advice on Setup 90 Gallons

[nightmarepl]

Hey guys, im finally upgrading from 30g to 90G yikes...
so i got myself a 90 gallon aqueon 48.5" x 18.5" x 25.375" Reef Ready " not 100% sure how you guys set these things up
first things first im going to be making a sump prob 10-20G breeder tank made into a sump i want to use PVC piping for everything no hoses
the tank is drilled from the bottom has a compartment Aqueon MegaFlow 90 gallon Aquarium 48x18x24 (w/ overflow)
how would you guys do that rubber gasket with pvc compression?
another question would be the guy who gave me the tank said it was sitting in his garage about 2 years " brand new never had water " thinks the silicone might be dried out what should i do here? add a new layer or razor off the old add new again?

sump questioning - this is the tricky part for me what does the sump require pump wise how big of a pump? whats to stop it from over flowing?

first setup im getting some pink fiji sand cause ofcourse wife loves it would it fine to do standard tap water from the start? or does it HAVE to me RODI water ill be making 10-15G water changes biweekly with RODI water
but getting 90 gallons of RODI water for me is a pain specially in one shot

ill be adding my rock from my current tank into slowly after the cycle is finished
some ideas / tips / info would be great i know i can count on this group.

 

[nightmarepl]

on another note RODI makers 3:1 waste water? just making a simple monthly water change lets says 20gallons wasting 60 gallons? dont your water bills spike?

 

[amado]

Ok RODI is a must. Being able to make water at home is a huge advantage in this hobby. Also setting up the
Tank with zero TDS is the way to start a tank.
You can get a RODI that comes with a water saver
So the waste water will be less.

The sump should be able to hold all your equipment
And enough water when your tank losses power
And the water in the tank and over flow goes to the sump.
It won’t overflow to your floor.

You should also thinking about if you are going to have a
Refugium in the sump and make enough space for it.

As far as a return pump you don’t need anything really powerful. I would get a dc return pump. That way you can lower the power if needed.

I personally would stay away from the powdery sand.
I always get the caribsea ocean direct live sand from amazon.

And last I would fill that tank up with regular water on the garage or outside and water test it and make sure that tank holds water. You should be fine but make sure if there is a leak it leaks outside.

 

[nightmarepl]

Ok RODI is a must. Being able to make water at home is a huge advantage in this hobby. Also setting up the
Tank with zero TDS is the way to start a tank.
You can get a RODI that comes with a water saver
So the waste water will be less.

The sump should be able to hold all your equipment
And enough water when your tank losses power
And the water in the tank and over flow goes to the sump.
It won’t overflow to your floor.

You should also thinking about if you are going to have a
Refugium in the sump and make enough space for it.

As far as a return pump you don’t need anything really powerful. I would get a dc return pump. That way you can lower the power if needed.

I personally would stay away from the powdery sand.
I always get the caribsea ocean direct live sand from amazon.

yah my town is kind of crazy on the water our water bill is basically a standard rate until you pass some amount not 100% sure how it works but after doing some reading think a RODI maker would be okay i guess.
how big of a sump you think i would need for this thing 20 gallon be enough?

 

[amado]

yah my town is kind of crazy on the water our water bill is basically a standard rate until you pass some amount not 100% sure how it works but after doing some reading think a RODI maker would be okay i guess.
how big of a sump you think i would need for this thing 20 gallon be enough?

I would go for the biggest size that fits in the stand.
The bigger the better. 20 gallon can work but a 40 gallon
If you could fit it will give you more space heater/skimmers/socks/reactors and return pump

 

[nightmarepl]

I would go for the biggest size that fits in the stand.
The bigger the better. 20 gallon can work but a 40 gallon
If you could fit it will give you more space heater/skimmers/socks/reactors and return pump

alright ill shoot for 30-40 stand im making myself so i can always make it bigger if needed, was also thinking on building one from plexiglass i have a few sheets at home
just alittle scared ill over flow the system when my power goes out haha!

 

[redfishbluefish]

Couple comments:

1. I don’t know what this means, “how would you guys do that rubber gasket with pvc compression?”

If you’re talking about a bulkhead, regardless of the direction of installation…...flange inside the tank/flange outside the tank…..the gasket ALWAYS goes on the flange side

2 Silicone “dried out.” Silicone does not dry out. Don’t touch it, it’s fine; it’s a new tank never having seen water or a nasty razorblade on that silicone.

3.” what does the sump require pump wise” You’re return pump can’t exceed the rating on your overflow…...minus headloss. With many now using DC adjustable return pumps, this shouldn’t be an issue. If it’s not a DC/adjustable pump, you could always simply put a valve on the return line restricting flow

4. Tap Water…...NO, NO and NO. You don’t want to use tap water. It’s like starting out already cursed. Any phosphates in the water will kindly bind to your rock and now you’d be guaranteed a nasty number of months trying to clean that up. Whoever came up with the proverb, Patience is a virtue, definitely had a saltwater tank and realized that taking your time will result in more successes.

5. RO/DI waste water. This one bothered me as well. I now collect in a 55 gallon drum and use to wash our clothes. I also set up to water outside plants, but that never happens because I generate too much dirty clothes.




6. Sump size. I too have a 90 gallon tank and for me the 40B is the ideal sump size. Fits under the tank and has maximum amount of space.

7. Buy a 40B....they're cheap on the dollar-a-gallon sale and use that plexi to make your baffles.

 

[nightmarepl]

Couple comments:

1. I don’t know what this means, “how would you guys do that rubber gasket with pvc compression?”

If you’re talking about a bulkhead, regardless of the direction of installation…...flange inside the tank/flange outside the tank…..the gasket ALWAYS goes on the flange side

2 Silicone “dried out.” Silicone does not dry out. Don’t touch it, it’s fine; it’s a new tank never having seen water or a nasty razorblade on that silicone.

3.” what does the sump require pump wise” You’re return pump can’t exceed the rating on your overflow…...minus headloss. With many now using DC adjustable return pumps, this shouldn’t be an issue. If it’s not a DC/adjustable pump, you could always simply put a valve on the return line restricting flow

4. Tap Water…...NO, NO and NO. You don’t want to use tap water. It’s like starting out already cursed. Any phosphates in the water will kindly bind to your rock and now you’d be guaranteed a nasty number of months trying to clean that up. Whoever came up with the proverb, Patience is a virtue, definitely had a saltwater tank and realized that taking your time will result in more successes.

5. RO/DI waste water. This one bothered me as well. I now collect in a 55 gallon drum and use to wash our clothes. I also set up to water outside plants, but that never happens because I generate too much dirty clothes.


View attachment 37881

6. Sump size. I too have a 90 gallon tank and for me the 40B is the ideal sump size. Fits under the tank and has maximum amount of space.

7. Buy a 40B....they're cheap on the dollar-a-gallon sale and use that plexi to make your baffles.

once i get some more pictures of the tank / sump i would need some guidance on plumbing
so lets say power does go out the water level in the DT drops to the outlet line/drain then basically stops correct? all the water dumps into the sump?
and i take it fills it to the topper portion
i have a 900 GPH pump that has a max push of 10FT never used would that work? ill be adding the valves if something to slow it down if needed

 

[redfishbluefish]

Yes, you're overflow with headloss should be able to easily handle 900gph pump. I first started with a MAG 9.5 (950gph) and it was just fine.

As far as back flow after the pumps are off, I actually calculated that because I wanted the tallest....maximum volume in my sump. When folks see my sump, that's the first thing they say..."won't that overflow?"

 

[nightmarepl]

Yes, you're overflow with headloss should be able to easily handle 900gph pump. I first started with a MAG 9.5 (950gph) and it was just fine.

As far as back flow after the pumps are off, I actually calculated that because I wanted the tallest....maximum volume in my sump. When folks see my sump, that's the first thing they say..."won't that overflow?"

View attachment 37882

thats a sweet setup, let me ask you a question not 100% on this tried looking it up not much info on this subject
somone told me once that they add fish into their sump WITH ich and eventually the ich will die off and not transfer into the tank is that true?
i did a full ich treatment on my tangs and i really really dont want to do that again haha

 

[redfishbluefish]

I wouldn't trust any advise that person gives you. The life cycle of "ich" includes a free swimming theronts which would end up circulating through you're entire system.

We had a member on here who had a very large system that came down with ich. He removed all his fish and quarantined them, leaving the tank empty for 78+ days. He put his fish back and the ich returned......there was a fish living in his skimmer that re-infected the tank. He had to repeat the process.

 

[nightmarepl]

I wouldn't trust any advise that person gives you. The life cycle of "ich" includes a free swimming theronts which would end up circulating through you're entire system.

We had a member on here who had a very large system that came down with ich. He removed all his fish and quarantined them, leaving the tank empty for 78+ days. He put his fish back and the ich returned......there was a fish living in his skimmer that re-infected the tank. He had to repeat the process.

yup thats what i figured brutal concept i did the whole copper treatment on my tangs and in no means do i want to repeat that or put them through it
thats my last worry first is getting this sump setup haha and the plumping so its done right dont want any headaches later on

 

[MadReefer]

Agree with Paul and Amado. I would get a sump bigger than 20g. My tank is 80g and sump is 30g/40g. One other thing I do to prevent back flow is I keep the return nozzle a teeny bit up above the surface.

 

[Goodair]

Agree with others about the sump and doing a wet test with the tank, after you manually inspect the silicone to see if its damaged. 40 breeder sump fits perfect under my 90, and had plenty of space for macros and extra equipment if ever needed. Since your building the cabinet, you will have some room on the side for all the electrical connections too, to keep them organized. Return nozzle is a few inches below the water level and sump can support it to go even lower, no check valve needed. MAG7 works, can be some pump around those specs, plus most of the flow the tank needs should be provided by the power heads and their positioning.

When you fill your tank, fill just the tank portion, and leave the overflow empty. I got mine used too, and water was leaking into it, but was an easy fix.

When you say reef ready, the tank has that large corner weir with the 2 hole in it? If so, I'd recommend using both as the herbie overflow, and running the returns either above the rim, or drilling holes for them is glass isnt tempered and your comfortable doing so.


With such a deep tank, your gonna have to make your rockwork high too, lights are gonna struggle to penetrate that deep and if you want light demanding animals, they will have to sit in the middle/top end of the tank.


Finally, congrats on the upgrade and enjoy the build!

 

[nightmarepl]

Agree with others about the sump and doing a wet test with the tank, after you manually inspect the silicone to see if its damaged. 40 breeder sump fits perfect under my 90, and had plenty of space for macros and extra equipment if ever needed. Since your building the cabinet, you will have some room on the side for all the electrical connections too, to keep them organized. Return nozzle is a few inches below the water level and sump can support it to go even lower, no check valve needed. MAG7 works, can be some pump around those specs, plus most of the flow the tank needs should be provided by the power heads and their positioning.

When you fill your tank, fill just the tank portion, and leave the overflow empty. I got mine used too, and water was leaking into it, but was an easy fix.

When you say reef ready, the tank has that large corner weir with the 2 hole in it? If so, I'd recommend using both as the herbie overflow, and running the returns either above the rim, or drilling holes for them is glass isnt tempered and your comfortable doing so.


With such a deep tank, your gonna have to make your rockwork high too, lights are gonna struggle to penetrate that deep and if you want light demanding animals, they will have to sit in the middle/top end of the tank.


Finally, congrats on the upgrade and enjoy the build!

thanks for all the info guys, greatly appreciated

 

[nightmarepl]

Agree with others about the sump and doing a wet test with the tank, after you manually inspect the silicone to see if its damaged. 40 breeder sump fits perfect under my 90, and had plenty of space for macros and extra equipment if ever needed. Since your building the cabinet, you will have some room on the side for all the electrical connections too, to keep them organized. Return nozzle is a few inches below the water level and sump can support it to go even lower, no check valve needed. MAG7 works, can be some pump around those specs, plus most of the flow the tank needs should be provided by the power heads and their positioning.

When you fill your tank, fill just the tank portion, and leave the overflow empty. I got mine used too, and water was leaking into it, but was an easy fix.

When you say reef ready, the tank has that large corner weir with the 2 hole in it? If so, I'd recommend using both as the herbie overflow, and running the returns either above the rim, or drilling holes for them is glass isnt tempered and your comfortable doing so.


With such a deep tank, your gonna have to make your rockwork high too, lights are gonna struggle to penetrate that deep and if you want light demanding animals, they will have to sit in the middle/top end of the tank.


Finally, congrats on the upgrade and enjoy the build!

another question would be lighting i currently have a AI prime HD was hoping to add a second one to this build would that be good enough to grow stuff?

 

[Goodair]

Am not sure about lights. Really depends on what corals or other photosynthetic organisms you plan on stocking.

 

[brokereefer]

another question would be lighting i currently have a AI prime HD was hoping to add a second one to this build would that be good enough to grow stuff?

What do you mean by "grow stuff?" Algae yes, definitely. Just kidding.

But 2 AI Primes on a 90 gallon would be pretty underpowered IMO. Your tank is 4 ft long and over 2 feet deep. Primes don't have that much spread and certainly aren't meant to penetrate 2 ft+ depths. My Red Sea Reefer 450 is only 90 gallons in the DT. It's 5 ft long and I'm running 3 Radion XR30s on there. For a 4 ft tank, I'd think that you'd need at least 2 lights of similar power (though certainly cheaper options exist than Radions) if you wanted to support LPS and SPS.

 

[nightmarepl]

What do you mean by "grow stuff?" Algae yes, definitely. Just kidding.

But 2 AI Primes on a 90 gallon would be pretty underpowered IMO. Your tank is 4 ft long and over 2 feet deep. Primes don't have that much spread and certainly aren't meant to penetrate 2 ft+ depths. My Red Sea Reefer 450 is only 90 gallons in the DT. It's 5 ft long and I'm running 3 Radion XR30s on there. For a 4 ft tank, I'd think that you'd need at least 2 lights of similar power (though certainly cheaper options exist than Radions) if you wanted to support LPS and SPS.

yikes was hoping to support LPS atleast hmm thats not the best news now lol