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need some help with overflow and sump

M

medachef

Well i just set up my weir style overflow and sump. I tested it last night with out a stand pipe and i worked great (but with the slurping sound coming from the drain). The return pump matched up nicely with the overflow so i thought the only thing i had to do was quiet it down. So, to silence it i made a durso stand pipe. Now it's not slurping.

But now i have new problems. Sure there is no more slurp from the overflow, but there is a flushing, gurgling, and every once and a while an underwater farting sound as it enters the sump. Also, the return pump is now pumping too fast. It drains the return section really fast and then becomes a venturi in the display.

Here are the specs...

20 Gallon high
Weir style overflow rated at 300 ghp with a 3/4" bulk head
Mag5 return pump rated at a little over 300 ghp at 4' of head pressure.
12 gallon custom sump.

Also whats the best way to clean T5 reflectors?? Got a little spray on the tek light fixture when the pump decided to go venturi on me.

Arrgh... i was soo close, yet so far.
 
T

tbone212371

did you drill a small hole in the cap of the durso?
This helps sometimes but start small then go larger in diameter.
also as for the pump install a valve after the pump (Ball valve)and use the valve to restrict or meter the flow a little on the return.
Do the valve 1st. then if that all doesn't work then go the vented...
 
Hawkeye

Hawkeye

i was thinking the same thing - the hole. When I cover the hole with my finger - you get the flushing sound.
 
M

medachef

i did a hole. first 1/64 then 1/32. maybe i'll do it a little larger. ball valve is what i figured. I also heard that the drain line should be just below the water line. Mine is pretty submerged... could that be a problem??
 
Hawkeye

Hawkeye

no that can't be it. I built my dursos per the website and the cap is flush with the overflow...so that makes the drain a good few inches lower than that water line of the display tank.

The hole sounds too small to me.
 
JohnS_323

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Having the drain line totally submerged could be contributing to the problem. On all of my lines, I have the drain line stop at the surface of the water at the sumps operating level. I put a 90* elbow at the end of the drain line so that half the elbow is under water and half is above. This allows the drain water to flow smoothly with no back pressure, plus avoids any splashing from having it fall into the sump. The key to this, though, is having some sort of auto top off that keeps the water level consistent.

I also agree with the idea of using a ball valve to control the amount of water being returned to your display. The only comment I have is that you should add a Tee to the return line so that water can either go to the display or back to the sump. Put the ball valve on the leg that returns to the sump and use it to regulate how much goes to the display. This will allow your pump to run unrestricted which is better for it in the long run.
 
M

medachef

hey hawkeye, i just read your link... just drill a hole in the cap... that allows air to enter, therefore eliminating the airline tube
 
Hawkeye

Hawkeye

medachef said:
hey hawkeye, i just read your link... just drill a hole in the cap... that allows air to enter, therefore eliminating the airline tube
Click to expand...

dang i am a moron. :-X I saw the thread and thought it might help you...didn't realize it's like from years ago and they guy didn't put a hole in the cap! lol.

Sorry about that.
 
D

ds4x4

this is what i have on the 220 and my water level pretty much stays at the top of the pipe..

DSCN1602.jpg

DSCN1604.jpg
 
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