I was asked recently how I hatch brine shrimp for my dwarfs. So I thought I would share.
I have to admit that this is the worst part of having seaponies because it takes so much time and space.
The eggs need to hatch in salt water. I use regular non iodized salt from supermarket mixed to a salinity of 1.018. Any higher I found hatched hydroids with the bbs. I have a small ice tea bottle that I fill with dechlorinated water (about 2 cups) and 2 tsp salt. This works to 1.018 for me. You need to find your container and mix, once you have that, it will be easier. Some people add baking soda, I don't.
Once hatched, the bbs will go to the bottom of container while the empty shells will float to the top.
If you buy decapsulated brine shrimp eggs, make sure they are listed as "hatching" or they will not hatch. Decapsulating makes the shrimp hatch quicker. They will be smaller but it makes them more nutritious since they don't have to work as hard to get out of their shell. Decapping will make it less likely to have hydroids but it is still possible so still need to rinse with fresh water. And makes separation easier since the shells are gone.
You can decap your own eggs using bleach. (youtube) It's a matter of practice getting it right. I still haven't but getting closer lol
Fresh water kills hydroids immediately so it is important to always rinse with fresh water (use a brine shrimp net or sieve) before either feeding or putting into grow out tank to kill any pests. I will put them in a container of freshwater for few minutes (no longer then 10 minutes or they die) to make sure I kill those buggers. I will also rinse with fresh water again if feeding from the grow out tank, just to be sure.
The Hobby Hatchery works well without bubbles or light but you won't get enough to feed large seahorse babies...there are usually a lot of them.
Dwarf people will get two or three of these hatcheries and rotate off of them every 24 to 48 hours, absolutely loving it. I made mine out of Chinese food container and PVC and will use it but most times will use it to separate the hatched egg shells from the bubble hatchery.
You cannot use decapsulated eggs in this hatchery.
The bubble hatchery is more effective. There are many tutorials (youtube) on how to make them (although soda bottles have gotten pretty thin lately) Some will have the air hose going thru the top and others will show how to go thru the cap. The cap one makes it easier to harvest the bbs that will settle to the bottom while the egg shells float to the top.
You can also buy different ready made hatcheries.
This is mine. I do not have heat or light and still get a great hatch.
First glass is hatching, container is for growing out, last glass is gut loading... the grow out container has gotten larger and I now have a pod container.
And yes, those are expensive glasses that we got for our wedding and never used lol I didn't like the look of the soda bottles.
With this set up, I have to suck up the bbs from the bottom of the glass. I found that if I put small pieces of paper towel on the top, the empty egg shells will stick to them. This takes time but makes it easier to harvest. You don't want the dwarfs or babies to eat empty shells.
Don't hatch too soon or they will be too big for the babies to eat. The bbs will hatch between 12 to 24 hours so think a day ahead.
Adult dwarfs will eat the adult brine shrimp but would rather the smaller ones.
Also and important, the bbs lose their nutritional value after 72 hours. At that point, they change and start being able to eat. They don't have mouths until then. So it is important to feed/gut load the brine shrimp before feeding them to seahorses once they are over 72 hours old.
I use Spirulina, Selcon and/or Dan's feed with occasional Zoe to gut load them... allow the bbs to eat/gut load the 12 hours before feeding to horses. Without doing this, the seahorses will be eating but starving at the same time.
Feeding copepods are also recommended and nutritious.
Last thought... Do not get any system that hatches directly into the tank. Hydroids will be a problem.
Welcome to the hobby
I have to admit that this is the worst part of having seaponies because it takes so much time and space.
The eggs need to hatch in salt water. I use regular non iodized salt from supermarket mixed to a salinity of 1.018. Any higher I found hatched hydroids with the bbs. I have a small ice tea bottle that I fill with dechlorinated water (about 2 cups) and 2 tsp salt. This works to 1.018 for me. You need to find your container and mix, once you have that, it will be easier. Some people add baking soda, I don't.
Once hatched, the bbs will go to the bottom of container while the empty shells will float to the top.
If you buy decapsulated brine shrimp eggs, make sure they are listed as "hatching" or they will not hatch. Decapsulating makes the shrimp hatch quicker. They will be smaller but it makes them more nutritious since they don't have to work as hard to get out of their shell. Decapping will make it less likely to have hydroids but it is still possible so still need to rinse with fresh water. And makes separation easier since the shells are gone.
You can decap your own eggs using bleach. (youtube) It's a matter of practice getting it right. I still haven't but getting closer lol
Fresh water kills hydroids immediately so it is important to always rinse with fresh water (use a brine shrimp net or sieve) before either feeding or putting into grow out tank to kill any pests. I will put them in a container of freshwater for few minutes (no longer then 10 minutes or they die) to make sure I kill those buggers. I will also rinse with fresh water again if feeding from the grow out tank, just to be sure.
The Hobby Hatchery works well without bubbles or light but you won't get enough to feed large seahorse babies...there are usually a lot of them.
Dwarf people will get two or three of these hatcheries and rotate off of them every 24 to 48 hours, absolutely loving it. I made mine out of Chinese food container and PVC and will use it but most times will use it to separate the hatched egg shells from the bubble hatchery.
You cannot use decapsulated eggs in this hatchery.
The bubble hatchery is more effective. There are many tutorials (youtube) on how to make them (although soda bottles have gotten pretty thin lately) Some will have the air hose going thru the top and others will show how to go thru the cap. The cap one makes it easier to harvest the bbs that will settle to the bottom while the egg shells float to the top.
You can also buy different ready made hatcheries.
This is mine. I do not have heat or light and still get a great hatch.
First glass is hatching, container is for growing out, last glass is gut loading... the grow out container has gotten larger and I now have a pod container.
And yes, those are expensive glasses that we got for our wedding and never used lol I didn't like the look of the soda bottles.
With this set up, I have to suck up the bbs from the bottom of the glass. I found that if I put small pieces of paper towel on the top, the empty egg shells will stick to them. This takes time but makes it easier to harvest. You don't want the dwarfs or babies to eat empty shells.
Don't hatch too soon or they will be too big for the babies to eat. The bbs will hatch between 12 to 24 hours so think a day ahead.
Adult dwarfs will eat the adult brine shrimp but would rather the smaller ones.
Also and important, the bbs lose their nutritional value after 72 hours. At that point, they change and start being able to eat. They don't have mouths until then. So it is important to feed/gut load the brine shrimp before feeding them to seahorses once they are over 72 hours old.
I use Spirulina, Selcon and/or Dan's feed with occasional Zoe to gut load them... allow the bbs to eat/gut load the 12 hours before feeding to horses. Without doing this, the seahorses will be eating but starving at the same time.
Feeding copepods are also recommended and nutritious.
Last thought... Do not get any system that hatches directly into the tank. Hydroids will be a problem.
Welcome to the hobby
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