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Pump recommendation

Can someone please recommend a pump for a 72 gallon tank? The pump will be used as a closed loop, running two phosban reactors (carbon and phosguard) as well as an external filter. The pump will be located under the tank. I would like it to be quiet.
 
you need very slow flow through a phosban reactor... so that could hurt you in the size pump you need for the loop?
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
They recommend the MJ606 to run the 2 PO4 reactors. As Billy suggested, you're going to want a faster pump for your CL than you're going to want running the PO4 reactors, unless your running the PO4s off of a manifold.

By CL are you looking for something to create additional flow in the tank, or is that just for feeding the filter & reactors?
 
I want/need flow in the tank. I will be teeing off of the return from the closed loop with a valve to the reactors and filter. Some what like a manifold. I am trying to prevent from having to many pumps.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
For that you'd do best with a pressure rated pump. I would think you'd want 2000gph+ for what you're looking to do with it. Not sure what pump is best in that size that's ultra quiet.
 
You need to figure out how much flow is needed to run into the filters and reactors and how much you want to run into your tank. Do you have a sump with a skimmer and return pump for it? You mentioned filters and I'm wondering what type of tank you have and what type of filter you are talking about. If you're looking to limit the number of pumps why don't you get a powerhead instead of the closed loop and run the reactors off the return?
 
I really don't want any powerheads in the tank. I do have a sump as well as a skimmer. I have a magnum 350 canister filter that I would like to remove the motor and just connect the input of the canister to the closed loop pump and have the output back into the tank (not the sump just in case the return pump from the sump ever fails or loses power). I really don't know if it's going to work but would like to give it a try. That being said, Phyl stated that I need a pressure rated pump. Does anyone know of a pressure rated pump that would fit my needs?
 
ricwilli said:
I have a magnum 350 canister filter that I would like to remove the motor and just connect the input of the canister to the closed loop pump and have the output back into the tank (not the sump just in case the return pump from the sump ever fails or loses power).

What do you hope to achieve with replacement of the Magnum 350 pump with some other? For 72gal tank, it already has substantial turnover (5x). Replacing its motor with stronger pump might not be that productive because a) stronger flow through filtering media might reduce its filtering capacity (biological filtration definitively and chemical filtration possibly as well) b) because of the filtering media and very small diameters of the pipes used you want be able to get the flow that the pumps are rated at.

Wouldn't it be better if you add additional closed loop. The benefits could be multiple:

1) By keeping magnum pump and its 350g/h flow, you will need only smaller pump which will be much quieter.
2) Two loops give you independent control and possibility of two different rates of flow over different media if you choose to add them in the future (phosban, nitrate, Ca etc. reactors)
3) Second loop will provide you with additional water intake and return in the tank, which will give you ability to control the water movement in the tank more easily and allow you to create more turbulent and less laminar flow (assuming that this is what you want for your corals)
 
I use the Magnum to clean the water of big things that float around in the water. Sometimes I run carbon in the it. I will be using a valve to control the flow through the Magnum. What I am trying to accomplish is to eliminate as many pumps/motors as possible. I only have one outlet where my tank is located. So far I have a 48" 5 bulb fixture, Mag 9.5, ASM G3 with 5000 sedra pump, Magnum 350, Rio 2500 and sometimes a smaller pump for the PO4. I am afraid that if I connect something else (like a close loop pump) the breaker will trip.
 
ricwilli said:
What I am trying to accomplish is to eliminate as many pumps/motors as possible. I only have one outlet where my tank is located. So far I have a 48" 5 bulb fixture, Mag 9.5, ASM G3 with 5000 sedra pump, Magnum 350, Rio 2500 and sometimes a smaller pump for the PO4. I am afraid that if I connect something else (like a close loop pump) the breaker will trip.

I know the feeling of hundreds of wires under the tank :) , but look at it this way: one larg pump doing the job of two smaller ones, basically must use the same energy (power) that those two smaller ones are using. For example mag 9.5 (950g/h) uses same 93W as two mag 5's (500g/h), 45W each. And, maybe, it can be even less efficient if you have constrained flow. As to how much you could plug in, see at how many Amps is your breaker rated, multiply it by 110 and you get the limit of how many wats you can run through it. Add wattage of all the things you have there and the difference will tell you how much you can plug more. 8)
That is, unless you had an idiot, like I did, who designed your wirings and conected the basement AND laundry room AND garage AND outdoor AND part of the kitchen to the same breaker :mad:
 
mladencovic said:
ricwilli said:
What I am trying to accomplish is to eliminate as many pumps/motors as possible. I only have one outlet where my tank is located. So far I have a 48" 5 bulb fixture, Mag 9.5, ASM G3 with 5000 sedra pump, Magnum 350, Rio 2500 and sometimes a smaller pump for the PO4. I am afraid that if I connect something else (like a close loop pump) the breaker will trip.

I know the feeling of hundreds of wires under the tank :) , but look at it this way: one larg pump doing the job of two smaller ones, basically must use the same energy (power) that those two smaller ones are using. For example mag 9.5 (950g/h) uses same 93W as two mag 5's (500g/h), 45W each. And, maybe, it can be even less efficient if you have constrained flow. As to how much you could plug in, see at how many Amps is your breaker rated, multiply it by 110 and you get the limit of how many wats you can run through it. Add wattage of all the things you have there and the difference will tell you how much you can plug more. 8)
That is, unless you had an idiot, like I did, who designed your wirings and conected the basement AND laundry room AND garage AND outdoor AND part of the kitchen to the same breaker :mad:

mladencovic, that is VALUBLE information (at least for me it is). I will definitely rethink my plan and will add the wattage of my equipment to see how much stuff I can connect to that outlet. I still want a close loop cause I don't want any powerhead in the tank. So I still need a pump. Just don't know which one.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
You wouldn't want your closed loop pump feeding anything else anyway (unless that was also going to return to the tank... otherwise it wouldn't be a closed loop). I thought you were referring to the sump return pump. The manifold is cool if you're going to be feeding these out of the sump and returning to the sump with the outflow of the filters/reactors.

My concern with Mags in general is that they add a LOT of heat into the tank. And since they're water cooled they heat the tank whether you run them in sump or out.
 
I love/hate my 350 canister filter. I find it to be one of the best "filters" on the market (cost/value) for micron filtering your water (especially after playing with a sand bed!

I have always had problems with the two units I have getting the pumps cleaned out good enough that over time "grit" wears down the shaft. They are also a pain in the you-know-what to get "primed" after cleaning.

I solved my problem by doing what he is suggesting and running it via an external pump. I created a "universal" port on my manifold to "plug in" different pieces of equipment when needed and now I love using it again.

My advice would be to not tie it into the closed loop but instead work on a tie in somewhere in the sump area. I also don't think this type of canister filter is a good choice for 24/7 operation either. The 350 has mostly been used by "pros" as diatom replacement filters and for fast carbon implementations in emergencies. I also don't think the build of these units is up to 24/7 use but that's only my opinion.

Carlo
 
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