Could had been sand. My yellow tang did that a lot
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12 foot long shallow reef build
- Thread starter Exarkun1178
- Start date
Copper in a DT....with rock and sand.....ouch! You need to ask questions before doing this kind of stuff. It's difficult maintaining proper copper levels with rock and sand in the tank. Please don't plan on adding back snails and inverts any time soon.....if at all. Also look into copper absorbing products once your fish are cured. Either that or a total restart with clean rock and sand.
I've found this to work well when treating ick. The hardest part is starving you fish for a day or two so they eat it. I had a purple tang in quarentine with some ick spots and the food took care of it in a couple days. Also as njtiger24 said that could have been sand, my purple tang and blue throat trigger lay against the sand and rocks at times and that's how they look afterwords. Use lots of carbon to help remove the copper when your done and make sure to test. As red fish blue fish stated keep your inverts out of there till there not a trace off copaper left. Last of all slow down. I rushed years ago and as everyone else stated it's only pain and sorrows. We try and fail in this hobby, patience is key.
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I am feeling better about using the copper. My poweder blue this morning has what s clearly two ich spots. and the angel emp looked as it did yesterday.
I understand the notion to slow down, as many of you might relate, its all fun and exciting. In any case, I hope this works.
I understand the notion to slow down, as many of you might relate, its all fun and exciting. In any case, I hope this works.
I have seen fish get spotted like that when stressed and it isn't ick ... not saying it is or isn't just to clarify. From the pictures it is extremely hard to tell. That said dumping copper in your tank is a problem. It is not just corals that it will kill but all inverts (snails, shrimp, crabs etc (CUC basically).
It would have been a lot safer to use hyposalinity after removing your snails and stuff. It actually helps the fish as at least in the short term makes it easier to eliminate waste, then when you bring the salinity back up there are not negative side effects. Now that you have dosed with copper it is complicated.
1) Keep ONLY fish in it for now.
2) You need to make sure they are completely healthy before moving on...and don't add any more fish as you will start all over again.
3) You have to remove all copper from the system.
A.) Remove all rock and sand and start over.
B.) Or get copper removing material....I know it is out there but have never done it. Maybe someone can chime in. But this process will take a while.
Good luck. Garlic is good idea and live food.
It would have been a lot safer to use hyposalinity after removing your snails and stuff. It actually helps the fish as at least in the short term makes it easier to eliminate waste, then when you bring the salinity back up there are not negative side effects. Now that you have dosed with copper it is complicated.
1) Keep ONLY fish in it for now.
2) You need to make sure they are completely healthy before moving on...and don't add any more fish as you will start all over again.
3) You have to remove all copper from the system.
A.) Remove all rock and sand and start over.
B.) Or get copper removing material....I know it is out there but have never done it. Maybe someone can chime in. But this process will take a while.
Good luck. Garlic is good idea and live food.
So let's move forward......
What is going to be critical now is maintaining therapeutic levels of copper. You'll need to test frequently to make sure you're maintaining these levels. Dependent on the type of copper, you'll need to have a test kit to measure that type of copper. Seachem and Salifert test kits are for ionic copper (such as Cupramine), while API tests for chelated copper (such as Coppersafe). You can not use an ionic test kit for chelated copper, and vice versa. Note that the therapeutic level needed differs from each product....so take note of the instructions on the bottle of copper you're using. Example is Cupramine requires 0.35 - 0.5 ppm while Coppersafe requires copper levels of 1.5 - 2.0 ppm. If your copper level drops below these levels, you'll need to start the clock all over again. You'll want to maintain copper for 30 days. Do not add any other additives to your tank.....especially ammonia reducing products like Prime.....this turns copper into a very toxic compound that will kill your fish. If you had cheato or any other algaes in your sump, at this point, throw it out....the copper will kill it. If you have carbon, take it off line.
Now, as far a white spots dissappearing....don't be fooled. It could simply be the parasite has passed into the next stage and has dropped off the fish. Doesn't mean your "done."
Best of luck.....and ask questions.
What is going to be critical now is maintaining therapeutic levels of copper. You'll need to test frequently to make sure you're maintaining these levels. Dependent on the type of copper, you'll need to have a test kit to measure that type of copper. Seachem and Salifert test kits are for ionic copper (such as Cupramine), while API tests for chelated copper (such as Coppersafe). You can not use an ionic test kit for chelated copper, and vice versa. Note that the therapeutic level needed differs from each product....so take note of the instructions on the bottle of copper you're using. Example is Cupramine requires 0.35 - 0.5 ppm while Coppersafe requires copper levels of 1.5 - 2.0 ppm. If your copper level drops below these levels, you'll need to start the clock all over again. You'll want to maintain copper for 30 days. Do not add any other additives to your tank.....especially ammonia reducing products like Prime.....this turns copper into a very toxic compound that will kill your fish. If you had cheato or any other algaes in your sump, at this point, throw it out....the copper will kill it. If you have carbon, take it off line.
Now, as far a white spots dissappearing....don't be fooled. It could simply be the parasite has passed into the next stage and has dropped off the fish. Doesn't mean your "done."
Best of luck.....and ask questions.
To add onto what @redfishbluefish said - just because it looks like the fish are healthy don't mean you can stop the treatment. If the copper treatment say 30 days you need to do the full 30 days even if your fish look healthy.
Just re set up my old bio cube. Put the snails and crabs in there for the time being. Figured I can keep it going as a quarantine tank.
Its small but better then having nothing.
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Its small but better then having nothing.
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Not a bad idea. A small qt tank is the way to go cause less medication you need to put in. When treating
Still new at this so I'm not sure what parameter is supporting this, but my water is getting much better
Ammonia is down, ~.1Nitrates are down. To ~.1
Copper is holing at 1.5
Fish are happy and eating.
The emp angel looks to still have some white spots
I was planning to do a water change today, but think I'll hold another day.
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Ammonia is down, ~.1Nitrates are down. To ~.1
Copper is holing at 1.5
Fish are happy and eating.
The emp angel looks to still have some white spots
I was planning to do a water change today, but think I'll hold another day.
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This Solal tang has got to be my favorite
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If you keep doing water changes while treating with copper you will have to keep restarting copper treatment. You will be removing the copper then deluiting it when you add the new sw. Just the the tank finish cycling and monitor your copper right now. Once treatment is done you can do a big 30 to 40 % water change.
Picked up a gold spotted rabbit fish and marine beta today.
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If you have ick now is not the time to add fish to your tank. Fortunately you are treating your tank with copper.
I figured, now is a good time to add the fish because of the copper. ?
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I here yea, just remeber copper is a poison. I personally use as little as possible. It's still stresses them out.
Display tank is ~157 gallons
Fish count:
2 domino damsels
1 three strip damsel
1 clown fish
2 yellow tail damsels
1 mechanic blemmy
1 sailfin tang
1 powder blue tang
1 sohal tang
1 emp angel fish
1 coral bueaty angel fish
1 Aruga butterfly
1 golden spot rabbit fish
1 marine beta
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