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The clownfish is not a notorious jumper like some fish, however any fish can jump. I had a clownfish jump many years ago, my current two are 9 years old and no jumping yet. And sorry to hear about your jumper, your mesh lid sounds like the way to go.

I would use RODI, it is pure. Spring water will contain minerals and other impurities that may skew the outcome.

Hello All, I have some Christmas money burning a whole in my pocket so please let me know if you have a return pump (around 550 GPH), or a protein skimmer that is rated for tanks around 100 gallons. Let me know what you have!! I am in Cherry Hill NJ and would like to stay within a half hour...

Haha, that is great. Hope I can get my daughter interested in the hobby. Right now at 1 she just points and says fishies.

That depends on the refractometer, that is not predictable. What I would do is get your tank up to 1.022 slowly calibrated with rodi, and fully fix the calibration and tank salinity when you calibration fluid comes in. The fluid is only around 5 bucks...

They host anything, mine have hosted an open brain, xenia, frogspawn, and now duncan's. Nothing to worry about.

Using rodi will get you close, off by 2-3 points usually. So you still know you are really low and should start raising. And no The solution is only sold by good reef stores and online.

Also use this link to figure out your increase. I wouldn't go more than 2 point higher per day. I.e. 1.019 to 1.021. http://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/TargetSalinity.php

What did you calibrate the refractometer with? You should be using a calibration fluid, testing to water will not be accruate

Rob, what percentage are you running at?

Thanks for the input, like I said I know wattage should not be used, but I was not intending on using that as my only criteria. If you look at my other led posts on this forum you can tell I am an advocate of bigger fixture with leds spread out, and not tiny fixture with clusters.

Also, Paul what percentage are your lights at?

Paul, thanks for the input, I was aware the wattage does not tell the entire story but it was the only way I could think to establish even remotely even grounds. I was interested in the wattage used, percentage setting of lights, number of lights and their dimensions, and the tank dimensions...

So zippy you are at roughly 280 watts on a 120, so roughly 2.3 watts per gallon with no optics on the colors.

Zippy, how big is your tank, what model reefbreeders, and settings?

Some quick math puts you at about 380 watts, so roughly 1.6 watts per gallon. My tank is currently at 2 watts per gallon with no optics, so I would say we are pretty evenly matched considering your optics are still on. Come on guys, jump in here, lets get this info built up!

Chris, I decided to start a new thread in the equipment section so I do not derail this thread. Could you please post your tank size and how many watts of leds you are using in that thread (not how many watts you could run, your actual wattage based on percentage settings). Thanks!

Hey Guys, I decided to start another thread so I don't derail the halide thread. Just wanted to add the experience I had recently. I have been using a photon 24 over a 40 breeder for a year now, and the growth and color has been below average compared to when I had t5s. Everything I read...

Seems like we really luck out in NJ, I guess it has something to due with the fact that most of the state is on top of an aquifer. 300-700 tds is not uncommon for a lot of the US.

Hey Guys, Just wanted to add the experience I had recently. I have been using a photon 24 over a 40 breeder for a year now, and the growth and color has been below average compared to when I had t5s. Everything I read on the internet was that you should be running them no where near max for...