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Lexan Sump Mod

Crabby

Crabby

NJRC Member
Hi all, I have a question. Can super glue be used to bond Lexan to Acrylic? I plan on reworking this old sump to increase refuge in middle, and lessen the left side which will only be drain + skimmer area.

I've used super glue to bond Lexan together and it's a strong bond. I have sheets of Lexan so it'll be Lexan to Acrylic which I believe will work. I'm not sure about Weld On working with the Lexan since it's polycarbonate. Any input, experience will be greatly appreciated.
TIA!
 

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Bot587

NJRC Member
it would work if you did lexan to lexan (polycarbonate to polycarbonate) or acrylic to acrylic.

With that said, you would be fine using cyanoacrylate gel to bond lexan baffles to acrylic plastic (this only bonds the two with an adhesive).
 
Crabby

Crabby

NJRC Member
Bot587 said:
If it’s for internal baffling, cyanoacrylate (superglue) will be fine
Click to expand...
I guess in a month I'll do pump maintenence and drain sump. The great part about cyanoacrylate is it hardens with no cure time for reef safe. I still have 4 gel in freezer so I'm thinking clean sanded edge will bond to create the baffles.
 
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Bot587

NJRC Member
Crabby said:
I guess in a month I'll do pump maintenence and drain sump. The great part about cyanoacrylate is it hardens with no cure time for reef safe. I still have 4 gel in freezer so I'm thinking clean sanded edge will bond to create the baffles.
Click to expand...
It will bond and harden and be fine as long as you are not using it for anything more than baffles.
 
Crabby

Crabby

NJRC Member
Bot587 said:
it would work if you did lexan to lexan (polycarbonate to polycarbonate) or acrylic to acrylic.

With that said, you would be fine using cyanoacrylate gel to bond lexan baffles to acrylic plastic (this only bo
Click to expand...

I have a 1/4"x10"x48" piece of lexan if you need. I got 15 4x4' sheets from Bum Rogers down by IBSP after covid ended.
 
D

Deleted member 27248

Guest
Crabby said:
Thank you! Still 24 hour wait afterward? I'm trying to avoid not having a sump down
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This stuff instantly creates a chemical bond, it’s not glue.all the weld on stuff is amazing.
 
D

Deleted member 27248

Guest
Crabby said:
I've seen it used. Kinda like pvc Cement. Isn't there a wait time before it's safe?
Click to expand...
Weld on 4. Is water thin solvent that chemically welds the pieces together. Watch it on YouTube
 
redfishbluefish

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Here's the poop on bonding polycarbonate to acrylic...you have a couple choices, and use the one you're comfortable with, because they all work. Not in any order:

1. Methyl methacrylate bonds PC to A just fine. Someone mentioned it above....Weldon 4 I think. You can think of this as a "super glue"....very similar.
2. Two part polyurethane....Loctite makes a version for plastics....and it's white in color.
3. Epoxy....preferably made for plastics. JB Weld makes a version and it's black.
4. Silicone caulk for plastics....and yes it sticks....but you have to get the right kind. HD carries it, but not in their paint department with their other caulks. You have to go to where they sell acrylic sheets (I think the window department). It's in a red tube.
Silicone Plastic.jpg
Hope this helps....and yes, super glue could work (same "class" as 1 above, methyl methacrylate) , but wouldn't be my first pick.

So use the one you're comfortable with....with "1" your cuts have to be smooth and flat because it needs intimate contact with the surfaces. The others are more forgiving and will fill in imperfections in the cuts. They are all reef safe....let the silicone cure for four or five days. The epoxy and polyurethane could be used within 15-20 minutes.
 
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Crabby

Crabby

NJRC Member
redfishbluefish said:
Here's the poop on bonding polycarbonate to acrylic...you have a couple choices, and use the one you're comfortable with, because they all work. Not in any order:

1. Methyl methacrylate bonds PC to A just fine. Someone mentioned it above....Weldon 4 I think. You can think of this as a "super glue"....very similar.
2. Two part polyurethane....Loctite makes a version for plastics....and it's white in color.
3. Epoxy....preferably made for plastics. JB Weld makes a version and it's black.
4. Silicone caulk for plastics....and yes it sticks....but you have to get the right kind. HD carries it, but not in their paint department with their other caulks. You have to go to where they sell acrylic sheets (I think the window department). It's in a red tube.
View attachment 43971
Hope this helps....and yes, super glue could work (same "class" as 1 above, methyl methacrylate) , but wouldn't be my first pick.

So use the one you're comfortable with....with "1" your cuts have to be smooth and flat because it needs intimate contact with the surfaces. The others are more forgiving and will fill in imperfections in the cuts. They are all reef safe....let the silicone cure for four or five days. The epoxy and polyurethane could be used within 15-20 minutes.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input. I can't afford to not have a sump as it's my only bio/ mechanical filtration area. I'm a wood worker so meticulous is the way I am. I usually run pieces of either in table saw backwards with very little chatter from the teeth. I will sand smooth after the cut.
There won't be anything that's structural that's why I was thinking the easier route with super glue(I have a ton of gel leftover lol). I'll check out each that you posted. Maybe super glue to start the bond, then another method on top like a silicone joint to add a little more water tightness. It's only to give me a dedicated skimmer area, then a possible fuge next to it.

Thanks again, much appreciated!
 
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