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Water Station

I would like to set up a reliable process were I can easily mix new water for water changes.

I am quite certain others have done this, so I figured I would try not to re-invent the wheel.

Here are my thoughts so far.

Water line will go through a carbon reactor, and then into Kati Ani.

Purified Output will go into Container 1 Holding Tank.

Mixing Tank will be gravity fed from the holding tank.

Mixing Tank will include heater and powerhead.

Mixing Tank will feed buckets for water change.

Interested in what others are doing?

I only plan to hold 20 gallons or slightly less at a time, so any help on good storage containers would be great.

Any other thoughts welcome.
 
Two comments..... For your storage container, I would look at simple Rubbermaid totes. I would also think about not using a water heater. If you are doing a 10% change or less, the temperature isn't critical. When you are doing a larger change, then throw in a heater for a couple hours.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
We have a 55g drum plumbed to our RODI with a Kent float switch (ok for use here because this is fresh water, not such a good solution for SW). We have one pump that connects that to our kalk reactor for FW top off. A second pump connects that to our SW mixing drum (another 55g drum). We throw a switch when we want to move water to the SW mixing drum and turn it off when full. Add salt, turn on the heater and power head and we're ready to change water. That 55g drum is plumbed directly to the sump so that when we're ready to replace change water we just throw another switch and wait for the water to finish transferring.

I don't think I'd want my SW mixing bucket to be gravity fed from the first bucket. Way too much to go wrong there. If the water is fed without you knowing you could end up with lower than desireable salinity and do a bad water change. Everything we do here is intentional.
 
Thank you for the input all, I really appreciate it.

I may need to clarify, to make my design clearer.

Holding tank will be fed from incoming source water. (Possible ATO)
Considering adding an overflow tube to my basement sump to prevent possible flooding.

Gravity feed to Mixing tank will require manual release of water from holding tank (ball valve likely)

Salt will be added to mixing tank, mixed, and salinity checked.

This will then feed 5 gallon buckets which I will transport to my tank.

For now, I am keeping automation to a minimum. I prefer to take "baby steps" first.

Any issues with that design?
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
It sounds solid to me. I sort of disagree with Bruce about the heater. Salinity will vary slightly based on temperature of the water. Therefore, you want to mix it as close to your tanks normal temp as possible so that when you check it you will get an accurate reading. It may not make that much of a difference with low volumes though, so he could be right in this instance.

I do agree with Phyl about how automation does have it's advantages, but when/if something goes wrong and you rely on the automation when you are not around to check on it... you WILL have a problem.

With that said, any preventive measures you can take at setup will pay for itself in the long run. I think the overflow tube to your sump is a great idea and definitely should be implemented if at all possible. I would also consider including the "wastewater" line coming from your RODI and attach it to this drain line as well. If you normally use some of the wastewater for other things (drinking/watering plants/laundry/etc.), you can just add a wye or a tee to the wastewater line with a valve on one outlet and then run the other outlet to the sump.

Other thoughts to help make this an ideal setup:
1. Add a wye or tee between the holding tank and the mixing tank, with another valve. That way, you can either pipe directly to an ATO (will also need an external pump to get it upstairs from the basement), or just leave an outlet to fill up a bucket to replenish your evap.

1a. Another option here would be to just throw a submersible pump or powerhead into the holding tank with a long enough discharge tube to fill your buckets with clean/non-salt water. Either way, it doesn't hurt to have a pump or powerhead in the holding tank to keep it circulating anyway. This is the method I use because I'm limited on space in my garage so I can't connect multiple containers so I do everything out of one. When not filling up my buckets, the pump/tube stays in the container and keeps the water moving.

2. Whenever possible, setup a stand of some sort to keep your containers off the ground. That way, all of your plumbing work will be up higher so you won't have to bend over so much to turn a valve or whatever. You still want to be able to look down into your containers from the top, so don't make them too high. I'd say ideally you want to at least raise them enough so that and piping outlets (to fill up buckets) are just above your bucket height.

Hope that helps.
 
Thank you Tanks. I will definitely incorporate some of those ideas in.

One last question I have: I am currently planning to use a rubermaid tote to store the water.

They have lids, which I plan to keep on.

I am wondering/concerned about gas exchange with the water.

I was considering cutting a hole in the lid, and then attaching an elbow fitting to the lid.

The thought was, this will allow for gas exchange without leaving an open hole that any falling debris could easily enter.

Thoughts? How big should I make the hole?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I use a Rubbermaid Toughneck to mix my water as well. I would guess it holds about 20 gallons. I typically make 12 – 15 gallons. The sides are so distorted from the weight of the water, I’m not even sure if I could get the top on if I wanted to. I have never tried, and besides,I have the wires for the heater and pump keeping me from putting in on anyway. The top just loosely sits on top of the tub while I mix.
 
redfishbluefish said:
I use a Rubbermaid Toughneck to mix my water as well. I would guess it holds about 20 gallons. I typically make 12 – 15 gallons. The sides are so distorted from the weight of the water, I’m not even sure if I could get the top on if I wanted to. I have never tried, and besides,I have the wires for the heater and pump keeping me from putting in on anyway. The top just loosely sits on top of the tub while I mix.

Thanks, that is a good point, distortion will probably prevent this.
 
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