mickeysreef <*))))<
NJRC Member
Doing some research for a project I'm taking on. Feel free to share what worked out what didn't work for you.
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Ich Poll
- Thread starter mickeysreef <*))))<
- Start date
deepblue68
POTM Winner
I have used copper along with hyposalinty in treatment tank and let display go fallow. I also had a display where I just used hyposalinty and most fish recovered . i did lose a few fish.
mickeysreef <*))))<
NJRC Member
its possible for ich to "die" out after a year if no fish are noticeably infected and no new strains are added, however there are reports of ich surviving 10+ years when outbreaks continue to occur.
Last edited:
Salted
NJRC Member
I answered 3&4. Not sure my water is "pristine" but definitely yes to the other part. As far as qt, again yes but I wouldn't say comprehensive. Most of my fish are from a fellow forum members' tank breakdown and were my only fish at the time so they went right in. My kole tang, from blue zoo aquatics, got qt'd. Two weeks of cupramine following label instructions and two rounds of prazi pro. He is doing very well. Zippy little guy gives me a lot of smiles. I have not qt'd inverts.
EZreefin
NJRC Member
I usually check all water parameters, then do multi pronged attack method :
1:Turn water temp up to 80 degrees to speed. up life cycle of ich.
2: Use Seachem focus and Metroplex in frozen food. For picky eaters. (Don't feed corals or anemone! )
3: medicated pellets. New life spectrum. Ick shield ( Don't feed corals or anemone)
4: Kordon. Ich attack. ( I use it longer then it says to. )
5: UV sterlizer
6: large water change after treatment cycle has been completed then continue with multi pronged attack for additional week Or two followed by another large water change. Then just medicated pellets/ frozen food for another week to keep the medication in the fish's blood stream just incase there are some lurking around looking to attach onto them.
Given time, heavy feedings,medication and water changes you can win that war. You just have to be prepared and start treatment right away at first sign. If fish stop eating they usually don't last long. If they are in distress and rapidly breathing they May have a heavy gill infestation. I have heard mixed reviews about this , but you can also try a fresh water dip to try and make them ( the ich parasite) die and release from the gills.
Look up and research before fresh water dip. Like how to match temp. And PH. some people say it works and others say the mucus from the fish's gills coat the ich and protect it fron the drop in salinity. Tangs tend to play dead! Lol frightening the hell out of you! Lol .
I know everyone has there own ways to deal with ich, but over time and experience dealing with it I have found this to be one of the best ways to deal with it. The earlier you spot it and do something about it the better off you and your fish will be. Oh one more thing. Make sure its ich and not just sand stuck to the side of the fish....lol made that mistake before. Lol look for rapid breathing, scratching against rocks darting around the tank, thicker slime coating on fish etc. Hope this helps some people.
1:Turn water temp up to 80 degrees to speed. up life cycle of ich.
2: Use Seachem focus and Metroplex in frozen food. For picky eaters. (Don't feed corals or anemone! )
3: medicated pellets. New life spectrum. Ick shield ( Don't feed corals or anemone)
4: Kordon. Ich attack. ( I use it longer then it says to. )
5: UV sterlizer
6: large water change after treatment cycle has been completed then continue with multi pronged attack for additional week Or two followed by another large water change. Then just medicated pellets/ frozen food for another week to keep the medication in the fish's blood stream just incase there are some lurking around looking to attach onto them.
Given time, heavy feedings,medication and water changes you can win that war. You just have to be prepared and start treatment right away at first sign. If fish stop eating they usually don't last long. If they are in distress and rapidly breathing they May have a heavy gill infestation. I have heard mixed reviews about this , but you can also try a fresh water dip to try and make them ( the ich parasite) die and release from the gills.
Look up and research before fresh water dip. Like how to match temp. And PH. some people say it works and others say the mucus from the fish's gills coat the ich and protect it fron the drop in salinity. Tangs tend to play dead! Lol frightening the hell out of you! Lol .
I know everyone has there own ways to deal with ich, but over time and experience dealing with it I have found this to be one of the best ways to deal with it. The earlier you spot it and do something about it the better off you and your fish will be. Oh one more thing. Make sure its ich and not just sand stuck to the side of the fish....lol made that mistake before. Lol look for rapid breathing, scratching against rocks darting around the tank, thicker slime coating on fish etc. Hope this helps some people.
I have kept fish, fresh and salt. For several decades And have seen Ich show it’s face a few times. (Primarily when I was a young man and learning the aquatic hobby) I’m not sure you can definitively prevent it. however, I am of the belief that it dosent mater if it’s in your water. Non Stressed healthy fish that are well fed with good water parameters simply never show signs. And if you get a new fish and it gets bullied it may show some spots. But if the stressful condition subsides. And good water parameters are maintained. It goes away quickly. A long time ago we treated with elevated temperatures and pennies. But I just don’t feel that’s necessary anymore. Great water conditions and a low stress environment seems to work great.
Agree. Years ago read an article that ICH is forever present in SW / FW. Water quality, stressors, and good nutrition are a huge factor.
Too many tangs that you look at them wrong and they turn white.
I see a speck anywhere. I turn on a 160w of uv, temps go to 81 and two weeks later. Nothing happened.
.
However I must caveat. Since the naso which I got from a trusted source. Nothing and I mean nothing goes in my tank anymore.
If Achilles goes. So does tank.
I’ve had Achilles, purple , hippo and yellow for 5 years now
I see a speck anywhere. I turn on a 160w of uv, temps go to 81 and two weeks later. Nothing happened.
.However I must caveat. Since the naso which I got from a trusted source. Nothing and I mean nothing goes in my tank anymore.
If Achilles goes. So does tank.
I’ve had Achilles, purple , hippo and yellow for 5 years now
Been doing this for something like 8-10 years now.
Always long acclimates.
Never overstock the tank.
Always separate aggressors.
Feed various foods, mostly home made.
Fish are well fed, non-stressed, and environmentally happy.
Have never seen a spot of ich or any other disease.
I expect, after typing this, all my fish will be dead from ich within 24 hours.
Always long acclimates.
Never overstock the tank.
Always separate aggressors.
Feed various foods, mostly home made.
Fish are well fed, non-stressed, and environmentally happy.
Have never seen a spot of ich or any other disease.
I expect, after typing this, all my fish will be dead from ich within 24 hours.
They look awesome young. But get ugly or plain as adult.
I have gone through hundreds of posts about ich eradication vs ich management. It's an interesting topic and it's interesting to see how the hobby has evolved from its way of thinking about ich from just a couple years ago, to now. Everyone seems to have their own different way of dealing with it. I personally prefer the eradication route. But I'm my very short time I'm the sw hobby, I already did the eradication method along with qt. And i must say, I've lost way more fish QT'ing than when I used to just not think so deeply about everything I did (or added) to the tank