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new fish and ich infomation

N

nightmarepl

NJRC Member
so my new tank will be going up soon and was wondering any easier ways to get new fish in the tank without the chances of getting ich introduced 2 years ago i did a copper treatment on my fish and don't plan on doing it again ideas thoughts suggestions ?
 
MadReefer

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
nightmarepl said:
so my new tank will be going up soon and was wondering any easier ways to get new fish in the tank without the chances of getting ich introduced 2 years ago i did a copper treatment on my fish and don't plan on doing it again ideas thoughts suggestions ?
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Can you QT them with no meds for a while just to observe them? If not reach out to Paul B; I just started reading his book.
 
N

nightmarepl

NJRC Member
MadReefer said:
Can you QT them with no meds for a while just to observe them? If not reach out to Paul B; I just started reading his book.
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i read some of his articles interesting stuff honestly. ive only done a QT tank once only problem for is testing that copper water keeping the water with enough copper to kill off any ich / egg cycle is the hard part sadly
 
N

nightmarepl

NJRC Member
MadReefer said:
Can you QT them with no meds for a while just to observe them? If not reach out to Paul B; I just started reading his book.
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what about inverts i was thinking of buying a large snail hermit cleaner crew how would you treat those from not carrying an eggs? humblefish says 70 day QT for those
 
MadReefer

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
nightmarepl said:
what about inverts i was thinking of buying a large snail hermit cleaner crew how would you treat those from not carrying an eggs? humblefish says 70 day QT for those
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I never QT inverts as I most meds are harmful to them. I guess keeping them separate for a while wouldn't hurt if you have the room.
 
N

nightmarepl

NJRC Member
MadReefer said:
I never QT inverts as I most meds are harmful to them. I guess keeping them separate for a while wouldn't hurt if you have the room.
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ever get ich from a snail or hermit who knows what they keep all these inverts in could have eggs on them thinking best bet would be 5-10gallon QT for atleast 30 days with like 80 degrees to get those eggs hatched and dead
 
B

brokereefer

Actually, keeping the copper level up shouldn't be too hard IF you have the ability to run a QT. You just dose with Copper Power and test a couple times with the Hannah checker to make sure it's above 2.0. After that, the level doesn't drop unless you do a water change, and if you need to do that, you just basically dose your clean water to 2.0 before adding to your tank. In a 30 day QT, I change water only once generally.

Point is, the hard part about QT isn't the copper. It's having space to run a QT itself. The supplies themselves are cheap as well - you just need a 20 gallon tank, heater, air pump, and HOB filter plus some Copper Power and some Prime. An ammonia badge is helpful also.

Inverts and coral are a different story. They can't go through copper, so you'd need to have a separate fish-free system for 76 days to guarantee that they're ich-free. Plenty of people don't QT inverts and corals though - since ich can't actually live in them, you're just basically worrying about whether you're introducing it from the water on their surfaces. It's a small but non-zero chance of introducing ich to your system that way.

Alternatively, if you really don't want to QT with copper, then use tank transfer method (TTM). Plus is that you don't have to dose and measure copper. Minus is that you need at least 2 QT setups and have to wash stuff in between.

And finally, you always have the option of buying from sources that already QT'd for you. These include TSM Aquatics, Quarantined Fish, and ReefPro. I'm sure there are others as well. But these sites have quarantined fish and inverts that you can dump straight into your tank. A little more expensive, but you get peace of mind and less hassle.
 
N

nightmarepl

NJRC Member
brokereefer said:
Actually, keeping the copper level up shouldn't be too hard IF you have the ability to run a QT. You just dose with Copper Power and test a couple times with the Hannah checker to make sure it's above 2.0. After that, the level doesn't drop unless you do a water change, and if you need to do that, you just basically dose your clean water to 2.0 before adding to your tank. In a 30 day QT, I change water only once generally.

Point is, the hard part about QT isn't the copper. It's having space to run a QT itself. The supplies themselves are cheap as well - you just need a 20 gallon tank, heater, air pump, and HOB filter plus some Copper Power and some Prime. An ammonia badge is helpful also.

Inverts and coral are a different story. They can't go through copper, so you'd need to have a separate fish-free system for 76 days to guarantee that they're ich-free. Plenty of people don't QT inverts and corals though - since ich can't actually live in them, you're just basically worrying about whether you're introducing it from the water on their surfaces. It's a small but non-zero chance of introducing ich to your system that way.

Alternatively, if you really don't want to QT with copper, then use tank transfer method (TTM). Plus is that you don't have to dose and measure copper. Minus is that you need at least 2 QT setups and have to wash stuff in between.

And finally, you always have the option of buying from sources that already QT'd for you. These include TSM Aquatics, Quarantined Fish, and ReefPro. I'm sure there are others as well. But these sites have quarantined fish and inverts that you can dump straight into your tank. A little more expensive, but you get peace of mind and less hassle.
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im definitely gonna run a QT first one will definitely be just for snails and crabs for a good 30 days just to be safe then maybe a fresh water rinse
then im change that tank into copper tank with a few new fish im planning to buy
 
Foxchase

Foxchase

I QT everything. Got ich once and then because of no bio load, i got dinos because i couldn't get my levels up. Then cyano after. Copper isn't hard to keep at a stable level honestly. The only fish i didn't QT were a lyretail anthias and a flasher wrasse but i specifically bought them from TSM because they QT the fish before selling
 
M

Mike S

I was just going to point him in your direction @Humblefish and the hybrid TTM.

I’ve had several wrasses go through QT recently and did not do transfers due to concerns of stressing them out. I instead opted to give medicated baths, followed by observation with black mollies and two rounds of praxis pro. Lots of info on Humblefish’s link. Suggest reading through the options and then start asking questions.
 
Goodair

Goodair

Copper, or tank transfer method, you need to read up on what fishes can tolerate what. Really defeats the purpose of treating a fish if the copper does more harm than good.
 
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