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How to store clean water with Cati-Ani unit...?

malulu

NJRC Member
John,

you are absolutely right!! something wrong over there...

yes, i intended for the TDS meter after the Ani and before the top off drum...

i was thinking to just Tee-off a branch, so the flow would not be restricted by the TDS's 1/4 size...
now, it seems the TDS will not get the correct reading...!!

got to think more... need to use more Tee & shut-offs!!!!!

may be you have a suggestion?
thx
 

malulu

NJRC Member
This thing is real crazy!!!

just changing a RO/DI to Cati-Ani... why it have to be so difficult??

see the below comparision:

from this:
malulu said:
332_18_03_08_9_44_04.jpg

to this:
332_22_03_08_5_27_57.jpg


and still not over yet!!
:(
 
David,

To make it simpler, you don't need the prefilters. They will not increase the lifespan of the resins since they are not taking out the sodium from your water softener. You are usually better off taking your water before the softener, but you can check this by testing your TDS readings before and after the softener. Obviously, you can use prefilters, but they are not required like RO.

You don't need an inline TDS either if it is too difficult to plan. I just use a stick TDS meter. I think you are making this more difficult than it needs to be. I understand how the Kati Ani not being under pressure affected your autofilling set-up. Beyond that, you don't need to worry about prefilters, pressure, water temperature, plumbing/recycling waste water, etc. like you do with RO.

Bruce
 

malulu

NJRC Member
Bruce,

- I will try to test with TDS for the water before and after the softener. (then may be no need for the pre-filter).
- I already have TWO in-line TDS with 1/4 - trying to re-use them...
- I might end up with getting a new TDS with 3/8. (unless i can find a way to simplify it.)

thx
 

malulu

NJRC Member
- Thanks for John catching the TDS meter setup issue... (Resolved)
- Thanks for Bruce on the idea of testing TDS before/after the softener - to determine the requirement of pre-filter or not. (Pending...)

Here is the latest chart:

332_23_03_08_1_06_33.jpg


thx
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Dave, I still don't think that's going to work. Following the path of least resistence", I think your TDS meter will only be reading the water coming out of your prefitler. The flow going into the Tee after the prefilter is going to be higher than the flow going into the Tee after the Ani. As a result, you're either going to have static flow at the TDS or mostly prefilter water at the TDS.

Since you bought the 3/8 TDS meter, and flow restriction is no longer and issue, I would definitely recommend getting rid of the loop enitrely. It doesn't seem to serve you any purpose and will cause false readings along with the potential of prefilter water bypassing the Kati-Ani filter and going right into the collection tank.
 

malulu

NJRC Member
John,

this is a DUAL TDS meter, it is not a by-pass from one to another...

it is like this:
dm2


just two testing points...

make sense??

**edit**

to clarify: inside the Dual TDS Meter, the yellow path never existed.

332_23_03_08_1_19_51.jpg
 
David,

If you want to simplify, you only really need a TDS meter coming out of the Kati Ani. Especially if you don't use any prefilters since you don't really care what the tap water is at any given moment.

Personally, I like simple. I have almost as many gallons as you (250 gallons total) and here's my set up:
Tap on-off valve > valve alway set at flow rate > into Kati > into Ani > into storage. It takes an hour to refill my Kalkwasser. I have two 55 gallon water storage tanks, so I let one run down and then refill. It takes about 3 hours to fill one water storage container. I simply use a timer as a reminder. And I use a stick TDS to check the Kati Ani output occasionally.

If you only have one storage container, you could top it off each time you are "playing" with your system. Maybe you would want to try this approach first and if you don't like it then go the complex route.

Bruce
 

malulu

NJRC Member
Bruce,

thanks for the advise.

this setup looks complicated, but it is not... it is just the different size of connectors make them complicated.

once the setup is done, i don't need to worry anything... like current setup i have, i draw as much water as i needed, and then i just leave them alone (or go out to have some fun), it will be auto fill up, and no need any timer to reminder me to shut off...etc.

if you can find these parts all with 1/2 OD (3/8 ID) fitting and sell them along with the system as add-on, then it would be perfect:
- Tap on-off valve
- TDS meter
- Tee
- shut-off valve
- float-valve

I might add a solenoid switch later on for double safety purpose... (why later? cause it cost about $100 LARGE! with the float switch...)
:-\

thx
 

malulu

NJRC Member
UPDATE:
after 2 nights of DYI, finally got this to setup, BUT still need more tweaking!

LESSON LEARNT:
do not use hack! do the right way from the beginning!

PROBLEMS:
1.
- this TDS meter did not work
dm2

- it could be an exellent TDS meter, but the probe (1/4") is simply too big to fit in the (3/8") adaptor
- AirWaterIce does an excellent service, they are offering refund or exchange of whatever, also suggested to get this one instead, well, will wait for it to arrived and see.
senno_dula_tds


2.
- This float valve is not designed to do what i want it to do...
- when the lever&ball was up all the way, it is working fine, BUT the water drip/leaks from the fitting while it is in normal operation position (when the lever&ball was down)
- i messured about 5% of the orgininal water are dripped inside the container (% compared to the final purified water made).
332_02_04_08_9_28_57.jpg


STATUS:
- going to order the Solenoid Valve, with TWO float switches, and get rid of the float valve!
- and Yes, John, i will try to get the pre/post water-softener's water-hardness reading when i get a chance. right now, the TDS of post-water-softener is 645, Cati-Ani out is 7. the Cati-Ani unit can supply around 12g/per-hour, i now have it tune as ~8gph (just in case sometime the water presure may went up...)

I will post a new thread in the DYI section - WHEN this is all done!

thx
 

malulu

NJRC Member
(RE-POSTED from Google Cache as of October 11, 2010, 10:37:52 PM)

Finally get a chance to finish up this thread...

When I did the setup, it end up with nothing much to show... Hence I did not post a new thread, instead just a latest update of few images here.

to RECAP:
- Due to the Kati-Ani can not take a pressure directly from the input, therefore I can't just replace my old RO/DI (pic-1) with Cati-Ani (Pic-2), hence end up with this finally setup (Pic-3).

(
332_18_03_08_9_44_04.jpg
)

Final Setup:
(
kati-ani-hookup-3.jpg
)

I used single switch combined with a Solenoid valve to control the water flow
the Solenoid is normally in an OFF position, when I turn on the Timer-switch, the Solenoid will be open, and water will be flowing in...
But for double safety purpose, I use TWO single switch controllers, if any one of them tripped (by the water float higher than them), they will shut off the Solenoid
I use a timer switch, so i can control how long it should be on. Once the timer ran out, or the water flow higher than the single switch controllers, the water flow will be stopped

Solenoid
(
A2.jpg
)

TWO Signle Switch Controllers
(
A1.jpg
)

Autotop off connected with a MaxiJet
(
A3.jpg
)

Switch Timer
(
switch-timer.jpg
)
 
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