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How to store clean water with Cati-Ani unit...?

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
The solonoid should hold the supply water... no? I would expect it to.
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Phyl said:
The solonoid should hold the supply water... no? I would expect it to.
I would think so too.

David, why are you reluctant to add another electrical device? I think you said you were trying to reduce the risk of failure. IMO, going about it this way may work but seems equally (if not more) risky. With only one outlet and <$100 this is a non-issue. You wouldn't need interim or secondary water tanks or anything, all of which bring their own risks of failure.

stcreef, is it possible for you to put together some sort of drawing about your idea? I'm having trouble visualizing it.
 

malulu

NJRC Member
stcreef, and Bruce,

so, is my last drawing work? or can you help to make a improved drawing for your ideas..., i am a bit lost with the wordings... need a visual image to see...

if you have question how to upload the image, then please send your drawing to my email address (will PM to you), i will post them out.
;)

Phyl,
am still trying to not introduce the solonoid if i could. (electrical & water mix, not good)

John,
yes, this probably a bit more risk - compared to the solonoid... (still thinking...)

;)

thx for all the great advises, pleas keep them coming...
 
Here is a quick drawing:

You want to use a float valve with threads going in as well as out. Main goes to in of float, out threads of float get plumbed to filter. So the water going through the float doesn't actually get dumped into tank, instead it regulates water going into filter.

McMaster Carr has floats with threaded ins and outs.

index.php



imbeded picture
 

RichT

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
There you go Dave!!! Simple. No back pressure on the filters and it shuts off.
 

RichT

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I believe this is what stcreef was refering to: McMaster Carr page 452

5741k26c1l.gif
 

malulu

NJRC Member
here is the drawing from Bruce...
332_18_03_08_6_22_04.JPG


Rich and stcreef,
i got it now... this is cool!! yeah!!

i guess this is pretty much final??
;D

thx a millions.
 

RichT

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
all props go to stcreef

sometimes the simplest answers aren't always the most apparent
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Nice! Well that just makes this whole thing a lot easier. The only question I would have about that float valve is whether or not there are any metal parts that would be coming in contact with the water. If not, it looks like the perfect solution. OK Dave, be the Guinea Pig ;D and let us know how it works!
 

RichT

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I believe the metal parts are all stainless. Not sure if that would be a problem in DI water.
 

malulu

NJRC Member
do you know what is the different for these TWO?

i need it to mount on the 55g barrel.

- 3/8" Kerick Heavy Duty PVC Float Valve, .187 Low Flow Orifice, Stainless Steel Hardware, Bulkhead Tank Connection.
- 3/8" Kerick Heavy Duty PVC Float Valve, .187 Low Flow Orifice, Stainless Steel Hardware, Threaded Tank Connection.

thx
 
I would think you want the bulkhead version, mount it thru the side of the tank.

You will probably need to find a plastic float rod or make one, stainless is no good in DI water, DI will pull ions out of any metal. Even titanium will corrode in DI.
 

RichT

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
There appears to be other stainless parts in the valve as well. Do you know of any sources of all plastic valves?

pt3838187_003.jpg
 
It looks like a cotter pin and a wingnut and bolt. They can be changed out. Pin can probably be left in place. You may be able to use a plastic float arm for a toilet valve.
 

malulu

NJRC Member
stcreef,

understood, i will see what i can do... (with the solenoid or overflow to drain...)

just want to be sure, so the whole thing is not stainless parts?
pt3838187_003.jpg


thanks for all the great advise.
;-)
 
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