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New Build

Trio91

Administrator
Staff member
Moderator
Plan it on paper 1st and Dry fit everything before you glue....its also helpful to mark ends so that you can remember how to reassemble. Some say threaded ($$$), other have used Slip ($$) so go with what you can afford....use as many union fittings as possible at/around key points (pumps, manifolds, algae scrubbers etc) so maintenance can be easier. Personally, if possible (budget wise) use gate valves instead of ball...ball valves get super "tight" over time unless you get a premium unit (like a cepex) and become difficult to turn or can break. mixed reviews on check valves so that will be a personal preference....for me they worked until they didn't (if that makes sense)...they need to be serviced periodically in order to maintain its effectiveness

BRS did a test on flow between 90' and 45' fittings and found that there was a insignificant difference in loss of flow between the 2
 

njtiger24 aquariums

Officer Emeritus
Article Contributor
to add to Marcus's statement I personally like slip better than threaded. I can never get the threads tight enough to prevent leaks. Dry fitting is def key.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I have a few more questions if you're bored on a Saturday....
  • At a past Reefapalooza I saw spheres (little bit smaller than tennis balls), to be used as a supplement to rubble rock for fuge setups. The suggested value add was that these spheres at extremely high surface areas for the footprint. Anyone know who makes them?
  • For the Viking ship, we are going to use a model that we modify. Do you have suggestions as to what materials would be reef safe? How we could potentially seal it?
  • I've used epoxy in the past and its made my skimmer go nuts. Any suggested brands and products to adhere rock together? Looking for quality.
  • Any advice for finding relatively inexpensive dry rock or real reef rock? What stores or brands would you suggest?
 

njtiger24 aquariums

Officer Emeritus
Article Contributor
Any advice for finding relatively inexpensive dry rock or real reef rock? What stores or brands would you suggest?

I ordered some dry rock from BRS. This is what I ordered - BRS Reef Saver Aquarium Dry Live Rock. Now this is my first time using this rock. It looks nice in my tank and has many holes and cracks and what not for more surface area.

Now I don't use anything to hold my rocks together (yes I know could be bad).

I have heard good things about Macro rocks - Dry Rock | Dry Live Rock | Aquarium Dry Rock - Marco Rocks but never used it.
 

Trio91

Administrator
Staff member
Moderator
Just in case you need to get behind that beast, like to service a check valve or something, make sure you can easily get behind it.

Aside from that, the build is coming along nicely
 
Sorry for the delay for those that are following. Here's a few pictures of the progress. I'd say about half way there. We still have to install the lights, tie in the Neptune system, add salt, and start building the skin. In addition, we are trying to find a good water level as of right now I'm a bit annoyed with how low it is.

IMG_0147.JPG IMG_0148.JPG IMG_0149.JPG Headed to reefapalooza this weekend to spend all the money I don't have on coral and gadgets.
 
Hey Guys, I could use some advice. I have a ecotech return pump running my tank. At its highest setting, it wants to overflow. At its second highest, it wants to overflow over time. At its 3rd highest setting, the water level is too low. Any ideas?
 

njtiger24 aquariums

Officer Emeritus
Article Contributor
Hey Guys, I could use some advice. I have a ecotech return pump running my tank. At its highest setting, it wants to overflow. At its second highest, it wants to overflow over time. At its 3rd highest setting, the water level is too low. Any ideas?
could you use like a ball value to help fine tune one of the other two settings?
 
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