Redoing some plumbing check valve versus ball valve

[Junk2]

I have a check valve just upline from my return pump, but it's shot and no longer functioning (think they have springs in them so maybe it's worn out). Do most of you use check valves or just regular ball valves? Again, this is between the return pump to the main display tank so that in case of a power outage, it doesn't siphon water out of the DT to the sump. Thanks

 

[Trio91]

I'd go with something like this Georg Fischer Wye Check Valve to help prevent a back siphon

 

[ecam]

I would stay away from all valves. Plumb it right u don’t ever need siphon breaks. They will fail when u need them most !!!!

 

[ecam]

Raise the line of the return to a level where it won’t flood your tank and you should be good

 

[horseplay]

Agreed. I have mine slightly above the waterline.

 

[Junk2]

Sorry to sound stupid but when you say raise above the waterline, what do you mean? You don't mean have my 4 returns above the waterline do you?

 

[ecam]

It doesn’t need to be above the water line just slightly below it.

The key with that is when the return is off the watercabove your return will siphon back to sump. So knowing that. Raise it to the point where it won’t overflow the sump

 

[Junk2]

It doesn’t need to be above the water line just slightly below it.

The key with that is when the return is off the watercabove your return will siphon back to sump. So knowing that. Raise it to the point where it won’t overflow the sump

Oh sheesh, not sure why I never realized that. Thanks that makes sense.

 

[DangerDave]

I'd go with something like this Georg Fischer Wye Check Valve to help prevent a back siphon

This is the check valve I use, it's very well made and you can disassemble it for cleaning.

 

[DangerDave]

@Junk2 - Looking back at the posts, I think there is some confusion on your request. You are talking about the plumbing coming from your return pump to the aquarium correct?

 

[Junk2]

@Junk2 - Looking back at the posts, I think there is some confusion on your request. You are talking about the plumbing coming from your return pump to the aquarium correct?

That's right. My thought was to put it between my return pump and the main aquarium. One of the reasons is I have a T between my existing check valve and main tank because that's where my mixed water from the basement pumps into. This way the new water is going into the tank instead of the sump. I had the check valve there though mainly in case of a power outage that the water wouldn't flow from my tank returns into my sump.

 

[DangerDave]

The one @trio91 linked works great. No springs, it's activated by flow. It's a bit expensive for what it is, but worth every penny in my mind. Just being able to disassemble and clean is worth it's weight in coral (I haven't had to do this yet, it's been about 6 months)

 

[mikem]

I use these valves. If you ever have to work on the pump, just turn off the valve and unscrew the fitting. I don't trust anything else with moving parts. They always go bad at some point.

Cepex Ball Valve

 

[DangerDave]

I use these valves. If you ever have to work on the pump, just turn off the valve and unscrew the fitting. I don't trust anything else with moving parts. They always go bad at some point.

Cepex Ball Valve

Understood, but what would happen in the case of a power outage when you're not there? It depends on the set up. Without the check valve, my display would drain a few more inches from my return lines, and overflow my sump. I have to have it there, or I have to get a bigger sump. Which isn't a terrible idea

*another post of mine edited for terrible grammar...

 

[Mrx7899x]

Never used a check valve always made sure my sump was big enough and set my return lines so I would have minimal back siphon. One thing I do use a lot is unions I like to be able to take everything apart if I have to.

 

[mikem]

Understood, but what would happen in the case of a power outage when you're not there? It depends on the set up. Without the check valve, my display would drain a few more inches from my return lines, and overflow my sump. I have to have it there, or I have to get a bigger sump. Which isn't a terrible idea

*another post of mine edited for terrible grammar...

Like Edwin said. Your return line should (1) either be just below the water level in your tank or (2) drill a pinhole in the return line@ the water level but slightly pointing into the water.. The whole idea is to create a siphon break which will stop the water from draining back into the sump.

 

[mikem]

 

[mikem]

 

[mikem]

 

[mikem]

Between these siphon breaks and keeping your suction line about the level in this pic, you will have little to no water flowing back to your sump.
The less mechanical parts in a salt water tank, the less problems down the road. If a snail or something makes a check valve fail (at the worst time usually), can crash tank.