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QT fast setup for hypo salinity

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nightmarepl

NJRC Member
hey guys, im trying to do hyposalinty to cure my tang and other fish from Ich, the tang isnt doing very well so need to be quick about this..
so my general idea is to buy a 20g tank, sponge filter, mini 50gph pump to move the water alittle, and heater...
now i was thinking of taking out 5g of water from my current tank and 5g of freshly made water adding them into the QT and taking out a big piece of live rock taking that and putting it into the QT aswell
then transfer over the fish let them adjust for a few hours and slowly bring down that salinity of the tank would this keep the bioload in check? without having to cycle the tank completely and having major ammonia jumps?
 
diana a

diana a

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
You need to use the largest tank you can to meet the needs of your largest fish. Other wise you will stress the fish(s). You can use the HOB filter with carbon and pump. It would be good to use the filter that you are going to put on your QT in your main tank all the time so that the filter has a large population of bacteria. So it is seeded with bacteria and ready to go when you need it for the QT. If you have a mini skimmer that would help some. You can place the live rock in the QT but remember that if copper/cupramine as well as other meds it will contaminate the rock permanently. Plenty of water changes to keep water quality good, and get a ammonia alert badge. The DT should remain fishless for 6 weeks to make sure that the ich has been removed from the display tank.
 
N

nightmarepl

NJRC Member
diana a said:
You need to use the largest tank you can to meet the needs of your largest fish. Other wise you will stress the fish(s). You can use the HOB filter with carbon and pump. It would be good to use the filter that you are going to put on your QT in your main tank all the time so that the filter has a large population of bacteria. So it is seeded with bacteria and ready to go when you need it for the QT. If you have a mini skimmer that would help some. You can place the live rock in the QT but remember that if copper/cupramine as well as other meds it will contaminate the rock permanently. Plenty of water changes to keep water quality good, and get a ammonia alert badge. The DT should remain fishless for 6 weeks to make sure that the ich has been removed from the display tank.
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yup thats the idea i have a media wrack in my DT that only has some matrix balls in it thats pretty much all the media i have.. so the live rock i have in my DT ill be removing eventually anyways to put something else in place so that rock wont be going back either way. so i was just gonna put a sponge filter in with an air pump that live rock i have and that should provide a decent amount of bioload worst comes to worst i see some seachem live bacteria to help it out alittle
 
H

horseplay

NJRC Member
Hypo does not cure ich. Even if it does, your existing tank still has ich so when you add the fish back they will get ich again.

The easiest way to cure ich is TTM. At the same time nuke your existing tank and start cycle again with live bacteria.
 
N

nightmarepl

NJRC Member
radiata said:
Agree, avoid the live rock, but strongly suggest you add a sponge filter and some commercially available live bacteria...
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would a hang on the back filter work or a basic sponde / air pump filter work well? i can get some biospira and add some water from my tank aswell that should seed the bioload
 
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