?Ich

[bluehippo]

So after raising the temp, dropping the salinity, and treating my tank with STOP PARASITES for a week ... my ICH problem seems to be under control ... my blur hippo, Flame ANgel, yellow tangs, and goby have seemed to have kicked the Ich!

Now, my Harlequin Tusk is covered with looks like white specks of what looks like substrate and has an increased slime coat ... my clown trigger didn't come out tonight and is hiding and looks like here is cover with an increased slime coat as well from what I can see.

Any ideas????

Water parameters are good .... could they have a secondary bacterial infection???

 

[reeferwanabe]

I'm no expert but if they are eating add vitamins and get them fat. I never had much luck with copper treatment. The stress of netting them out into treatment tank can be worse. (my experience) others have had success. ma be a couple cleaner shrimp but your fish may eat them. black worms. selcon. multivitamins. vitamin c. garlic. I occasionally crush a clove of fresh garlic and feed it directly to fish. water changes. run temporary ultraviolet.

 

[Nickjr000]

I'm no expert but if they are eating add vitamins and get them fat. I never had much luck with copper treatment. The stress of netting them out into treatment tank can be worse. (my experience) others have had success. ma be a couple cleaner shrimp but your fish may eat them. black worms. selcon. multivitamins. vitamin c. garlic. I occasionally crush a clove of fresh garlic and feed it directly to fish. water changes. run temporary ultraviolet.

+1

 

[The_Codfather]

So after raising the temp, dropping the salinity, and treating my tank with STOP PARASITES for a week ... my ICH problem seems to be under control ... my blur hippo, Flame ANgel, yellow tangs, and goby have seemed to have kicked the Ich!

Now, my Harlequin Tusk is covered with looks like white specks of what looks like substrate and has an increased slime coat ... my clown trigger didn't come out tonight and is hiding and looks like here is cover with an increased slime coat as well from what I can see.

Any ideas????

Water parameters are good .... could they have a secondary bacterial infection???

Marine Ichhttp://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
Marine velvethttp://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-07/sp/feature/index.php

 

[Hawkeye]

so....how big is this tank to have:

blue hippo
flame angel
yellow tangs (plural - how many?)
harlequin tusk
clown trigger
goby
....?

Understanding the tank size and number of fish can help dictate whether a disease like ich can be controlled or not. If there is constant intimidation or stressful conditions - no matter how much medicine you use, you'll be fighting a losing battle.

 

[qwik]

20 gal. (lol)
Would a cleaner shrimp or gobbie help,just tossing the idea out there never had one in my system but never had to deal with parasites . Maybe someone who has can confirm the benifit of adding one or both . Good luck .

 

[Rbu1]

You are on the right track if you want to erradicate ich from your system. You want as big of a tank as you can get for those fish along with good filtration. The only way to remove ich is to leave your DT tank fallow for 8 but I prefer 12 weeks while treating the fish in copper. I prefer copper over hypo because the water parameters are easier to maintain. I have a 125 I use as a treatment tank along with an emperor 400 hang on and a W/D filter loaded with bio balls....

I also believe those other snake oils like....Vitamins, garlic, reef safe treatments......DONT work. They are good to soak your food in to give the fish some nutrients but for the parasite piece of it don't bother.

DT fallow 12 weeks
QT copper 4 weeks....
= NO ICH.....provided you keep the copper at the proper level. Cupramine .5 is the target

 

[Phyl]

If you go through the process of irradicating ich from your system, you'll need to make sure to TREAT (not just QT) each and every fish that you later want to add to your tank in order to maintain an ich free system. While most fish are asymptomatic, I'd venture to guess 90% of them are carriers. Even if only 10% were carriers there's no guaranteeing that you're not introducing the 10 (or 1) percent that does.

Vitamins and garlic are the key to a healthy immune system. Without those the fish doesn't have a fighting chance. Boost their immune system and you are far more likely to have them fight off diseases and parasites. So "don't work" is truly debatable.

 

[Rbu1]

If you go through the process of irradicating ich from your system, you'll need to make sure to TREAT (not just QT) each and every fish that you later want to add to your tank in order to maintain an ich free system. While most fish are asymptomatic, I'd venture to guess 90% of them are carriers. Even if only 10% were carriers there's no guaranteeing that you're not introducing the 10 (or 1) percent that does.

Vitamins and garlic are the key to a healthy immune system. Without those the fish doesn't have a fighting chance. Boost their immune system and you are far more likely to have them fight off diseases and parasites. So "don't work" is truly debatable.

Not only will you have to treat every fish you will also have to be careful with the corals and inverts. They can not host ich but the water in snails shells along with the pourous area in rock can have ich in it.

 

[Nickjr000]

Vitamins and garlic are the key to a healthy immune system. Without those the fish doesn't have a fighting chance. Boost their immune system and you are far more likely to have them fight off diseases and parasites. So "don't work" is truly debatable.

I'm a heavy believer in this. Knock on wood I been using garlic in my last 2 tanks and have never had ich in either and my loss of fish is very low, much lower than before. I'll soak some food in it 2-3 times a week, it's simple enough to do, and cheap cause one bottle last a long time. I think it helps keep the fish healthier . Once in a while I'll notice the occasional spot on a fish ( Mainly just the powder blue )And it rids itself and never turns in to more than just a spot.