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lighting dilemma - need opinions

hello all,

I have reset up my 75 and am operational water, rock, fish, etc.... currently i am running a 4 bulb 48" T5 fixture. I have decided to set up a mixed reef. i 've kept softies and LPS with no issues with the T5's alone. Should i go with a 6 bulb T5 fixture or go to a MH/T5 fixture. I was thinking 2 x250 MH and 4 T5's 716 watts total which is more then double the T5's alone. I'm going to be adding some SPS corals so i'm leaning towards the MH/T5 setup. Any help from people using them would be great.

Thanks
Harry
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I’ll answer your question if you answer mine: What makes a better peanut butter and jelly sandwich, strawberry or grape?

A standard 75g is 20 inches deep. I really think it boils down to a couple factors and your personal preference to these factors. I’m sure some will chime in about their success using either MH or T5’s, but bottom line is that you need to review the things that float your boat on lighting.

A couple things I’d consider in making this choice:

o MH tend to produce more heat.

o T5’s give you greater flexibility to multiple bulb choices to get different looks to your tank.

o Bulb life / bulb costs.

o Some might consider electric consumption.

o Height above the tank / canopy design.

If you do decide to go T5, I would definitely go with a minimum of 6 bulbs. I’d use the 4 bulb fixture as your mid-day lights and add a retro with at least two more bulbs. Now you could use that two+ bulb fixture to come on first and go off last, helping to mimic morning and evening sun.

Now, let the battle begin between the MH and T5 combatants.
 
redfishbluefish said:
I’ll answer your question if you answer mine: What makes a better peanut butter and jelly sandwich, strawberry or grape?

A standard 75g is 20 inches deep. I really think it boils down to a couple factors and your personal preference to these factors. I’m sure some will chime in about their success using either MH or T5’s, but bottom line is that you need to review the things that float your boat on lighting.

A couple things I’d consider in making this choice:

o MH tend to produce more heat.

o T5’s give you greater flexibility to multiple bulb choices to get different looks to your tank.

o Bulb life / bulb costs.

o Some might consider electric consumption.

o Height above the tank / canopy design.

If you do decide to go T5, I would definitely go with a minimum of 6 bulbs. I’d use the 4 bulb fixture as your mid-day lights and add a retro with at least two more bulbs. Now you could use that two+ bulb fixture to come on first and go off last, helping to mimic morning and evening sun.

Now, let the battle begin between the MH and T5 combatants.

I don't think theres anything to add here but I do have something to say. "GO T5's". I'm currently running the Aquactinics Solar Flare on my 90 and couldn't be happier. This fixture has 6 bulbs and my corals are growing nicely at the bottom with no sand. I am also going to try T5'S on my 210.
 
I love T5's i just wasn't sure if 6 would be enough output for SPS corals. I know with the 4 now i can grow any type of softie with no issues...Also i was considering the MH/T5 combo for when i upgrade to a larger tank most likely a 120 i'd like to stay in the 4 foot range....
 
i am running a power module t5 with 8 bulbs on a mix soft and sps on a 90 tank could not be happier placement is the key with sps's
 

mikem

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
redfishbluefish said:
o MH tend to produce more heat.

o Some might consider electric consumption.

Now, let the battle begin between the MH and T5 combatants.

Me First, me first. ;D

I just want eliminate the old wifes tale that MH's produce more heat then T-5's. That is completely not true. A Watt is a Watt which produces a certain amount of heat. If its coming from a light or a pump, the wattage will determine the heat. It may feel to you like a MH is hotter because the heat is concentrated into a 6-8 inch area whereas a T-5 bulb might be 48inches long. So the heat (same amount, watt per watt) will stretch out further on a T-5.

A Watt is a Watt when it comes to electric used.
 
mikem said:
redfishbluefish said:
o MH tend to produce more heat.

o Some might consider electric consumption.

Now, let the battle begin between the MH and T5 combatants.
A Watt is a Watt when it comes to electric used.

This is true. However any lighting draws more watts than it actually produces, i.e. a 400w MH bulb on a majnetic ballast draws aproximately 458w to produce 400w of light. A 400w bulb on an electronic ballast draws aproximately 425w to produce the same 400w of light while T5 bulbs draw approximately 225w to produce 200w of light. The extra wattage is converted into ambient heat usually disappated from the ballast rather than the bulb.
 
No problem, I was actually very surprised to find out that MH bulbs w/electronic ballasts are far more efficient than any flourescent bulb (T12, T8 or T5) in converting watts to lumens. Now how that converts into reef tanks I have no idea.

I know from experience that soft coral & LPS grow great under VHO and I would assume they would do as well under T5. Jersey Wendy's tank is proof enough that you can grow SPS under T5. So I would suggest to Harry that he add another 2 or 4 bulb T5 fixture to his existing and save some money for corals.
Or if you really want to go MH/T5 then try and mount the ballasts remotely. If possible in another room or down in the basement if you have one.
 
Jcurry@wesketch said:
No problem, I was actually very surprised to find out that MH bulbs w/electronic ballasts are far more efficient than any flourescent bulb (T12, T8 or T5) in converting watts to lumens. Now how that converts into reef tanks I have no idea.

I know from experience that soft coral & LPS grow great under VHO and I would assume they would do as well under T5. Jersey Wendy's tank is proof enough that you can grow SPS under T5. So I would suggest to Harry that he add another 2 or 4 bulb T5 fixture to his existing and save some money for corals.
Or if you really want to go MH/T5 then try and mount the ballasts remotely. If possible in another room or down in the basement if you have one.

all information taken into consideration, thanks everyone. I have seen Wendy's tank and i like what she did.. I know SPS can be kept under T5's and i'm leaning that way. I was looking at the new Nova exteme Pro 6 bulb fixture. Most threads i have seen from people owning it are very pleased with it and it's not super expensive. I think using MH with SPS. But i'm also looking for something i can use when i upgrade to a 120 in the future. That's where the MH/T5 setup comes into play...not sure what my decision will be.. Lots of thinking to do

Thanks
Harry
 
i've owned a nova extreme pro fixture for a little under a year, and i'm going to need to open it up and possibly replace some endcaps because it seems as though i've got a bad connection. i have to prop one of the legs up about a half inch to get half the bulbs to fire. i'd spend a couple extra dollars and look into something from sunlight supply, or better.

don't forget the shimmer metal halide produces. i think it's a far better look. i also believe the penetration is much better with metal halide than T-5.

that said, i truly believe we use too much light over our tanks. i think we focus so much on lighting, when we should be focusing on flow and water quality. i have a 30 breeder that i threw two 54 watt t-5's over(one 12k daylight and one actinic) in a hurry to make room for an abundance of corals.
they are 48" long and the 30b is only 36, so i'm not even getting the full effect from them.
i know the 30b is just 12" deep, but i have sps in this tank doing well. full of color and growing. even on the bottom. 3.6 watts per gallon.


i also have a single 250 watt halide, about 16" over a 40 breeder, that sustains everything, including sps and an anemone. the anemone chose a shaded spot also, so i think that says alot about what kind of light is needed.
 
mr_X said:
i've owned a nova extreme pro fixture for a little under a year, and i'm going to need to open it up and possibly replace some endcaps because it seems as though i've got a bad connection. i have to prop one of the legs up about a half inch to get half the bulbs to fire. i'd spend a couple extra dollars and look into something from sunlight supply, or better.

don't forget the shimmer metal halide produces. i think it's a far better look. i also believe the penetration is much better with metal halide than T-5.

that said, i truly believe we use too much light over our tanks. i think we focus so much on lighting, when we should be focusing on flow and water quality. i have a 30 breeder that i threw two 54 watt t-5's over(one 12k daylight and one actinic) in a hurry to make room for an abundance of corals.
they are 48" long and the 30b is only 36, so i'm not even getting the full effect from them.
i know the 30b is just 12" deep, but i have sps in this tank doing well. full of color and growing. even on the bottom. 3.6 watts per gallon.


i also have a single 250 watt halide, about 16" over a 40 breeder, that sustains everything, including sps and an anemone. the anemone chose a shaded spot also, so i think that says alot about what kind of light is needed.

sucks about your issues with the Nova, the only issue i ever had was that i replaced one ballast under warranty other than that no issues at all. I know a few people who have them and love them. It's worked like a champ... I am leaning towards the MH/T5 setup and thinking of the 250 MH even though 150's would be plenty in my 75, because i will be upgrading in the future to a 120 so it saves me from having to buy another light in the future and i too like the shimmer effect also. But i think you're right, a lot of people focus on light too much and it's definitely a matter of opinion on what everyone likes...my motto is if it works for you keep at it.

Harry
 
D

Deleted member 10862

Guest
im currently running 2x150Mh in my 72..and im thinking of goin t5s too..so i think a lot of people are taking this route to save on money and heat..
 
i don't think you are going to save much money, and i don't believe too much heat either.
you have 300 watts of metal halide now. what fixture would you be going to? a 6 x 54 watt fixture? that's more than 300 watts.
as for the heat i believe the heat from halides is concentrated in a small area, where the t-5 lamp has the heat spread out over 46" or so.
i think a well positioned 10 dollar fan would do you more good than a new fixture.
 
-btw, i have both metal halide and t-5s over various tanks, and i'm migrating towards getting rid of the t-5's and going all halides. ;)
 
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