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diy 180 and 120 sump

im gonna need some help putting this together,first i would like to start with sump,i want to make the sump of all sumps,what should be included in ittanks2.17.2012 008.jpghope this pic shows up,its a 120 gal sump,please help with ideas,here is the tank im gonna useStand,tank2.13.12 006.jpg,i will be makeing my own stand,i would like to make it a reef tank with easy corals to start,and alot of nice fish thanks in advance 18fisher:anyone
 
The first things you need to determine are:

Is your skimmer will be internal or external. Or, do you want the flexability to run either style skimmer.

What type returm pump will you be running? Internal / External?

Then will your refugium be part of this sump?

Is the 120 a 48"x24" or 60"x18"?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
As Bax pointed out, determine the necessary basics first…..skimmer size and location (and make sure, if internal, you have the space under the stand so that it will fit); and also the return pump…internal and external.

The next consideration is your plumbing. Decide if you want to split off additional connections off your return pump (a manifold).

As far as other niceties, I added the following things to my sump:

1. Conduit brackets to hold the heaters
2. PH bulkhead to make sure the probe didn’t get submerged.
3. Automatic top off unit.
4. Filter sock holder.

You can see these additions in my Tale of the Tank HERE….reply #8
 
thanks for reply ,1 in sump skimmer its pro clear aquatic systems with a rio 2100 for the pump ,yes fuge going in it,,2 return pump will be mag 12,3 i would like a manifold so i can add things as i go,4what is a ph bulkhead,5 yes i want socks ad a drip tray with bio balls,6 how do you make ato,im also gonna run hot and cold water lines to the tank so no more hoses and pumps also gonna drill hole in basement floor so water changes can be easy as open shut off and let it run in the hole in floor,is the skimmer that i talked about any good for my tank or no its a waste of time,or can i use for know then upgrade as i go along, what should come first in sump etc and at the end i want to do this once and leave myself with some things in place to just add it on,i already started the stand that im makeing so it will all be in the wall and look like a pic when done.please keeep the help comeing thanks 18 fisher:anyone
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
. What is a ph bulkhead?


A pH bulkhead is a bulkhead that holds a pH probe. Too many of us just suspend their probes into their sump. The problem with that is that they eventually fall into the sump, getting submerged. Once this happens, the probe is shot…no good…trash. To stop this from happening, I installed this bulkhead. I think the common use for this in on calc reactors, but it works fantastic on a sump, and keeps my pH probe from getting submerged. I had already lost one for it getting submerged.

IMG_1613.jpg



Trash the bio-ball idea…they are just detritus traps on saltwater tanks.


I also don’t understand wanting hot and cold water lines up to the tank. I do hope you are using RO/DI water. If not, consider doing this…..it’s a nust.
 
i was makeing saltwater in a bucket,mixing in the salt,and i do use tap water,thats how my friend has been doing it for years and his tank is fine lots of fish snails crabs and i think some mushrooms,so thats the way i have been doing it,why is ro/di better dosent that cost a lot more,also the water lines where so i could fill a big can of water make saltwater for the ato to draw from,tired of makeing the rug a mess with water,just thought it would be better to have everything right there to use no .you know way more then me im new to this so my ears are wide open also is my skimmer any good or no thanks for your help 18fisher
 
[SIZE=+1]Why should you use RO/DI water?[/SIZE] by Marc Levenson
When getting into the hobby of marine tanks, the basic consideration is water. Without it, nothing in your tank would live for long. Compared to freshwater tanks, marine tanks need excellent water quality to maintain success. So what water is available to the average person?

  • Tap Water - anything can be in your tap water, and most are undesirable for your tank.​
  • Well Water - similar to above, with the risk of metals and high alkalinity​
  • Distilled Water - available in many food stores, supposedly pure.​
  • Reverse Osmosis &/or De-Ionized water - available as above, as well as at your LFS​
One of the things about water is you simply don't know what is in it until you test it yourself. Fluoride, Chlorine, Chloramines, Nitrates, Phosphates, and even metals.... none of which can be added to your marine tank safely. Many of these compounds will create nuisance algae and may even lead to premature death of various livestock. Buying water from stores that promise it is filtered may be safe, but you don't really know when they changed their filters, do you? The water at the LFS may be safe to use, if they are keeping up with the schedule of changing their filters. Look in the LFS display tanks. Are they algae free, or is there an outbreak in many tanks? If you see a lot of algae, their water might not be the best choice to use.
If you opt to use tap water because it saves you money, you'll need to add some type of de chlorinator to protect your livestock from chlorine. Seachem's Prime is excellent, and I used it for years. But how much does that cost over time? And how much is your time worth, when you have to spend hours and hours battling green hair algae or worse?
Getting an RO/DI unit of your own is the best decision you will ever make. The up front cost of a unit can vary depending on where you buy it. There are many styles with a variety of options, and they can range from about $100 to $300 or more. Many choose to buy units from vendors on Ebay, and others shop the various online stores. When shopping, here are a few things to consider:
Gallons Per Day - How quickly do you want to make water? A 100gpd unit will produce a little over 4 gallons an hour, under ideal conditions. When you need water in a hurry, you don't want to be waiting for a 25 or 50gpd unit to produce water!
Filter Sizes - The common filter size is 10", and if you buy a unit with that size, you'll be able to shop around for refill cartridges from many vendors. If the filter sizes are unique, you will have to continue to buy them from the original vendor and pray he stays in business or at least provide you with another resource if he doesn't continue selling them.
Clear Canisters - If you get a unit with solid white 'sumps', you can't tell what is going on. Clear acrylic sumps allow you to see if water is in each section, and you can visually inspect the unit to see when something needs changing.
The benefit of having a unit in your home is that you can make pure water as you need it. Installation takes about 10 minutes. You won't have to carry heavy containers of water (5 or more gallons weighs a lot!) out of the store, load it into your vehicle, then unload it at your house and carry it to your tank. Another benefit is you know exactly when your filters were changed last. You can even test your unit to make sure your water is safe. A TDS meter will measure the water quality -- zero is the goal. A cheap Chlorine test will tell you if your carbon filters need replacing. The DI cartridge changes colors from black to brown indicating when it has been consumed. Finally, if the output is remarkably slower than when you first installed it, it is time to replace filters or possibly the membrane.
An additional benefit with some units is the ability to make your own drinking water, by collecting water from the RO section (before the DI can process it). Clean drinking water is a must in most homes, and a RO/DI unit can provide that 24 hours a day.
Maintenance is easy. Change the filters (sediment and carbon) every 6 months and the DI once a year. The RO membrane should be good for 3 to 5 years. There is very little that can go wrong with a unit, but if you do run into a problem, the vendor or many of our club members can quickly help you get that resolved.
If you add up the cost of the water you are purchasing (or the chemicals you buy to de chlorinate your tap water), you can see that in very little time an RO/DI unit will pay for itself. And your marine tank will look the better for it!

I'm not familiar with your skimmer, but if it came with a rio pump, it may be a budget type device. If it works, it works. There are a lot of good skimmers available, at reasonable prices. A quality skimmer, along with the RO/DI unit, is one of the most important pieces of equipment you should have.

These folks are a club sponsor, and offer discounts to our paid members:

http://www.airwaterice.com/

This would be a good one:

http://www.airwaterice.com/c=jwX0kG...N/Typhoon-5-stage-RODI-Reefkeeper-75-GPD.html

You might want to check with your water supplier to see if they use chlorine or chloramine as a disinfectant. If they use chloramines, you will have to get a chloramine specific carbon block.

If you have any questions, Cliff @ AWI will help.
 
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thank you for the tips and the link,learned alot, also what are the best things to have in a sump,i know the skimmer and retun pump and socks but as far as media goes just live rock no pads or sponges, ive seen so many dif ways of doing it on utube :confusion: like i was going to put bio balls in and its been said thats a no no ?. also can i use the ro/di water for my freshwater tanks or no.sounds like i can but just want to check,ok gonna try to put up some pics of what im building as far as the stand goes,thank again everyone for putting up with my:stupid: ? 18fisher
 
There are many ways to configure a sump and/or refugium, and just as many opinions on which one works the best. I think you're at a stage where a little reading/study would be in order, and then you can decide which way you'd like to go. Here are a few articles that will help.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-01/gt/index.php

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/gt/index.php

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/gt/index.php

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-06/rs/feature/index.php

You will find that reading this may only lead to more questions, but that's good because that's where knowledge comes from, and we are here to answer the questions, even if it means more reading. :eek:
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
.... also can i use the ro/di water for my freshwater tanks or no.sounds like i can but just want to check...


You really don’t want to use RO/DI water for freshwater unless your tap water is so bad that you need to strip out some “bad” stuff…like high nitrates. If you do use RO/DI water, you then need to add back ions…such as salt and baking soda…so that the fish have the right ionic balance. Again, don’t do it unless your water is so bad….which is unlikely in NJ.
 
Though you can use it for top-off on freshwater. Just not for water change (without adding things back in, as Paul said)
 
very good thank you for the help guys,i think i got the sump some what fig out, but as far as lights,i think im gonna go with led,any ideas for a good starter light again i would like the tank to be fowlr,tank and to start with some of the easy corals,at same time keep my electric bill down,its been way to hot to work on stand but im hopeing this weekend to get alot done,pics are comeing thanks again 18fisher
 
You might consider a used t-5 fixture for start up, minimal investment, good lighting and relatively low power consumption.
 
as far as the ro unit goes ,once water comes out is it pos to run a line from the out side ,20 or 30 feet away to my holding tank or no,if that wont work ill prob just run a water line over to tank,then put it in the ro unit with float,is it worth getting the alarm and pressure gauge,i know its more but if its worth it might have to do it, 18fisher
 
hey its been alittle while but i did get three pcs of glass cut to add to the sump so know i will have a big fuge, also painted stand top and inside some how i will get some pics up,trying to find a good skimmer now i8fisher
 

magic

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
i was makeing saltwater in a bucket,mixing in the salt,and i do use tap water,thats how my friend has been doing it for years and his tank is fine lots of fish snails crabs and i think some mushrooms,so thats the way i have been doing it,why is ro/di better dosent that cost a lot more,also the water lines where so i could fill a big can of water make saltwater for the ato to draw from,tired of makeing the rug a mess with water,just thought it would be better to have everything right there to use no .you know way more then me im new to this so my ears are wide open also is my skimmer any good or no thanks for your help 18fisher

fisher

Don't use saltwater for your topoff. The water that is evaporating from your tank is fresh the salt is left behind and by using fresh the salinity level will stay the same. You can use saltwater to bump up the SG a little.

Bob
 
thats where i was getting confused, so you only put salt in when you are doing water change,not to top it of,so when i top of the tank ,just put ro water right in tank right ,nothing else needed . thank you guys have been a great help so far,what would be better one pump to run everything or 2or3 pumps for skimmer,return pump,uv etc thank again guys hope to have tank on stand sump in place and start the plumbing this weekend 18fisher
 

mnat

Officer Emeritus
Staff member
Moderator
What a lot of people will do is use one return pump that is rated higher than their tank and build a manifold off of that and use just the one pump to fill all the devices. This cuts down on the wires and buying a bunch of pumps and making sure you have the right pump for each piece. With a couple of valves you can control the water flow. The one thing I would probably run off of its own pump in the skimmer as skimmers nowadays have very specific pumps for each skimmer and not having that pump could severly reduce the performance of your skimmer (unless of course you are running external).
 

magic

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
thats where i was getting confused, so you only put salt in when you are doing water change,not to top it of,so when i top of the tank ,just put ro water right in tank right ,nothing else needed . thank you guys have been a great help so far,what would be better one pump to run everything or 2or3 pumps for skimmer,return pump,uv etc thank again guys hope to have tank on stand sump in place and start the plumbing this weekend 18fisher

Now you've got it.

Bob
 
sorry guys could not get on this site for my life,something with computer,ill get some updates up on here real soon thanks again guys 18fisher
 
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