microbacter 7.
 

mwil79

NJRC Member
What a great posting.. It does seem like the posts are in-line with my experience as well.
I had to restart my tank due to a vermetid snail infestation.
The infestation was absolutely everywhere and since it was before I had corals, I felt like a tank reboot/cleanout was necessary.
This time around, I started with all dead rock and dead sand with a starting culture of using microbacter 7.


Vermitid Snails are almost impossible to avoid. I keep a stock of bumble bee snails in my tank to keep them in check. I bet if you added some established rock you would have a major turn around.
 

Rueric

NJRC Member
Vermitid Snails are almost impossible to avoid. I keep a stock of bumble bee snails in my tank to keep them in check. I bet if you added some established rock you would have a major turn around.
 

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Rueric

NJRC Member
Reading up on the live rocks, it looks like KP Aquatics is the preferred vendor..
Now this has me wondering, was dosing microbacter 7 not enough, does ANYONE out there actually have successful tanks using only dry rock/drysand + bottled bacteria?
 

john90009

NJRC Member
Greg carrol on Instagram deffinitly has success with dry marco rock and dry sand . I have a tank of marco and dry sand going now so I’ll let you know when something goes amiss, but so far so good.
 

Rueric

NJRC Member
Greg carrol on Instagram deffinitly has success with dry marco rock and dry sand . I have a tank of marco and dry sand going now so I’ll let you know when something goes amiss, but so far so good.
Which bottled bacteria did you use to cycle?
 

john90009

NJRC Member
I didn’t use any bottled bacteria, just threw in three chromis which is a slower version of the bottled bacteria. I really would avoid adding anything to the tank. When you add bacteria you are introducing bacteria that a system doesn’t sustain on its own at a manageable level. Within a week of my tank getting water in it I threw in three chromis, which people say may be too soon but the fish method is going to add waste at the same rate every single day consistently. When people dose bacteria at some point they will stop or the system will get overloaded to where the ammonia feeding the bacteria isn’t going to be there for and to me I think it’s unnatural and that’s what leads to a lot of problems down the road. The ecosystem should mature on its own with bacteria strains that are suitable for tank life. So I would just let the addition of fish feed the bacteria, the bacteria will populate quickly on thier own, by adding bottles of bacteria you keep adding bacteria to a battlefield that is trying to stabilize .
 

john90009

NJRC Member
Greg I am pritty sure used microbacter 7 along with micro clean I think and also kept introducing coraline algea in the tank frequently
 

mwil79

NJRC Member
Reading up on the live rocks, it looks like KP Aquatics is the preferred vendor..
Now this has me wondering, was dosing microbacter 7 not enough, does ANYONE out there actually have successful tanks using only dry rock/drysand + bottled bacteria?
I did but before my tank really took off it sure did take a long time. I also did add fish to start up the cycle process. I am sure through frags/colonies I had purchased I was also adding a lot of good bacteria.

Honestly I have noticed a bigger difference in the last few months with being almost "hands off"

I try to not put my hands in the tank unless 100% necessary and just keep the dosers going and do my weekly water checks.
 
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