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Reduce Splashing in Sump

horseplay

NJRC Member
What is the best way to setup the drain pipe to minimize splashing in the sump? I have about 600gph going down a 1" drain. Right now I am running the drain below the water line without a filter sock. Any ideas?
 
What if you drilled holes in the side of the pipe below the water line. Kind of like the way a silencer works on a gun.
 
Make sure you don't have bends in your overflow lines. Mine have slats...like holes in them to as Matt suggested and filter socks.
 
This is quick and dirty, but it works.

3972528.jpg


If you can fit something like that in your sump, they are about $12 at Home Depot. Set it up so half of the horizontal opening is submerged, the other half above the water line. Run your drain into the top, then cut it so there is about a 1" gap between the drain and sumps water level. This will keep the splashing contained and reduce microbubbles all at once.

edit: Thats a 6" "T" btw, size is hard to judge!
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Here’s the bubble trap I made for the incoming pipe in the refugium. It was made using a 3” by 1 ½” sanitary tee with a 3” to 1 ½” coupling in one end and a short length of 3” pipe on the other end. The 1 ½ hole in the coupling was slightly widened using a rasp so that the 1 ½ pipe could be slid in or out. That 1 ½” pipe was slid in until it was a few inches from the end of the three inch pipe. This drawing hopefully makes it a little clearer. Water flow is marked in blue.

IMG_2248.jpg



And here is an actual picture of the Rube Goldberg contraption.

SplashGuard.jpg
 
Here’s the bubble trap I made for the incoming pipe in the refugium. It was made using a 3” by 1 ½” sanitary tee with a 3” to 1 ½” coupling in one end and a short length of 3” pipe on the other end. The 1 ½ hole in the coupling was slightly widened using a rasp so that the 1 ½ pipe could be slid in or out. That 1 ½” pipe was slid in until it was a few inches from the end of the three inch pipe. This drawing hopefully makes it a little clearer. Water flow is marked in blue.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp271/psh54/Tale%20of%20the%20Tank/IMG_2248.jpg[/im g]




And here is an actual picture of the Rube Goldberg contraption.

[img]http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp271/psh54/Tale%20of%20the%20Tank/SplashGuard.jpg[/i mg][/QUOTE]

Much more thought out, and id have to say a better design than my crude attempt at reducing salt creep lol. Good work!
 

horseplay

NJRC Member
Paul I know if someone coming up with something it has to be you. Going to try this out.

Do you have the bottom of the 3" pipe sitting on the bottom of the tank or the rocks? It doesn't have to be plugged, right?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
My bottom was open. However, it was more or less buried in sand with some rock around it. Closed would work as well. I also drilled a couple holes in the reducing coupling to allow air to escape. Oh, and obviously my drain lines coming down from the DT are 1 1/2 pipe. You will need to adjust as per whatever you have on your tank.
 
not sure if your tank is setup like mine but i had a major splashing problem with salt creep and could not get it to stop no matter what. i then got a felt (i think) filter sock and i just keep it on the drain pipe with a rubberband and its a lot more quiet and there's no splashing or salt creep anymore. i just have to change it out every couple of days which gets kinda annoying.
 
not sure if your tank is setup like mine but i had a major splashing problem with salt creep and could not get it to stop no matter what. i then got a felt (i think) filter sock and i just keep it on the drain pipe with a rubberband and its a lot more quiet and there's no splashing or salt creep anymore. i just have to change it out every couple of days which gets kinda annoying.

Does it get clogged quickly? Maybe cut a few holes on the bottom?

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

Two good answers when combined. I used to use socks but got tired of the routine, changing mine every 3 days to keep it from overflowing and making a bigger mess. I wasnt using socks to "polish" the water like some do, so i didnt care if i trimmed a few pieces off the bottom to allow water to escape. That was a good setup!
 

horseplay

NJRC Member
I think the goal is to get a very coarse material so the small particles will escape but the air bubbles can't. If you cut a few holes in the bottom then some water/air bubbles will escape then surface, causing turbulance at the surface. I have used 200 micron socks before it takes a long time to clog but pods got trapped in there.
 
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