Feel free to ask questions about the tank. Im to lazy at the moment to type everything up on what im running on the tank at the moment lol.
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NJR's 55G
- Thread starter NewJerseyReefer
- Start date
1 blue damsel and 1 mollie
The ro/di isnt set up yet im waitin on my float valve hopefully it gets here before friday.
howze01
NJRC Member
Did you add a DI chamber? I thought it was just RO?
I guess we can always answer the question we had about that unit in here too.
He has a 3 chamber & membrane RO unit. He has sediment filter, a carbon filter and a 3rd space for another of one of those filters. Can he get another canister for the 3rd chamber and add DI resin to it so it's a DI unit also? Is there something else that would need to be done to make it a DI unit?
I guess we can always answer the question we had about that unit in here too.
He has a 3 chamber & membrane RO unit. He has sediment filter, a carbon filter and a 3rd space for another of one of those filters. Can he get another canister for the 3rd chamber and add DI resin to it so it's a DI unit also? Is there something else that would need to be done to make it a DI unit?
Pictures of your Ro/di system set up would be nice ^_^
howze01
NJRC Member
As would yours in case I described it poorly.I was just looking at mine and it seems like the DI chamber comes off of the membrane. In his I think the DI would come before the membrane if it was set up as I described it. Would that matter? Would it just go through resin faster?
Water should flow through the: 1) Sediment filter, 2) Carbon Block, 3) Membrane, and 4) DI resin in that order.
My 55G will be one SPECIAL REEF TANK lol =)
Heres a picture of the ro/di i had to take it apart in order to clean it out it was so freaking messy with spiders webs on it and all. But i forgot to take a picture of the osmosine how ever you spell that lol.
Make the two white ones your sediment and carbon block filters and use the clear one with your color changing DI resin so you can watch it change purdy colors. 
You might consider adding one of these at some point:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...es/dual-inline-tds-meter-dm-1-hm-digital.html
and one of these:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...-di-accessories/pressure-gauge-1-100-psi.html
This will help you determine when to replace the "prefilters"
it will help you determine when it's time to replace the membrane and resin.
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.
Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (Chlorine Guzzler) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.
Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.
The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?
If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.
The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membranes advertisedrejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.
After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin 'dirty' water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin, remember that all resins are not created equal!
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...es/dual-inline-tds-meter-dm-1-hm-digital.html
and one of these:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...-di-accessories/pressure-gauge-1-100-psi.html
This will help you determine when to replace the "prefilters"
it will help you determine when it's time to replace the membrane and resin.
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.
Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (Chlorine Guzzler) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.
Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.
The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?
If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.
The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membranes advertisedrejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.
After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin 'dirty' water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin, remember that all resins are not created equal!
Did you type all this up? If so give a few mins to read all this.
Did check BRS but they charge 8 bucks for shipping to NJ. But any ways how many GPD do you recommend for a 55G well make it a 60G. I do 10G water change and 1 gallon a day it evorates in my sump.
This is all I use, should be good for most anyone, but I have good city water to start with. If your city's MUA uses cloramines then you might have to get something more specific for that.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gpd-ro-di-4-stage-economy-system.html
75 or 90 GPD, any more than that and they say the rejection rate on the higher membranes is not as good. I'm going down to TB Aquatics for some RO supplies for another member, if you need anything let me know and I can pick it up for you, no shipping charges!
75 or 90 GPD, any more than that and they say the rejection rate on the higher membranes is not as good. I'm going down to TB Aquatics for some RO supplies for another member, if you need anything let me know and I can pick it up for you, no shipping charges!
Pm sent
