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diy overflow mounted on back of tank

Brian

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I think placement soley depends on where you would like it. Your best bet is probably right in the middle, as wide as you can make it. Some people go the "coast to coast" route. (entire lengtht of the tank) If I had the room for it I probably would have done that myself.
 
wow---a 6 ft overflow!!!! now that would be a site to see
ok---more thinking, the tanks gonna be in the basement, so theres plenty of room. i always wanted to set up a big tank so you can walk around it to see in from all 4 sides. i guess being careful around the 1 area where all the pipes and stuff come from the tank to go into the sump you would be able to walk around it.
but if theres 1 big or 2 small overflows on the back, theres not much space left to look in from
steve
 

Brian

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
If you really wanted 4 sided viewing you could make the drains in the middle of the tank. Then all the plumbing could run underneath the tank. It would give you viewing of all 4 sides but may look a little weird.
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
ReefDrumz said:
If you really wanted 4 sided viewing you could make the drains in the middle of the tank. Then all the plumbing could run underneath the tank. It would give you viewing of all 4 sides but may look a little weird.

That's how our 125g frag tank is. It's OK for a frag tank and I'd imagine with some cleaver aquascaping you could make it work for a display tank. The problem is that the bottom of your tank may have tempered glass, making it impossible to cut.
 
i just noticed that the glass on my 125 gal is half inch thick, will this be a problem using the rotozip tool to cut out for the overflow?
steve
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I cut holes in a 55 with 1/2" glass using a dremel tool and straight diamond bit. Oh, it took a while but it worked! The secret I found is to go around the cut line a few times to create a shallow channel. Then do a plunge cut to create a hole (do this slowly with very little pressure, keeping it wet). Once you get all the way through the glass, lay the bit on the cut line on a pretty flat angle (maybe 45*) to make long groove. As you start creating a good depth groove straighted up the blade and cut to the end of the groove. (Wow, OK that probably didn't make any sense! but you'll figure it out as you go). Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty easily.

Good luck!
 
ok---i think i understand---so using the rotozip tool, keeping the area wet and do you think a tile bit should work, or do i need to get a diamond bit
steve
 
ok---when cutting the glass is a mask a good idea to wear or does the water get dust down? with using water do i use running water or build a type of wall around the cutting artea and fill that with water?
thanks
steve
 

Brian

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
When we drilled my tank (We being Steve68 and Tiler) We used Duct Tape to create a dam around the hole we were drilling, that helped to keep the water in there, although you will need to add more as you drill and the water starts pouring out of the hole you are making. I wouldn't worry about a mask, but I wouldn't go putting your face right next to the drill bit! lol

Good Luck!
 
hey---do any of you guys live around the north -east brunswick area---would be nice to have experienced hands and eyes possibly helping with this size tank---was just thinking out loud
steve
 
hurtback said:
ok---when cutting the glass is a mask a good idea to wear or does the water get dust down? with using water do i use running water or build a type of wall around the cutting artea and fill that with water?
thanks
steve

Definitively use the glasses, better safe then sorry. I got a few small drops splashed in my face when i was drilling my tank. Most of the glass that is removed will be really fine sand but you still might have small chips in it that could be whirled out at great speed by the drill, in the normal circumstances, let alone if something really gos wrong.You can use a tape as previously suggested or a piece of clay as I did (you can create a nice wall around. Just don't use the clay for kids - it dissolves in the water. Also you might want to tape a piece of plastic or some shallow container below the the cut, so that it can collect and keep the water once you made the cut all the way through the glass. It is a convenient not to worry if and where your water will run off.
 
mladencovic said:
Overflow box is not necessary at all for surface disturbance and the skimming of the surface film. Of course, assumption here is that return flow will not be too high, so that hole is not totaly submerged and that at least some of the surface will extend into the hole, but this assumption MUST hold for the overflow box as well, or it won't be skimming the surface water either. As for the noise, I agree that the overflow box is convnient for a durso standpipe, but the same principle could be achieved without the whole box. You just need to muffle the resonance of the air bubbles that are sucked in with the water.

i think it comes down to 2 things money & looks, an old friend bob AKA RJ1966 had a 210 with two 2 inch holes on the back of the tank one on each side & he had to point powerheads to the top front of the tank to get rid of the scum that was building up.
it did work but dint look that sweet, he is the one that showed me the light with the tile bit, when we did my 50 we both said this is the only way to go it just looked so much more sweet having it on the outside.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
He's returned! :D Good to see you Steve! This thread's been summoning you!
 

Edwardw771

NJRC Member
I have a fourty gallon tank I'd love to try this on. Anyone want to demo it at a meeting??? I'll buy all the stuff.
 
hey, if someone's gonna demo a small tank, i can bring my 125 gal so they can demo on a bigger tank---this way we get to see both demo's at the same time---good idea uh?
steve
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Not to be a downer but my experience is that demo's of this magnitude never really work at meetings. The problem is that they take way too long and there is too much other stuff going on. You really only have like an hour to an hour and a half at most to FULLY do a demo. That means, prepping the area and setting up, assembling all of the people, doing the demo, breaking everything down, putting everything away and cleaning up.

You may be able to get away with one aspect of it at a meeting, but any more than that is unmanageable. For example, you could demo the glass cutting, or how to assemble the overflow box (probably only one leg though, because of dry times required) but that would be about it.

My suggestion would be to plan a day or two with those people interested and get together for that specifically. Plan to spend about 50% longer than you think it would take because demo-ing takes a bit longer than just doing.
 
hey john---i was only kidding bout bringing a 125 tank to the meeting---i realize that a meeting is for alot of people, not just a few who need to have something done, and of course, drilling tanks wont interest everyone who's there---i would'nt mind meeting up with a few others ,and with someone who's done this type of work on tanks, to go thru and get my tank cut---i'm open to other suggestions if others are interested in this also...and thanks for all the info you've given me already, its just that doing something like this on a tank this size or bigger, just makes me a wee bit nervous
anyway---lets hear from others who might be interested

steve
 
bring it to my house & i'll show u how it's done.
i'm working on a canopy for a friend now & tools are all over the place :)
 
I am definitely interested. I have a 72 bowfront that I would like to make an external overflow. While I'm at it, I would like to drill a 2" hole for a closed loop. Please, let me know if you guys/gals are going to get together and do this. I just need to know a few days in advance so that I can drain out the tank. I would like to make the overflow to accommodate two 1" holes with stand pipes.
 
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