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Need help leaking bulkhead

Hey everyone so my rock is all cured, and thanks to some fellow njreefers I have all the equipment I need to get going on my tank. I tried pumping water into and the bulkhead for the return is leaking. This is also my first attempt with a reef ready tank so I'm not sure how they work. I readjusted the o-ring about a hundred times and it won't stop leaking.

Any suggestions would be great, however if anyone in the greater Essex County area could come by and maybe give me a hand with it; I would provide beer and food!!

Just wanna get my tank running!

Thanks
Paul
 

kschweer

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If you can remove the bulkhead and clean the glass around the hole. Also just to be sure the gasket always goes on the inside (where the water is). Tighten the bulkhead as tight as you can by hand and then only 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench. Over tightening can lead to leaks too
 
I just took aquarium sealant and sealed mine Dance. I couldnt get it to stop dripping even after replacing the seals & only hand tightening or just slightly with a wrench as suggested above. I knew I wasn't going to be needing to take off the fittings to the bulkheads since I had disconnects on my drains and my returns..
 

kschweer

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I just took aquarium sealant and sealed mine Dance. I couldnt get it to stop dripping even after replacing the seals & only hand tightening or just slightly with a wrench as suggested above. I knew I wasn't going to be needing to take off the fittings to the bulkheads since I had disconnects on my drains and my returns..

This will work but the only issues is that the silicone does not adhere well to the rubber and may eventually break free of it. I'm not saying it will happen for sure but it can. You can also try getting your hands on some plumbers lube such as magic lube to put in the gasket. Also only use one gasket. Some bulkheads come with 2 for some reason.
 
The gasket always goes on the flange side. Doesn't make a difference where the water is. Silicone can make more problems than it fixes.
 

kschweer

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The gasket always goes on the flange side. Doesn't make a difference where the water is. Silicone can make more problems than it fixes.

That's what I was saying. Not too many times the flange is on the outside especially when inside an overflow box.
 
Well I scrubbed it clean and put some lube on it and low and behold it is no longer leaking!!! I have it filled with water now to leak test it, I gotta go grab some salt and start making more water for it!
Thanks for the help guys!!
 

kschweer

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Well I scrubbed it clean and put some lube on it and low and behold it is no longer leaking!!! I have it filled with water now to leak test it, I gotta go grab some salt and start making more water for it!
Thanks for the help guys!!

Glad to hear it.
 

redfishbluefish

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Well I scrubbed it clean and put some lube on it and low and behold it is no longer leaking!!! I have it filled with water now to leak test it, I gotta go grab some salt and start making more water for it!
Thanks for the help guys!!


What kind of lube? Petroleum based lubes cause the rubber to swell and eventually fail. Non petroleum lubes should only be used sparingly. If I use a lube on a bulkhead gasket, I put it on and then pretty much wipe off as much as I can. If there is too much lube, the gasket squeezes out from the flange.
 
I actually used plain old KY jelly, and I didn't use much at all. I figured it would be fine considering it's actual use, plus I use it all the time on my drysuit seals and it doesn't harm them.

It's been full of water for about 4 hours now so I guess we'll see!
 

redfishbluefish

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Now there’s a first…..KY jelly. :grin:

I believe KY is a carboxymethlycellulose (CMC) where it is a pinch of this CMC and the rest is all water (probably 97-98 percent water.) It is only a temporary lubricant for as long as the water is there. Once the water evaporates, no more lubricant. It was developed for specific applications…..but is rubber safe. So you’re good in that regard.

If you are interested in a true rubber lubricant which will help in application as well as extending the life of your rubber, then a non-petroleum lubricant should be used. If you like to spend money, plumber’s grease can be purchase at HD or Lowes for $10-$12 for a miniscule, little tube. I prefer buying Leslie’s Pool Lube. You get a big life-time supply for $7, and it’s good to go for aquarium applications. I use this on all my rubber parts.

IMG_1233.jpg
 

fatoldsun

NJRC Member
Now there’s a first…..KY jelly. :grin:

I believe KY is a carboxymethlycellulose (CMC) where it is a pinch of this CMC and the rest is all water (probably 97-98 percent water.) It is only a temporary lubricant for as long as the water is there. Once the water evaporates, no more lubricant. It was developed for specific applications…..but is rubber safe. So you’re good in that regard.

If you are interested in a true rubber lubricant which will help in application as well as extending the life of your rubber, then a non-petroleum lubricant should be used. If you like to spend money, plumber’s grease can be purchase at HD or Lowes for $10-$12 for a miniscule, little tube. I prefer buying Leslie’s Pool Lube. You get a big life-time supply for $7, and it’s good to go for aquarium applications. I use this on all my rubber parts.

IMG_1233.jpg

Rubber, lube, KY...
C'mon. This is a family place. Shame on you...
 
I agree this thread has become a little naughty but my KY solution seems to be working, held tap water all night, now it's half full of RO/DI and still looks good. I figure it will take me the rest of the week to fill completely. I'll start a build thread soon!
 

fatoldsun

NJRC Member
Mine seemed fine until about 6 months in I started to notice some salt creep collecting in the drain. It's developed into a slow drip now, about 3-4 drips/minute and it drips right into the sump so no biggie but it does mean that I have to redo the plumbing eventually. I'm not crazy about reef ready for this reason but its a necessary evil when the only accessibility is below. As much as I'd prefer a glass holes kit-style I wouldn't want the plumbing behind the tank where I couldn't get to it if I need to service something. Anyway if it isn't leaking or doesn't appear to be with just fresh water don't underestimate the ability for a VERY small amount to evaporate - something you may not notice until it leaves salt creep behind. A good idea to have the plumbing set up so any drips find their way back to the sump. Then it's nothing your return pump can't correct for you...
 
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