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Greetings from a Newbie

Hello all,

I am new to the hobby. Started a year and a half ago with a 20 gallon high. Had success and wanted to upgrade. Upgraded to a 55g and all is well but upgrades are needed. My current equipment is a MP10wQD, MP40WQD (just added), and 2 XR15s (not pictured because they arent installed yet). I have a Bubble Magus Curve 5 and a 10 gallon diy sump that hasn't been installed yet (running a HOB AC70 for filtration). My issue is programming both the XR15s and the MPs. Also I am worried about the placement of the heads. I have the 40 on the top right touching the back glass and the 10 is top left toward the front glass. Any suggestions/comments are welcome.

Looking to run a mixed reef. Currently do a 10 gallon wc weekly to stay in front of the nitrates and phosphates. Sorry for the dirty glass was trying to catch a fish.
 

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DangerDave

NJRC Member
Welcome to NJRC! I program my vortechs through apex. I can make a recommendation on placement though, I would place them on the left and right sides of the tank facing each other about 2/3 from the top.
Good luck!

Dave
 

Mark_C

Staff member
Officer Emeritus
NJRC Member
Moderator
Welcome aboard!
Dave and I are the good looks and intelligence of the crew, you can tell because we respond first, as all good looking intelligent people do.
Sponge gave a thumbs up, but he's sorta on the outskirts trying to get in.

Seriously, we have a great community here, wide and varied. WIth a year+ in the trenches and your current equipment choices you're going the right direction.
Why not drop a 20 high or even 29g under the 55 to increase water volume (and overflow safety if you need it) and drop that Magnus in there to get to work?

I recently picked up a couple of 40s and did a ton of research and remember coming across a few posts (R2R?) that suggested the best placement for a high flow and low flow Vortech combo is to have the higher flow (40) on the side glass, half-way down, center glass, on mode of choice (reef crest preferred). The low flow (10) should be placed on the back wall, at the same level as the bigger pump, at the halfway point of the tank lengthwise (or closer to the main pump if this is not possible). Point being that the low flow pump will break up the high flow to create a random pattern.
 
Last edited:
Welcome to NJRC! I program my vortechs through apex. I can make a recommendation on placement though, I would place them on the left and right sides of the tank facing each other about 2/3 from the top.
Good luck!

Dave
Welcome aboard!
Dave and I are the good looks and intelligence of the crew, you can tell because we respond first, as all good looking intelligent people do.
Sponge gave a thumbs up, but he's sorta on the outskirts trying to get in.

Seriously, we have a great community here, wide and varied. WIth a year+ in the trenches and your current equipment choices you're going the right direction.
Why not drop a 20 high or even 29g under the 55 to increase water volume (and overflow safety if you need it) and drop that Magnus in there to get to work?

I recently picked up a couple of 40s and did a ton of research and remember coming across a few posts (R2R?) that suggested the best placement for a high flow and low flow Vortech combo is to have the higher flow (40) on the side glass, half-way down, center glass, on mode of choice (reef crest preferred). The low flow (10) should be placed on the back wall, at the same level as the bigger pump, at the halfway point of the tank lengthwise (or closer to the main pump if this is not possible). Point being that the low flow pump will break up the high flow to create a random pattern.

Honored to be answered by the cream of the crop first!!!

Thanks to both for the advice. Unfortunately, the tank is in the family room and the fiance didn't want ancillary equipment (sump) in plain view. The only thing that seems to fit under the tank and in the stand is a 10g. I'm making the baffles myself so I'm waiting on the remainder of the acrylic to make its way to me. Because although I'm an engineer apparently addition is hard lol and I didn't order order enough.

I do have them set to reefcrest running at 15% (MP40 being the master) and running them antisync. All good advice. I have to find low flow areas with the new (to me) MP40 running to place my hammer. I had it alittle higher to get more light out of the AI Prime I was running before upgrading to the XR15. I do like that R2R suggestion. I clearly have some thinking to do.

Thanks guys!!
 

DangerDave

NJRC Member
Hammers don’t always need low flow. I like my euphyllia moving, as long as it’s not a steady directional flow.
 
Hammers don’t always need low flow. I like my euphyllia moving, as long as it’s not a steady directional flow.
I can agree with that. I've watched some videos of them flowing nicely in current and felt the "low to moderate flow" requirement may have been foobar. It's certainly not steady directional so it may be ok. It's kindof pissed off right now though so I'll see what happens in the next coming days. I accidentally bumped it while cleaning.

What are suggestions as far as lighting intensity. I have the SPS AB+ schedule running in order to get these guys used to brighter light. I'm coming from AI 16HD's. I currently set the XR15s to 40% intensity. I'm back and forth on it.
 

motortrendz

NJRC Member
So you can get a reeflink which will.allow you to program and modify all of your ecotech devices on one place. I use it to control my mp40 to do different programs...reef crest, lagoon, tidal swell and different intensities during the day and a light away at night. My lights are the xr30 non pro and unless your running alot of sps the ab+ may be too much intensity for too long of a period during the day.. there is a reef radiance program that has a nice smooth ramp up and ramp down with less of an intense max photo period. I am running this program right now bc the ab+ was great on my acros but was too much for everything else in the tank. There is also a LPS and softies program which runs about a 14k spectrum with a similar ab+ ramp and max period but not as intense with the whites. All some things to try out. Now I know ecotech is suposed to me coming out with the moebius app soon, which is going to eliminate the need for a reeflink and will work over Buletooth connection to your devices. So maybe wait and not waste the money on the reeflink.

I agree with mark about maybe getting a larger tank.for the sump, the cost is negligible expecially during the petco 1$/gallon sale. And more water volume and a longer footprint in the sump will allow you for more filtration options and ease of layout. If you could fit a 20 long or a 29g I would go with that instead of a 10g.

And welcome btw. I may not be the resident good looking guy. But I've been lurking around here for a few days. Lol
 
Thank you, way ahead of you on the reef link (forgot to mention it). I've been trying to get the automation worked in because it's a greater chance for success. I may have to look into sneaking something bigger down there. Maybe just try an eshopps sump or look into triggers.

Thanks for the suggestion on the light. I'll switch it around. I love my hammer and my Scoly. Would hate to burn them up.
 

motortrendz

NJRC Member
Dont wast your money on buying a premade sump. Find the biggest tank you can get in there. And make it it's very easy to do, just like the link you shared and yoy.can customize it to fit your needs. As for automation that's all danger Dave's territory. I dont run a Neptune. I have a few basic wifi controllers for heaters and a chiller. my calcium reactor has it's own. All the dosers I do off of the apps on my phone.
 
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