Ran into a problem... Getting ready to set the tank up, almost ready to get it wet. Was sitting down waiting for some RODI and looked over at my tank to notice a slight gap between the center of the tank and stand. Appears that the stand top is a little warped in the center, don't know how i missed it. It isn't that bad, id say around a 1/16" of a gap in the center at the worst. All four corners are level and the sides are 100% level. How much of an issue is this going to be? Id assume the stand will settle a bit but will this stress the tank seams at all?
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DIY stand
- Thread starter Arce
- Start date
That’s not good.
I went back and looked at your build
It looks like you topped the stand with maybe ¾ ply….so I can't figure how or why the tank wouldn’t sit flush. Something is not kosher. That tank needs to be sitting flush to the top.
I went back and looked at your build
It looks like you topped the stand with maybe ¾ ply….so I can't figure how or why the tank wouldn’t sit flush. Something is not kosher. That tank needs to be sitting flush to the top.
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I actually used this...
http://www.lowes.com/pd_20190-99899...n&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=15%22+aspen&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_20190-99899...n&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=15%22+aspen&facetInfo=
Nice looking stuff! Now rip it off and put on plywood!
Natural woods look real pretty, but are as unstable as a stick of nitroglycerine at a rock concert. They will warp, twist and contort in all different directions Again, stick on some plywood, with a solid wood edge to make it look pretty, and that tank will sit flat!
Just took off the top, noticed that the 2x4 in the front is actually not level, chances are i probably bent the top when i was screwing it down. I don't remember it being this bad when i built it. Now i have to pretty much take this apart and redo it due to a small 1/16" problem.....frustrating.
You can use that nice looking aspen to trim the edge. You rip that at 1 inch wide and use it to go around the plywood to hide the plywood edge. Here's a top view:
Dimensional lumber (2 x 4's) is like nitroglycerine as well…..that’s why you top with plywood. Again, use ¾ ply as your top and it will level everything out.
So I have to pretty much take the whole thing apart. Its going to suck to take the plywood and trim off. Ill replace the top 2x4s and get some 3/4" plywood for the top. What if I used something like this...
http://www.lowes.com/pd_59309-19-19...entURL=?Ntt=corner+moulding&page=2&facetInfo=
... and trimed out the plywood and just mitre the edges of the trim. I used the wood version of that to trim the corners of the stand which you can see in the pictures. Figure this could be an easy solution and shouldn't look too bad. Any ideas?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_59309-19-19...entURL=?Ntt=corner+moulding&page=2&facetInfo=
... and trimed out the plywood and just mitre the edges of the trim. I used the wood version of that to trim the corners of the stand which you can see in the pictures. Figure this could be an easy solution and shouldn't look too bad. Any ideas?
You only need to replace the top…..using ¾ ply. If you wish (or the gap is that big), simply shim the gap with a wood shims.
As far at the edge trim on the plywood, you could use that corner trim. However you’ll now have that raised portion on the top of the stand…..a lip. I’ve always trimmed the ends of plywood with flat stock. Use lattice molding or, if you have the tools, rip that aspen to width. This molding is flush to the top and may extend past the bottom edge, especially is you want that thicker look. Miter the corners and apply this molding with wood glue and some finishing nails. There is no need to trim the back of the top, if the stand is going up against a wall. If you wish, I could do this for you…..at your house. You’re only across the river.
As far at the edge trim on the plywood, you could use that corner trim. However you’ll now have that raised portion on the top of the stand…..a lip. I’ve always trimmed the ends of plywood with flat stock. Use lattice molding or, if you have the tools, rip that aspen to width. This molding is flush to the top and may extend past the bottom edge, especially is you want that thicker look. Miter the corners and apply this molding with wood glue and some finishing nails. There is no need to trim the back of the top, if the stand is going up against a wall. If you wish, I could do this for you…..at your house. You’re only across the river.
Thank you for the offer and info Paul.
I think what im going to do is buy the plywood, throw it ontop of the stand, and see how off the 2x4 frame is. I put the tank ontop last night to kind of use it as a guide to see how off it was and i would say at its worst its maybe 1/8". The corners all seem squared away so ill just try to shim it as you said. For the top trim ill see what i choose to do. Out of ease of doing it i might just use the corner trim, wouldnt mind the lip on the top but ill see.
I think what im going to do is buy the plywood, throw it ontop of the stand, and see how off the 2x4 frame is. I put the tank ontop last night to kind of use it as a guide to see how off it was and i would say at its worst its maybe 1/8". The corners all seem squared away so ill just try to shim it as you said. For the top trim ill see what i choose to do. Out of ease of doing it i might just use the corner trim, wouldnt mind the lip on the top but ill see.
Just took a look at the stand, the gap isn't horrible and with shims i think i can easily fix this. Im going to do the 3/4 ply and then use that corner trim to cover the edge. I think it will look good with the lip on the top, i have some left over and tested it out and i like how it looks.
Thanks for all the advice Paul, i was so frustrated i wouldn't have thought of shimming it.
Thanks for all the advice Paul, i was so frustrated i wouldn't have thought of shimming it.