Anybody have a good story about beating Cyanobacteria

[Russell Bennett]

I have a 36 gallon fluval M90 tank (AIO)

I am a newbie

I think was a big over feeder and I have cut that way back. I went lights out 3 days a week ago and it disappeared. Now it is back. I did my weekly 10 gallon water change and sucked most of it up, but it is getting its footing again.

I think the answer is to continue to limit nutrients and increase water changes. I think for now avoiding the chemicals if possible is ideal, but is that running into a wall?

 

[downbeach]

I would take a more holistic approach to dealing with this problem. There are a number of conditions that will cause this problem, individually/collectively, and although one may be the overriding factor, I’d approach each one as the primary, or contributing factor. Starting with using good RO/DI water, if you’re not using it, you’ll be adding the needed nutrients every time you top off, and/or do a WC.

Here is a good article worth reading:


BlueGrAlgae


The use of “Red Slime Removers”, can work in the short term, but if the issues that generated it are not resolved, it will simply keep reoccurring.

I don’t like using it, and would make every effort to solve the problem by other means, as noted in the attached article. I know of a couple circumstances where someone lost their system due to a sudden die off of the red slime algae(BGA/cyano bacteria) releasing toxins into the water.

 

[kschweer]

You're right with reducing nutrients and water changes. Try to remove what you can during the water changes and also try increasing the flow in your tank.

 

[Trio91]

Ignore what I posted, I misread

 

[horseplay]

I have used chemiclean twice as a reset and both times had very good results. Your take will look cleaner than ever. I had cyano when I moved tank and made some big changes. You should not have the problem once your tank is mature and balanced.

 

[Hawkeye]

2nd what horseplay stated - i had a little bit of cyano as i slacked off on maintenance and then on my powerhead seized up - reducing the intank flow. even worse my return pump finally called it quits after 8 years. It would actually still run except the gasket seal had failed and water was leaking but thats another story hah hah.

Anyways - i got a new return pump, utilized chemiclean to kill the large amount of cyano. Immediately after that I siphoned up all the detritus that resulted, cleaned my powerheads - and replaced all my t5 bulbs (which had aged too much). Things are working fine again now since.

Good luck!

 

[MaxDamage984]

How's the flow in your tank? What helped me back in the day is increasing the flow, decreasing nutrients and having a good clean up crew. Flow is very important in fighting cyano imo. Also I used to get as much as I could out with a turkey baster but that's just temporary. I believe flow and feeding less helped.


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[MaxDamage984]

Can always beat it with a stick...


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[Russell Bennett]

I have two power heads - I think I have pretty good flow to most areas that said maybe I should direct them down a little more? I have definitely decreased nutrients and give the gravel a good vacuuming. I am wondering if it is worthwhile for me to do my water change today go lights out 3 days then do another good sand vacuuming water change.

 

[MaxDamage984]

Yeah I would direct them down. I don't know if lights out is really necessary. Do you have a picture of the tank with the algae?


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[Mark_C]

Been there, got the T shirt, and unfortunately I seem to have rocks that bleed phosphates. Have battled cyano and bryopsis since I started the tank but its never gotten out of control.

Know the enemy: Cyanobacteria - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Primary source of phosphates, which feeds algae, is waste and overfeeding. Keep a solid 10-20% per week water change going, its the most important thing you can do for your tank.

Cut back on feeding. I have a 90g with 8 medium/large fish and I feed 1/2 of a block of frozen food per day (split between morning and evening).

If using frozen food, thaw it and rinse in RODI water before adding to tank, or make your own food.

Flow is a good thing to prevent any algae from getting hold, but if algae is going to happen it will find a niche and it grow out from there. Adjust your flow to keep your corals and fish happy, thats most important, then address the algae as a secondary concern.

Deprivation - A 3 day blackout is an option but seems like you've done that. No lights, minimal food, cover the entire tank with paper and improvise a top so no light gets in, none at all, zero. Corals and fish will be fine, algae will not.

Competition - If you have a sump or refugium, add a light to it and grow Cheato, its a plant that outcompetes the algae for food, I can happily give you some or mail you some. If you don't have a sump/fuge there's also a number of macro-algaes that you can grow as 'plants' in the main tank itself that will compete for nutrients, they're a bit harder to grow and are a hit/miss potential solution.

Chemical warfare additive - A lot of folks recommend monitoring your Mg and dosing with 'Tech-M' (specifically), as it kills many algaes. If you do this, I'd recommend dosing no more than 50ml per day and monitoring daily, stopping at around 1400. Theres a multitude of conversations on the net of weather its the Mg or the added chems in Tech-M that kills the algae. Regardless, it does work, short term. It is also expensive and you still have to address the root of the problem. Also, high levels of Mg have a chance of killing your inverts. I've maintained a 1200 level for 2 weeks, didn't lose a snail, killed the algae, and 3 months later algae was back, but again, I think I have rocks bleeding.

Chemical warfare additive II - Haven't tried Chemiclean but if recommended by horse and hawk I'd go with it as an initial treatment.

Chemical warfare additive III - 'Chempure' and 'Chempure Elite' are a bit pricey, but are simple. Open package, remove bag of product, drop in filter/sump/tank. It has fantastic reviews but have never worked noticeably for me (again, bleedy rocks).

Chemical Warfare hardware - Get a small reactor and run GFO or a GFO/carbon mix. The GFO (granulated ferric oxide) absorbs phosphates from the water, reducing its ability to feed the cyano. You can also put a 'Phosban' in the reactor. There are a number of products available for this option, just have to do some research.

Hope this may have given you some insight into the various methods. Unfortunately all tanks are entities in themselves and what works in one may not work in another. Its why this hobby is so much fun - it can bring you to the verge of insanity, then give you a WTF moment, then inspire frustration and potential stress related cardiac arrest, then slam you with some peace and satisfaction as you view a beautiful piece of living art while wondering WTF is going to go wrong next.

 

[Russell Bennett]

nice write up - thanks

somehow I dosed up my mg to 1600- so hopefully there is a positive effect. (moral of the story don't be lazy to test bc you think your usage is dialed in)

I am going to do a water change tonight (did one Sunday)

I am starting to get some type of sponge growing maybe I am on to my next outbreak

 

[Hawkeye]

tech M won't do anything for cyano. it's only effectiveness is for bryopsis. The reason why people are hesitant with chemical use is that it only treats the symptoms, but doesn't address the cause. You say you have two powerheads - and "pretty good flow" - but the reality is if you have cyano, you could have 4 tunzes and it will still grow and flap around in the flow. Something is off in the tank and it's likely to be either bad lighting, inadequate nutrient export, poor flow, too many fish in the size aquarium you have.

 

[Russell Bennett]

If I had to guess over feeding as a newbie lead to a build up of nutrients. Plus the tank is maturing. I have cut back the feeding and might need to do more. Lighting and skimmer is a concern, because that is the hardest spot to get up to speed. The light and skimmer comes with the unit. It is probably not top of the line because powerhead, return pump, stand, tank, light, and skimmer came as a packaged deal for roughly 700. Great to get your feet on the ground. I pushed my skimmer cut to hopefully run a wetter, but frankly I am not satisfied with skimmer production. the light is problematic as well. It is manual so I have it full blast all day. The skimmer and light are kind of the hardest to judge as a newbie. I can link the models if that helps. I also think this is a patiences thing as I think I am hopefully getting a head of it.

 

[Tommyboynj]

Cyano is all part of the process. It gets ugly... QUICK. Unfortunately, most people deal with the symptom and not the cause. Im a firm believer that chemiclean is an absolute last resort. Youre only putting an bandaid on the problem and not solving the issue. All three of the tanks iv had went through cyano issues at one point and i managed to deal with them without resorting the chemiclean. It takes some patience and will power not to throw that stuff in but i think the long term success of a reef hinges on husbandry.

Heres what I have learnt:

Flow - Cyano hates flow. Make sure you have a tone of random flow in your display. This keep detritus suspended, eliminates deadspots and gives it no place to grow (in your display). Your always going to have cyano issues somewhere in your system. But if you have a ton of flow in your display you can let it grow in places you dont care about like you sump or a fuge.

Nutrients - Iv seen plenty of tanks with "high" nutrients without cyano. Most of them where like churning water tornadoes. Iv also see a few ULNS systems go through cyano issues. Remember, cyano is the most basic of organisms. Its the first thing to arrive and the last to leave. You need to manage the nutrient and bacterial balance in your system. When you get an opportunity to grab some live rock/sand from fellow reefer, do so to improve the diversity in your tank.

These things will help you keep cyano in check but to get rid of it you have to be aggressive. Vacuum it out everyday. Black out your tank for a few days. Run Gfo and Carbon. Blast off you live rock every day. And, my magic weapon. Dr Tims waste away. Unlike chemi clean, this stuff will add bacterial diversity to your system. Its potent stuff so you have to be carefull but it will deliver that knockout blow to serious cases of the red tide.

 

[Russell Bennett]

Went on vacation and came back to a real infestation. Since Sunday before last (June 5th) I have done 3 25% water changes.

I would love some advice/commentary on my battle plan, because we are going to the mattresses.

1. Starting today I am going lights out 3 days. I have a little GHA growing in my sump with the reverse lighting schedule. I hope it out competes Cyano. My phosphates are low when I test - will the lights out phase give me a chance for a true reading since cyano won't be eating them up?

2. 36 gallon tank - 10 gallon water change twice a week. (RODI water- always been used). I vacuum the sand bed and scrub rock with tooth brush get get off cyano during change. I am not very happy with Siphon doesn't seem to suck up cyano should I just go to straight 1/2' tube?

3. 2 clowns and 1 royal gramma- going every other day feeding this week. I feed frozen a couple of times a week, but that mean usually the cube cut into at least 8ths.

4. I cleaned skimmer and replaced air tube. It is the fluval PS1 that came with tank. It produces good skim by Wednesday or Tunze 9004 is going in.

5. I clean mini -max reactor and replaced rowaphos- will replace that every week.

6. I am worried Fluval marine/reef leds that came with package could be part of the problem is this realistic? If so maybe 2 AI Primes?

Any other thoughts?

 

[Hawkeye]

use chemiclean. it will kill all that cyano. then you will have copious amounts of detritus/crap - which you should siphon. trash the leds if you think they are also causing it.

phosphate readings are totally not reliable since the cyano is uptaking it before it is measurable in the water column.

Until the situation has stabilized, perhaps stop feeding frozen - that stuff can also be loaded with phosphates. Switch to a dry food. clowns and royal gramma are not fussy eaters. If you insist on frozen food, have a cup of tank water to defrost the food, take food OUT of water and feed. Discard water.

 

[Hawkeye]

or add the tunze skimmer. Whatever it is - the cyano is uptaking nutrients faster than your tank can export them out.

 

[Russell Bennett]

Thanks for advice - Tunze is coming chemiclean is on deck.

 

[Russell Bennett]

I turned the tables starting to win and corals couldn't be happier. Thanks for advice

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