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Low PH?
- Thread starter kevin
- Start date
I battled low ph since the start of my tank a year and 1/2 ago. The only way for me to keep ph up was adding a kalk reactor. I tried 2-part for a bit but ended up over dosing and had a mini crash. Many use 2 part, but just need to be careful. Kalk is pretty much set it forget it in the ato.
The ph will rise with a few factors. It will go up during the day as lights come on. A good skimmer which pulls a lot of air will also raise pH. Running the skimmer on the wet side will raise the pH also.
What kind of skimmer do you have? A a temporary measure you can use baking soda to raise the pH.
The BRS two part is a soda ash mix and it raise pH also
Sunny
What kind of skimmer do you have? A a temporary measure you can use baking soda to raise the pH.
The BRS two part is a soda ash mix and it raise pH also
Sunny
kevin
NJRC Member
The ph will rise with a few factors. It will go up during the day as lights come on. A good skimmer which pulls a lot of air will also raise pH. Running the skimmer on the wet side will raise the pH also.
What kind of skimmer do you have? A a temporary measure you can use baking soda to raise the pH.
The BRS two part is a soda ash mix and it raise pH also
Sunny
I have a bubble magus NAC 3.5. Right now the pH is at 7.81. I will try running it on the wet side! I appreciate all of the help.
Kevin:
You say you moved your tank. Was your PH in acceptable ranges before the move? Is it possible you may have caused a "mini cycle" by stirring up things in, around, or under rockwork or sand? This absolutely can spike the PH downward. Test for ammonia etc.
Before enacting any measured response directly to the PH reading, I always like to "test my tests". I know you said you calibrated your PH probe, but it IS possible that the test is still inaccurate.
Try mixing up a small batch of new saltwater and test that. Also, make sure your salinity is right on your tank, and that whatever measurement tool you are using to test salinity is also accurate. Diluted water can and will show lower PH levels than normal.
If you have access, or can get access, to a CO meter, take readings inside the home. You could have elevated CO in the area you moved the tank to as well.
The most immediate and easiest solution would be a significant water change if you have not done that already.
You can also try aerating the water a bit more. If you have access to outside fresh air, you can run a longer air line from outside to your skimmer, or simply drop a small bubbling airstone in temporarily. Turbulent water doesn't always mean appropriately aerated water.
Just want to make sure you are investigating every possibility before beginning addition of chemicals etc. If the PH was correct before the move, there must be something that has changed either during the move, or with the new location of the tank.
You say you moved your tank. Was your PH in acceptable ranges before the move? Is it possible you may have caused a "mini cycle" by stirring up things in, around, or under rockwork or sand? This absolutely can spike the PH downward. Test for ammonia etc.
Before enacting any measured response directly to the PH reading, I always like to "test my tests". I know you said you calibrated your PH probe, but it IS possible that the test is still inaccurate.
Try mixing up a small batch of new saltwater and test that. Also, make sure your salinity is right on your tank, and that whatever measurement tool you are using to test salinity is also accurate. Diluted water can and will show lower PH levels than normal.
If you have access, or can get access, to a CO meter, take readings inside the home. You could have elevated CO in the area you moved the tank to as well.
The most immediate and easiest solution would be a significant water change if you have not done that already.
You can also try aerating the water a bit more. If you have access to outside fresh air, you can run a longer air line from outside to your skimmer, or simply drop a small bubbling airstone in temporarily. Turbulent water doesn't always mean appropriately aerated water.
Just want to make sure you are investigating every possibility before beginning addition of chemicals etc. If the PH was correct before the move, there must be something that has changed either during the move, or with the new location of the tank.
kevin
NJRC Member
You say you moved your tank. Was your PH in acceptable ranges before the move? Is it possible you may have caused a "mini cycle" by stirring up things in, around, or under rockwork or sand?
It was. My pH before hand was between 8.0-8.3 I replaced the sand with Caribsea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink. I tested for ammonia and it's 0. I haven't tested nitrite or nitrates yet.
My tank is a 50g cube with 18g sump. I had 45g of fresh mixed saltwater heated & stirred with Reef Crystals that I put into the tank. The rest of it was old water.
Try mixing up a small batch of new saltwater and test that. Also, make sure your salinity is right on your tank, and that whatever measurement tool you are using to test salinity is also accurate. Diluted water can and will show lower PH levels than normal.
I will mix up a new batch and test that. I recalibrated my refractometer last week with (milwaukee instruments salinity refractometer)
You can also try aerating the water a bit more. If you have access to outside fresh air, you can run a longer air line from outside to your skimmer, or simply drop a small bubbling airstone in temporarily. Turbulent water doesn't always mean appropriately aerated water.
I just threw in a 12" air stone. Hopefully that helps. I can run a longer line because the door is right here, I'll just have to get some hose.
I also put a bottle of One And Only Nitrifying Bacteria by Dr Tim's Aquatics into the tank
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18986
I appreciate the help
It was. My pH before hand was between 8.0-8.3 I replaced the sand with Caribsea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink. I tested for ammonia and it's 0. I haven't tested nitrite or nitrates yet.
My tank is a 50g cube with 18g sump. I had 45g of fresh mixed saltwater heated & stirred with Reef Crystals that I put into the tank. The rest of it was old water.
Try mixing up a small batch of new saltwater and test that. Also, make sure your salinity is right on your tank, and that whatever measurement tool you are using to test salinity is also accurate. Diluted water can and will show lower PH levels than normal.
I will mix up a new batch and test that. I recalibrated my refractometer last week with (milwaukee instruments salinity refractometer)
You can also try aerating the water a bit more. If you have access to outside fresh air, you can run a longer air line from outside to your skimmer, or simply drop a small bubbling airstone in temporarily. Turbulent water doesn't always mean appropriately aerated water.
I just threw in a 12" air stone. Hopefully that helps. I can run a longer line because the door is right here, I'll just have to get some hose.
I also put a bottle of One And Only Nitrifying Bacteria by Dr Tim's Aquatics into the tank
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18986
I appreciate the help
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With all of those factors adding up, it sounds to me like you are cycling. New sand, new water, and nitrifying bacteria all combined with a move.
Before you add anything, I would give it a bit to settle down. Definitely check your PH test against a small batch of new water, or someone elses PH test if you can, and be sure your salinity and temperature are stable.
Considering you removed sand, added new sand, moved the tank, and effectively did about an 80% water change, and manually stimulated your bacterial colony, I'd give it a bit to settle and wait and see for a few days before disturbing anything.
Definitely run your skimmer a bit wetter than usual, but keep your eye on salinity as you top off. Running "wet" so to speak will over a pretty short period of time actually, affect your salinity as you top off for evap because you are removing a bit more water than just the evap. And small changes can be significant in smaller volumes of water.
I also wouldn't be surprised to hear that you develop a small bacterial cloud over the next couple of days. That's not to say you will, but it is a possibility.
I think you'll find that if you monitor your temperature and salinity closely, run the skimmer just a tad wetter than usual, and test regularly, you'll see the whole thing start to right itself over the next few days.
Before you add anything, I would give it a bit to settle down. Definitely check your PH test against a small batch of new water, or someone elses PH test if you can, and be sure your salinity and temperature are stable.
Considering you removed sand, added new sand, moved the tank, and effectively did about an 80% water change, and manually stimulated your bacterial colony, I'd give it a bit to settle and wait and see for a few days before disturbing anything.
Definitely run your skimmer a bit wetter than usual, but keep your eye on salinity as you top off. Running "wet" so to speak will over a pretty short period of time actually, affect your salinity as you top off for evap because you are removing a bit more water than just the evap. And small changes can be significant in smaller volumes of water.
I also wouldn't be surprised to hear that you develop a small bacterial cloud over the next couple of days. That's not to say you will, but it is a possibility.
I think you'll find that if you monitor your temperature and salinity closely, run the skimmer just a tad wetter than usual, and test regularly, you'll see the whole thing start to right itself over the next few days.
Hey Kevin, how's your tank coming along?
kevin
NJRC Member
Hey! I appreciate all the info you gave me. Been a little busy with getting everything out of boxes!
Temp: 78-79 (controlled by APEX & ehiem 150w heater)
Salinity: 1.025
I've got the bubble wand in there producing lot more air(temp)
My pH hit 7.89 yesterday.
I woke up and it was 7.67.
I have water made, but have to put the salt and mix it still.
All my corals and fish look fine. Only casualty was my favorite Zoa is melting.
Clam looks like it lost a little bit of it's color. I've only had it for a monthish.
Tentacles & everything come out at night to eat.
Temp: 78-79 (controlled by APEX & ehiem 150w heater)
Salinity: 1.025
I've got the bubble wand in there producing lot more air(temp)
My pH hit 7.89 yesterday.
I woke up and it was 7.67.
I have water made, but have to put the salt and mix it still.
All my corals and fish look fine. Only casualty was my favorite Zoa is melting.
Clam looks like it lost a little bit of it's color. I've only had it for a monthish.
Tentacles & everything come out at night to eat.
kevin
NJRC Member
Well another week has gone by. The pH has peaked at 8.02 during the late afternoon. It drops down to 7.93 during the very early morning it seems.
I ordered a American Marine pinpoint pH probe(which arrived today). I'm able to have two running with the apex. I also ordered another temperature probe because the water doesn't seem as warm as it should be(this is all going on touch). I really didn't know what to calibrate the temp probe with if it was out of sink. So I just ordered another since they're already calibrated just to be safe .
I ordered a American Marine pinpoint pH probe(which arrived today). I'm able to have two running with the apex. I also ordered another temperature probe because the water doesn't seem as warm as it should be(this is all going on touch). I really didn't know what to calibrate the temp probe with if it was out of sink. So I just ordered another since they're already calibrated just to be safe .
i dunno if this may or may not be a factor , but have you try opening a window in your house for a few hours? the reason why i said this its cause the CO2 content in your house (AC,cooking,washer and dryer) could raise the Co2, not enough to hurt you, but enough to lower the PH in your tank.
just a suggestion.
also have you checked the water coming into your house for a Ph value, maybe its coming in at neutral (7.0) and after u add salt etc etc its lowering your total PH. just a though.
just a suggestion.
also have you checked the water coming into your house for a Ph value, maybe its coming in at neutral (7.0) and after u add salt etc etc its lowering your total PH. just a though.
Kevin, looks like the system is slowly starting to auto correct itself.
Have you tested a new salt water batch for salinity and PH?
Are you getting any ammonia, nitrite or elevated nitrates during your regular tank testing?
If you are seeing no ammonia or nitrite during regular water testing using a known good test, and you are getting solid numbers on your newly mixed salt water, then it may be time for about a 20% water change. I wouldn't do more than that because your system under went a significant shock, and you want to bring your parameters back into check slowly. Anything too sudden will just shock the system again.
The reason I ask about test results on newly mixed salt water is because it is not unheard of for salt mix to be off parameters, either because of a bad batch, or because of sitting too long between uses. That's one of the reasons I will usually spend more money for smaller sealed bags of salt, and try to use them as quickly as possible upon opening. It guarantees the most reliable salt mix each time. Buying large buckets of salt that may sit around for long lengths of time is not always the best thing to do, especially if you can't get a good solid "mixing" of the salt before measuring it out. If you are buying salt in large buckets, it is also prone to inconsistent parameters if it is not properly "mixed" as a powder before introducing it to water, and is also (snap on lid or not) prone to environmental factors like humidity.
Have you tested a new salt water batch for salinity and PH?
Are you getting any ammonia, nitrite or elevated nitrates during your regular tank testing?
If you are seeing no ammonia or nitrite during regular water testing using a known good test, and you are getting solid numbers on your newly mixed salt water, then it may be time for about a 20% water change. I wouldn't do more than that because your system under went a significant shock, and you want to bring your parameters back into check slowly. Anything too sudden will just shock the system again.
The reason I ask about test results on newly mixed salt water is because it is not unheard of for salt mix to be off parameters, either because of a bad batch, or because of sitting too long between uses. That's one of the reasons I will usually spend more money for smaller sealed bags of salt, and try to use them as quickly as possible upon opening. It guarantees the most reliable salt mix each time. Buying large buckets of salt that may sit around for long lengths of time is not always the best thing to do, especially if you can't get a good solid "mixing" of the salt before measuring it out. If you are buying salt in large buckets, it is also prone to inconsistent parameters if it is not properly "mixed" as a powder before introducing it to water, and is also (snap on lid or not) prone to environmental factors like humidity.
One more thing, I didn't notice whether you said you had a sump with macro in it or not?
If you do, run your sump lighting directly opposite your tank lighting. That will help stabilize the PH swing that occurs over night.
If you do, run your sump lighting directly opposite your tank lighting. That will help stabilize the PH swing that occurs over night.
kevin
NJRC Member
I hooked up the new pH probe & it's reading 1.03 higher then my base Apex one. I shut the windows yesterday afternoon & they're shut now because we turned our A/C on. Currently the pH on one probe is 7.83 and the other is 7.97
I have no ammonia. I'll check my nitrite & nitrate levels again tonight or tomorrow.
I'll measure the pH of a new bucket tomorrow(salinity is fine in the salt). I am using new RC salt from a box from a njreefers group buy we did a few months ago. I put the remaining salt in an old salt bucket.
I do have the refug light running 24/7.
I have no ammonia. I'll check my nitrite & nitrate levels again tonight or tomorrow.
I'll measure the pH of a new bucket tomorrow(salinity is fine in the salt). I am using new RC salt from a box from a njreefers group buy we did a few months ago. I put the remaining salt in an old salt bucket.
I do have the refug light running 24/7.
yeah im not an expert but i think you should find the reson of the pH drop instead of a patch,, if ur noticing the ph drop by adjusting the windows. then i personally think ONE of the reason was like i say the Co2 in ur house, there could be other factors as well.. have u tested the tap water for PH? if so whats the reading?
i would be as all in your bizz. if maybe u can say what laundry/stove u have (gas/electric) maybe your ac unit could be releasing some.. just a though
i would be as all in your bizz. if maybe u can say what laundry/stove u have (gas/electric) maybe your ac unit could be releasing some.. just a though