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10g sump/fuge (log)

Ok first before i start working on it here is a picture of how i'm planning on making it. Now i'm wondering how should the baffles be like in the picture or other way around?

599_06_03_07_5_27_36.bmp


I'll edit post when i start building it.

Nick
 
What size glass are you going to be using?

To me, I'm no sump expert mind you, but is the over/under on the return section necessary? I usually see the over-under-over coming from the intake, but there are a lot of different ways to do sumps. I'm also guessing that the middle section is a fuge?

The reason I am asking because it looks like you could gain some extra space by shifting the first bubble trap a little closer to the intake, unless you need that room for the skimmer and get a little bit large of a return area, which would help with evaporation. Just tossing a few ideas.

I am in the process of getting my sump so looking at other designs is a help to me as well.

FWIW

Tom
 

RichT

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I don't recommend any baffle extending all the way to the very top. If something were to go wrong with the water going under a baffle, the next stop is over the top. If the baffle is all the way up to the top then over the tank sides it goes.
 
What's the height of the return from the QuietOne? I see you have 900 gpm going out but only 780 gpm coming in.
 
C

concept3

Guest
if the middle part is a fuge, that's alot of water going through it. keep your baffles low, cuz just like Rich said, that's not a whole lotta space left in case the pump stops or you shut it off.
 
when i buit my sump\fuge i figured out that you should before you put in baffles figure out how much room you need to make sure neither tank will over flow. Then go use that info and make your baffles.

So if you need 3 inches of room in the sump for overflow then make sure your highest baffle is 3 inches from the top of the tank.
 
first off the 900gph is before head loss which RC says it's only going to be around 650

I've figured this out with water changes i only really need room for 1g before the hob overflow is out of the water but i'm sure there will be at less 2g of space.

Do i really need to worry about the baffles clogging?

Oh and i got my glass cut today i was going to yesterday but they weren't open
 
The waterbattle in the sump? i was breeding copepods well trying, and the water jug on the side is for water changes the pvc fits in the jug. thank goodness

One question! The ball valve which way does it face to close it??? as you can see it's half way cuz i forgot...

I got the HOB overflow really but while putting the pvc pipe in i guess the bulkhead got loose so i had to fix it and pourd alittle more in and no leaks i'm just hoping when i plug in the return pump that water doesn't come shooting out...
 
Thanks,
New problem... i plugged the return in for a second and i noticed the the knot i made in the air tube on the overflow wasn't enough so i unplugged it real quick cuz the water was getting really high so i was looking at the overflow when i started hearing bubbles i looked at the water and it was really low and though oh ****! the water reversed so i jumped for the plug to the pump and got the water fix and popped one side of the return PVC out of the water to get air in there and luckily that worked. So my question now is how to i stop the water from reversing when it's unplugged or the pump stops working? i heard drilling holes in the PVC right at the water line helps but whats your opinions?
Thanks
 

mikem

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
That's the solution. Drill a hole in the return line and check it monthly.
 
Thanks,
No harm in a few right? just to be safe i heard someones failed because a snail was covering the hole... i guess thats what i'll be doing tomorrow how big of holes like 1/4 an inch?
 
yup that'll work. I picked up a check valve from lowes for mine, hasn't failed me yet. Only thing about the water change, when you open that valve coming off the line from the pump its going to shoot the water OUT not suck water in.
 
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