Check Valve?

[Patriot76]

Does anyone know where I can get a 3/4 inch barbed-end check valve? I am in central NJ, I tried both Absolutely Fish in Clifton and Aquatic Obsessions in Avenel.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[Brian]

I might have one if you can wait until I get home from work so I can look for it.

 

[Patriot76]

unless someone else knows a place close by to get one, i can certainly wait till later today.

thanks!

 

[Carlo]

Does anyone know where I can get a 3/4 inch barbed-end check valve? I am in central NJ, I tried both Absolutely Fish in Clifton and Aquatic Obsessions in Avenel.

Thanks,

Bill

If you don't mind a little PVC glueing you can make one from parts at Lowes. I have them around too if needed.

Carlo

 

[Patriot76]

hmmm, i think i am going to go the pre-made route on this one here. the diy things has not be going so well for me the past cpl days.

 

[Carlo]

yes but this DIY can be as easy as buying a checkvalve that's threaded and a threaded barb adapter and screwing them together.

Carlo

 

[Patriot76]

oh well yeah i guess what is pretty easy, didnt know they sold check valves at lowes

 

[pgordemer]

As a failure item goes, check valves are right up there. They get salt clogged easily, and they reduce pressure. You get a real false sense of security.

A simple way to make sure you don't drain too much water back into the sump is have a couple of small holes in the output line just under the water line in the overflow. Once the water gets down to the hole, air gets in and stops the flow.

 

[Brian]

I guess no one wants you to have this check valve!

 

[magic]

Bill

Try any place that installs inground sprinklers, They use 3/4" or 1" flex tubing for the pipe. They should have one.

Bob

 

[Brian]

I found it, it's a true union type, nice and easy to disassemble and clean. I'm in South Plainfield if you're still interested.

 

[reeferwanabe]

this is the one I use. you can unscrew the top and take out the valve to clean it. a bit more expensive but worth the no risk factor. or should I say less risk factor.

 

[DaveK]

Assuming that the check valve is wanted to prevent back siphoning in the return line, pgordemer gave some excellent advice ...

As a failure item goes, check valves are right up there. They get salt clogged easily, and they reduce pressure. You get a real false sense of security.

A simple way to make sure you don't drain too much water back into the sump is have a couple of small holes in the output line just under the water line in the overflow. Once the water gets down to the hole, air gets in and stops the flow.

I have tried several different types of check valves, including the ones shown in the last few posts. It has been my universal experience that in only a few weeks they get clogged up with various things growing on them or getting caught by them. Then they fail to make a good seal when the water flow stops. It only takes a small amount of material to jam a check valve in an open position, making it worthless in stopping the reverse flow. Coraline algae is often the worst offender, when it comes to clogging up check valves.

If you are still going to use one, be sure to clean it at least weekly, and make sure you have some other method to prevent back flow in place. The last think you want is all the fun you get cleaning up after a flood caused by a check valve failure.

 

[Patriot76]

i have plenty of room in my sump in the event of a power outage & check valve failure. but it is good to have a check valve in-line so i can shut of the pumps and not have a full sump.

 

[pgordemer]

i have plenty of room in my sump in the event of a power outage & check valve failure. but it is good to have a check valve in-line so i can shut of the pumps and not have a full sump.

Install a Ball Valve on the intake and return, then you can do whatever you want including fine tuning flow.