• Folks, if you've recently upgraded or renewed your annual club membership but it's still not active, please reach out to the BOD or a moderator. The PayPal system has a slight bug which it doesn't allow it to activate the account on it's own.

First Reef Tank - Beginning the Journey

Consider updating your location too. That's usually where I look to see if you're local enough to pick stuff up if you wanted to. I have some tanks in the garage, if you were going to build your own baffles, you can cut them down to size and silicone them in. But if you're 2.5 hours away, no point in offering. :D

20200505_161700.jpg
 
Consider updating your location too. That's usually where I look to see if you're local enough to pick stuff up if you wanted to. I have some tanks in the garage, if you were going to build your own baffles, you can cut them down to size and silicone them in. But if you're 2.5 hours away, no point in offering. :D

View attachment 29239
Just updated location and went out and bought that 20 gallon thanks to @amado !
 
There should be a few reefers right where you are! Great place to be.
For my 40 gallon breeder, I used plexiglass from home depot for the baffles. If you want to use glass, cut up a couple of 10 gallon tanks, should fit nicely as baffles for your 20L.
 
There should be a few reefers right where you are! Great place to be.
For my 40 gallon breeder, I used plexiglass from home depot for the baffles. If you want to use glass, cut up a couple of 10 gallon tanks, should fit nicely as baffles for your 20L.

Nice tip using those 10G tanks. Now I just need to figure out where to drill all the holes in my tank. Was thinking two returns on both top corners 3/4 and three 1 inch in the center. Have not found a solution for a good overflow box. I want to drill all the possible holes now so I don’t have to do it on an active tank in the future.
 

Mark_C

Staff member
Officer Emeritus
NJRC Member
Moderator
I went with these on a number of previous tanks and will happily use them in the future (and currently have one on a 40b going on 3 years now)...
They also come with a hard plastic drilling template for the tank.

CPR also does some high quality build, over the top, no drilling boxes, though I've heard about problems if the flow is interrupted...
 
I went with these on a number of previous tanks and will happily use them in the future (and currently have one on a 40b going on 3 years now)...
They also come with a hard plastic drilling template for the tank.

CPR also does some high quality build, over the top, no drilling boxes, though I've heard about problems if the flow is interrupted...

Thanks Mark, looks like they come with everything I need including the hole saw.
 
Alright Everyone,

So I have been working on this setup since I sent my first post.

I would like to thanks some of the members here and everyone on this thread for the advice and items they have given me. I have also used a lot of the resources and posts from many of the members.

Specifically I would like to thank:

@amado for RODI unit
@diana a for advice on Fuji baffle kit
@Wilson for life/live rock
@Mark_C for advice on HOB overflow (even though I think I am not sure I am going to be able to sleep at night) :)

Here are some photos.


Built this frame to hold RODI Brute storage containers. I think I found some plans on this site, I made some modifications.
IMG_3602.jpg

RODI Setup Room (Left RODI Water, Right Salt Water Mixing).

IMG_3639.jpg

Tank with new lights setup.

IMG_3565.jpg

Tank starting to get Diatoms. Not sure when to add clean up crews. Wait until green algae? This was taken today

IMG_3837.jpg

Starfish and I think Hydroid Jellyfish. I think I also see a Zoanthid growing out of the live rock since I turned on the lights a few weeks ago.

IMG_3672.jpg

Sump setup, 20 gallon long Aqueon with Fuji baffle kit. Breaking in the new reef octopus skimmer. Nothing in refugium yet. Also have a small battery backup unit.

IMG_3839.jpg

Water tests below:

I have had zero Nitrites from the beginning. I am guessing its due to the live rock. Pretty consistent Ammonia and Nitrite levels. Nitrate rises as expected. I have done two water changes and you can see the dips in the graph. Will start doing them weekly once I am ready for clean up crew.

IMG_3843.PNG

What do you guys think? When would you add cleanup crews? Any suggestions for fish corals/inverts etc.
 
I am new to this thread. But just read through it (very nice). As far as cleanup crew. I don’t personally add any until There is something for them to clean up like fish poop and food. Yes there are members of the CUC that just deal with algae. But that shouldn’t be a big deal as you shouldn’t be running a light schedule until you have inhabitants (I apologize if I missed the part were you have Already added a fish) so in short. Add CUC when you add fish. Or anything else that requires food.
 
Tha
I am new to this thread. But just read through it (very nice). As far as cleanup crew. I don’t personally add any until There is something for them to clean up like fish poop and food. Yes there are members of the CUC that just deal with algae. But that shouldn’t be a big deal as you shouldn’t be running a light schedule until you have inhabitants (I apologize if I missed the part were you have Already added a fish) so in short. Add CUC when you add fish. Or anything else that requires food.
Thanks for the input, no fish yet.
 

amado

Dal
Staff member
Board of Directors
NJRC Member
This looks awesome. I really like the water change station. You did a really good job.
I wouldn’t turn on the lights for the firstfew months. You can add fish and bacteria.
 
This looks awesome. I really like the water change station. You did a really good job.
I wouldn’t turn on the lights for the firstfew months. You can add fish and bacteria.
Will turning the lights back off kill the Zoanthid that started growing? What kind of fish would be good to add first? Any good places that do a good job of keeping them healthy before selling?
 
Will turning the lights back off kill the Zoanthid that started growing? What kind of fish would be good to add first? Any good places that do a good job of keeping them healthy before selling?
What kind of Zoa. I ask because some can survive on way less light than you might think. (They May not grow, but will survive just fine for months). There is a tendency in this hobby for people to treat all things reef related like they are SPS and blasting them with way to much light. But that’s a huge subject for another time. if you are ready to add fish. I would start with the hardiest type of fish you can find wich is generally accepted to be in the damsel family And of all the damsels. The clown fish is typically loved by all. This is even more true than ever because there are now so many “designer “ or cross bred clowns. But this choice is very personal... After all, You may not like clown fish.
 

amado

Dal
Staff member
Board of Directors
NJRC Member
Will turning the lights back off kill the Zoanthid that started growing? What kind of fish would be good to add first? Any good places that do a good job of keeping them healthy before selling?

I would start with some clowns. There are some local breeders on this site.

this was the stock list check with him to confirm @jhopiv
Pair of snowflake one is premium - $100
Pair of tomato mated - $ $100
Pair of true purcula , one is a missbar - mated - $100
Pair of osceoarua clown fish mated - $45
Qty 40 - 1.5 year old true perculas - $15 each - I can do a lot better if you buy more then 2
Qty 1 - 1.5 year old frostbite - $25
Qty 1 - 1.5 year old Lightning maroon - $25
Coral Beauty - $30
 
What kind of Zoa. I ask because some can survive on way less light than you might think. (They May not grow, but will survive just fine for months). There is a tendency in this hobby for people to treat all things reef related like they are SPS and blasting them with way to much light. But that’s a huge subject for another time. if you are ready to add fish. I would start with the hardiest type of fish you can find wich is generally accepted to be in the damsel family And of all the damsels. The clown fish is typically loved by all. This is even more true than ever because there are now so many “designer “ or cross bred clowns. But this choice is very personal... After all, You may not like clown fish.
No idea it’s tiny and it’s hard to get a photo of it. I had the lights off for a few weeks before and did not even know it existed. I will try to get a picture of it.
 
No idea it’s tiny and it’s hard to get a photo of it. I had the lights off for a few weeks before and did not even know it existed. I will try to get a picture of it.
Picture would be great. But based on this info. I am personally confident that it WILL survive with lights off and ambient room light. If you see a drastic change to the zoa after lights are off for an extended period than just use lights at a low par for less time than you would run a full set up. Something like 2 hours a day.
 
I
Picture would be great. But based on this info. I am personally confident that it WILL survive with lights off and ambient room light. If you see a drastic change to the zoa after lights are off for an extended period than just use lights at a low par for less time than you would run a full set up. Something like 2 hours a day.
did notice they open up when the lights turn on and then close up near the end of the day while the lights are still on.
 
I

did notice they open up when the lights turn on and then close up near the end of the day while the lights are still on.
My apologies....I must remember you are a pinch newer to reefing than me. When I said if you see a change without the lights. I meant signs of death like melting or shrinking and a drastic loss of color. ALL corals “close up” when lights go out. That’s not what I am referring to. Unfortunately death and closing up at night can look similar and only time watching your reef will teach you the difference. You will find That an established tank with lights on and the same tank at night are two different worlds at night some will suck completely into there skeleton others will extend tenticles for protection or feeding. The list goes on. You could write a book on the multitude of nocturnal changes that take place on a reef.
 
My apologies....I must remember you are a pinch newer to reefing than me. When I said if you see a change without the lights. I meant signs of death like melting or shrinking and a drastic loss of color. ALL corals “close up” when lights go out. That’s not what I am referring to. Unfortunately death and closing up at night can look similar and only time watching your reef will teach you the difference. You will find That an established tank with lights on and the same tank at night are two different worlds at night some will suck completely into there skeleton others will extend tenticles for protection or feeding. The list goes on. You could write a book on the multitude of nocturnal changes that take place on a reef.
It’s looking like this one closes after it gets enough light, before the lights turn off. It does seem like it might be getting too much light. Unfortunately it appeared in a bad location closest to the lights. Not sure if they can be moved without dying. @Wilson might know what kind it is since it came from his rock.
 
Top