Mysterious Deaths

[diana a]

I don't ever test my water except calcium/alk, don't even have the other test kits. I know it's bad practice but I figure my corals or nems would let me know if something was up even before the fish.....


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your corals can take a swing in ammonia and nitrate and not tell you but it can kill your fish. You need a test kit and that is bought before you get your first fish.

Are you spraying anything in your room during the day? example: deodorant, furniture spray, windex, medication

 

[Trio91]

The testing could also be human error, so it would be great to get a second opinion.....in this case your lfs

 

[Tyler]

your corals can take a swing in ammonia and nitrate and not tell you but it can kill your fish. You need a test kit and that is bought before you get your first fish.

Are you spraying anything in your room during the day? example: deodorant, furniture spray, windex, medication

No, I don't spray anything in my bedroom. Not in years because I have quite a few fish tanks and frogs, both of which absorb through their skins.


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[JRWOHLER]

What kind of nems do you have, not all are clownfish safe. Clownfish are very hardy so generally they will outlive all but maybe damsels (which they are in that family I know).

 

[Tyler]

What kind of nems do you have, not all are clownfish safe. Clownfish are very hardy so generally they will outlive all but maybe damsels (which they are in that family I know).

Not anemones that can be hosted or even attempted, just there because I enjoy feeding them.


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[JRWOHLER]

OK was looking for a non standard issue problem .... it is certainly puzzling.

 

[Tyler]

OK was looking for a non standard issue problem .... it is certainly puzzling.

I had a similar problem months ago with my other clowns, before I had any anemones or corals that could sting (only one I have that can now is a goniastrea and tentacles werent out at the time). So even if he did accidentally brush up against it something else happened last time. He has no visible marks this morning so I still really am lost


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[diana a]

when did you do your last water change?

 

[Tyler]

when did you do your last water change?

A month and a half ago. I don't get to the fish store often and my parents don't like taking me because I spend a good amount of time just enjoying all the stuff in there. Unless I can get a delivery truck of saltwater every 2 weeks they won't really happen lol. I don't think its water change related either way because its only ever the clownfish, never my inverts or other fish. I'm really just trying to find out if there is a clownfish only disease other than brooklynella because they don't have the heavy slime associated with that


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[diana a]

you can buy 5 gallon water jugs at Tropiquium. Have 4 of them and you will have 4 weeks worth of changes.

How are you topping off? Please don't say you have a glass lid

 

[Tyler]

you can buy 5 gallon water jugs at Tropiquium. Have 4 of them and you will have 4 weeks worth of changes.

How are you topping off? Please don't say you have a glass lid

I don't, I have an acrylic lid I made. [emoji23]
It covers about 80% of the top and the rest is egg crate. I bought 2 jugs from trop but I can't make it to there that often to refill. I top off with the 5 gallon poland spring containers that get delivered to the house


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[diana a]

Sorry dude but going 6 weeks without a water change and not testing your water parameters is not good practice. You have a responsibility to your animals.

Basic measuring needs needed for all marine tanks:

1. ammonia
2. SG
3. temperature
4. alkalinity
   

Kits for reef tanks with stony corals or coralline:

1. calcium
2. magnesium

Kits sometimes useful for trouble-shooting or preparing reef tanks with stony corals or coralline:

1. phosphate
2. nitrate
3. nitrite
4. pH

Here is a chart you can refer to when you get your test kits. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm



You would be surprised if you used a TDS meter. Bottled water can have 30 -50 PPM. I do not recommend using bottle water, ro/di is the way to go, unless I was in a pinch and needed water. Bottle water would be a better choice than what most likely will come out of your pipes.

Tap water often contains impurities that can cause problems when added to an aquarium. These may include phosphates, nitrates, chlorine, and various heavy metals. Phosphates and nitrates can cause algae blooms. Copper is often present in tap water due to leaching from pipes and is highly toxic to invertebrates. A RO/DI filter removes practically all of these impurities.

 

[Tyler]

I know people who don't ever do water changes and everything is happy and healthy. In the past I have had tanks for years and never did water changes. I really am not concerned about my water quality due to my corals growing well and having good polyp extension, and am pretty sure when I get it checked it will come out nearly perfect. On the bottled water though, I have very little algae as well so I don't think that its adding TDS because that usually results in algal growth, right?


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[Trio91]

you can run tanks without doing water changes...but going that route means that you're adding some form of trace elements to the tank in the form of dosing/Balling method....(which im going to assume you are not doing) so just topping off with plain spring water is not going to work. Your corals are and will continue to consume trace elements which normally can be replaced via water changes and by supplementing....

if there is any algae at all in your tank, even a very small amount, then you for sure have N's n P's in your tank...so by adding spring water as a top off & not doing water changes, more than likely is your main source....also know that different corals have different tolerances when it comes to nitrates, so you could have good polyp extension but it could be a "stunted version".

 

[Tyler]

you can run tanks without doing water changes...but going that route means that you're adding some form of trace elements to the tank in the form of dosing/Balling method....(which im going to assume you are not doing) so just topping off with plain spring water is not going to work. Your corals are and will continue to consume trace elements which normally can be replaced via water changes and by supplementing....

if there is any algae at all in your tank, even a very small amount, then you for sure have N's n P's in your tank...so by adding spring water as a top off & not doing water changes, more than likely is your main source....also know that different corals have different tolerances when it comes to nitrates, so you could have good polyp extension but it could be a "stunted version".

I do dose trace elements, bought them before I even began feeding my corals. Every tank needs a little bit of nitrate and phosphate from my understanding, I have heard lots of stories about corals losing color from having a lack of it because people try to get both to zero. You just don't want them very high

 

[njtiger24 aquariums]

Ok this is my suggestion take it as you will.

1. Don't add anything else to your tank at this moment.
2. Log everything you do to your tank for the next month+. I mean everytime you turn something on/off, add food, clean, dose, etc...
3. Get a test kit, even the API Master kits are fine
4. Once you go a month+ with no lose and everything seems good I would add 1 clown (or another live stock) and repeat steps 1-3 to see if you see any trends)

I agree with @JRWOHLER that is an odd issue cause most clown fish are hardy. Some people even use them as a cycle fish. Personally I feel there might be a electrical issue that might be zaping the clowns mainly if they tend to sleep in the same location it might be something in that area of your tank.

Can you give a full list of all of your live stock (corals and fish)?

 

[Tyler]

I don't have any corals with sweepers except my goniastrea so I don't think I will list the others unless you think I should.
Fish are my 2 clowns and a banggai cardinal.
Inverts are 2 flower anemones, an emerald crab, and some hermits and snails. The clowns sleep in the top corner on the opposite side of all my equipment, there are no and I mean no electronics over there. I do have an API liquid kit sitting collecting dust because everybody said its not accurate at all and isn't worth using. I know clowns are generally really hardy and these guys do great, they just seem to be perfect and suddenly at night things go wrong. Last night I am quite sure he attempted to jump out right before I found him in the rocks no longer moving because I heard a loud splash and the lid bang. My dad thought maybe low oxygen because my sump is out for now but my powerhead makes a lot of surface movement and my other fish were fine so I don't think thats it.


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[njtiger24 aquariums]

I can tell you by first hand API kits are not as bad as everyone make them out to be -

I still suggest listing everything. You might be over looking something and not evening realizing it. Also could there be a hitchhiker in the rocks near their sleeping area?

I don't have a sump on my 36g tank and don't have an issues with oxygen as you said as long as you have surface movement you should be good. Also if they were looking for oxygen you would see them near the top trying to catch their breath.

With the loud splash I am more and more thinking there something in your tank attacking them. I have had 4 different types of clowns and the only time I had a clown 'jump' was when it was being chases by the female and my tomato clown at the same time and he was trying to escape. Other than that I never had a clown jump/splash.

I know @trio91 had/have one of those killing shrimps. hiding in a rock of his

 

[Tyler]

Here is a pic of my tank a few weeks ago. They sleep at the very top left by where the return normally is. I think they're too far away from the rock to get attacked by anything, no?

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[Tyler]

I will try my best to list all my corals.
Goniastrea
Kenya tree
Zoas and paly
Gorgonian
Green star polyps
Acropora
Ricordea
A few species of montipora
Toadstool leather


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