fatoldsun
NJRC Member
My plumbing has developed a slow leak at the drain bulkhead. Seems to be coming through the threads as opposed to around the flange nut. I'm not sure that means anything but I was able to slow it from 2 drips a minute to 1 drip every 3 minutes or so with some plumbers putty on/around the threads. My setup is as follows:
Standard AGA 90 reef ready overflow with a 1" drain and a 3/4" return. Currently I have "slip" bulkheads to rigid PVC. Drain is split 70-75% to my filter sock/skimmer and the rest to my refugium. My sump has the return in the middle so I'm stuck with splitting the drain. Here's a shot although it's hard to see what's going on with the pipes
I may be able to loosen and re-tighten the existing 1" but I have to clean the overflow & prepare for the worst which means draining and removing the sump. PITA. Once I do that I'd like to consider redesigning the set up b/c as was already suggested this leak likely started b/c of torque on the pipes. Should be noted that the return is dry but the return and drain tie together so common vibration problems could be transferred to the drain side. If I re-do I won't be doing this again.
That's the set-up. Anyone have suggestions of what they did that's different. I've already thought I'd go with isolated drain and return. I considered using flex for the return to cut down turbulence and eliminate some of my micro bubbles. Has anyone used "threaded" bulkheads instead of "slip"? (threaded, not "barbed"). This would save gluing in the PVC and having to scrap the bulkheads with each problem. I'd also like to be able to close the drain when I'm doing WCs or switching my filter sock. Right now I have ball valve on both the return and the drain plus I have valves on the drain after the split to meter the flow to the fuge vs the skimmer. Is there any way to achieve this w/o rigid PVC?
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I already made the mistake of trying to do this panicked in the middle of the night. Way too stressful. This is a drip, not an emergency. It's not likely going away w/o repair but I can do it in an organized way. I much prefer working with a plan to operating in crisis mode
Standard AGA 90 reef ready overflow with a 1" drain and a 3/4" return. Currently I have "slip" bulkheads to rigid PVC. Drain is split 70-75% to my filter sock/skimmer and the rest to my refugium. My sump has the return in the middle so I'm stuck with splitting the drain. Here's a shot although it's hard to see what's going on with the pipes
I may be able to loosen and re-tighten the existing 1" but I have to clean the overflow & prepare for the worst which means draining and removing the sump. PITA. Once I do that I'd like to consider redesigning the set up b/c as was already suggested this leak likely started b/c of torque on the pipes. Should be noted that the return is dry but the return and drain tie together so common vibration problems could be transferred to the drain side. If I re-do I won't be doing this again.
That's the set-up. Anyone have suggestions of what they did that's different. I've already thought I'd go with isolated drain and return. I considered using flex for the return to cut down turbulence and eliminate some of my micro bubbles. Has anyone used "threaded" bulkheads instead of "slip"? (threaded, not "barbed"). This would save gluing in the PVC and having to scrap the bulkheads with each problem. I'd also like to be able to close the drain when I'm doing WCs or switching my filter sock. Right now I have ball valve on both the return and the drain plus I have valves on the drain after the split to meter the flow to the fuge vs the skimmer. Is there any way to achieve this w/o rigid PVC?
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I already made the mistake of trying to do this panicked in the middle of the night. Way too stressful. This is a drip, not an emergency. It's not likely going away w/o repair but I can do it in an organized way. I much prefer working with a plan to operating in crisis mode
