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i need help asap!!!

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dave83

Hi im prety new at this hobby and ive come across serius problem in my tank!
my zoanthids are dying and i can't find out what is killing them.i found red slime alge on one of them but the frag that is dying doesn't have anything on it!.does any body has an idea of what can it be and what can i do to try to save it?
 
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ds4x4

What are the Zoas doing? are they dissolving like? are they just receding? or does it look like there's pieces of them missing?
 
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Whitebird1

Recommended actions- Turkey blaster, hit them good then see if they open.
Flat Worm Exit or ReVive as a dip, 8 drops in a bowl, wait 5 min, swoosh the frag around, dip in clean water,
examine the dip water for parasites.

Furan-2 Treatments, my experience.
Highly effective against zoa disorders.
Minimum negative effects on the zoas, many opened up shortly after treatments.
No effects or concerns to the main tank after returning the treated zoas, zoes were dipped in clean water first.

http://www.zoaid.com/articles004.php
What is Furan-2?

Thanh states: I used to be a Discus hobbyist and fungus is a common illness for these fishes. Furan-2 is often used to cure fungus and it has worked for me for many times.

Furan-2 tablets are effective against a wide variety of gram positive and gram negative bacterial diseases for freshwater and saltwater fish. This medication will cause a harmless green color in the aquarium, which can be removed with activated carbon. This medication can be used in conjunction with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals anti-parasitic medications. This medication will not harm the biological filter in fresh or saltwater aquariums.

For treatment of: Dropsy, furunculosis, gill disease, fin and tail rot and black molly disease.

Instructions (as per the manufacture):

1. Use one capsule for every 10 gallons of aquarium water
2. Wait 24 hours and repeat dose
3. Wait another 24 hours and make a 25% water change
4. Repeat this treatment for a second time for a total of 4 doses of Furan-2
5. Make a final 25% water change and add fresh activated carbon
6. Repeat if necessary

Ingredients:
Each capsule of Furan-2 contains:

* 60mg Nitrofurazone
* 25mg Furazolidone
* 2mg Methylene Blue Trihydrate

Additional requirements for treatment:

* 1 cup of RO new saltwater (Update 2009.03.30: For the sake of clarity, we have edited this article to reflect that a cup of new saltwater, non-tank water but new saltwater of appropriate salinity, is needed. This reference change has been made several times in this article, but is only commented on here.)
* 1 capsule of Furan
* 1 extra cup of Aquarium Water (this is used to wash the Zoanthids after the treatment and before they are put back into your Aquarium; I do this because I don't want to risk Furan killing any of my fish or other corals).*

*Note: Through my experiment I found out that even if you don't wash your Zoanthid before putting it back into the main tank, it will not hurt any live stock or corals, (I have tested this on my own). But I'm washing it anyway just to be on the safe side. (ZoaID.com notes: t is always a good idea to target treat infected animals vs. a global tank treatment when possible!)

PH, Temp, and Salinity Level:
Make sure you match the temp, pH, and salinity level of your RO new saltwater to your current tank before the treatment.

Procedure:

* place 1 capsule into the RO new saltwater cup and mix it good until the RO new saltwater water turns green. Put the zoa in the Furan mix and leave it for xxx minutes. I recommend at least 15 min but not more than 30 min.
* After the treatment, wash the zoas in your tank water on the other cup you had put aside. Then put the zoas back in the tank where there is a stronger flow.

*Note: Your zoa will have a green dye to its body but it is fine. The green dye should fade away in a day or two.

Do 3 treatments in a row then let it rest for 4-7 days; depending on the condition of your Zoanthids. If the ZoaPox is still on the Zoanthids then continue with another three treatments. But make sure you let it rest 4-7 days after every 3 treatments.

Temp:
Keep in mind; during the treatment I slowly increase my temp from 78 to 81-82. Furan works best in higher heat. But I would not go over 82. In freshwater I bump it up to 84-86 for Furan treatment against fungus.

Water Changes:
I also increase my water changes from 5 gal per week to 10 gal every 3 days. (This is in a 75G tank.)

*Note: I did another test on the effectiveness of water change. With water changes my Zoanthids seem to recover quicker. On the other hand, Zoanthids that receive no water changes still recover, but it just takes longer.

Recommended Instructions for long-term treatment of ZoaPox: AND OTHER PROBLEMS GH

1st WEEK

* Day 1: 1st treatment started with 20 min dip
* Day 2: 2nd treatment started with 20 min dip
* Day 3: 3rd treatment started with 20 min dip

Let the colony rest for 1 week
 
M

mgonz

Do you by chance have any angels in your tank. Or maybe a different fish that might be picken at them. Like previously stated it's hard to say without any tank info.
 
9supratt4

9supratt4

Thats a great treatment that Whitebird told you about....but my opinion is not to treat them until you know whats going on. Give us more details and we'll be able to help better.
 
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Whitebird1

not to treat them until you know whats going on
Click to expand...
Correct, But, the treatment above is harmless and the Red Flag was the
i found red slime alge on one of them
Click to expand...
and that it is a new tank, this will possibly help to save them till things get sorted out.
To minalmize that long tech thing-
Go to the local LFS buy Furan-2 Common $8 bucks
Dump some in a container, half a pack per 2-3 cups, cannot over do it, its harmless!
Hit the Zoos with a turkey blaster, blow off the red slime, put back in tank, Done.
Did you dip?
Flat Worm Exit or ReVive, Lugals is useless, place in the dip, again both are harmless, go heavy, FWE 4-8 drops per cup, RV 1/2 cap per 2 cups water dip 5 min, turkey blast, put back in tank, now check the dip water for bugs, nudis, spiders, bad, copapods ok, done.
Now that you have started the treatments to save the zoos, find out what messed up in the first place.
 
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dave83

my tank is a biocube 29.i have 2 false percula, a six line wrasse,a golden head gobby,a lawn motor blenny and about 12 diferent frags of corals.5 of them are zoas and the one dying was the bigest.
the zoas started closing and being covered by a clear gel(thats how i describe it),then they have been desolving. the rest of the polips(heads) have been losing their color.they were green and slowly they are becoming brown.
 
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